I am putting a 91 T-Bird 5.0 & AOD into my 71 F100 using a RJM EFI harness.

It has been 3-4 years since I pulled the powertrain out of the T-Bird, so my recollection of somethings is a bit hazy now.

1. Accelerator linkage. Solved

2. Accel linkage attachment to AOD. Solved, I think
3. Fuel rail mounting to lower intake. Solved.

4. Pass side, far back intake bolt. Solved.

5. I was cleaning the T-Bird intake "stuff" - air box, tube, clamps, etc. While I was cleaning the metal sleeve the MAF sensor mounts on (I think), a rubber O-ring fell out. This sleeve has a metal screen at one end where it fastens to the air box. I know that all sounds kind of vague, but anyone know where this O-ring goes? I noticed a hole with either a thread inside or some other type of "ribbed" surface on this aluminum sleeve, but not sure how the O-ring could fit into passage.

6. Ford stock fuel regulator, Solved.

Most other things have seemed to go okay. Have been able to figure things out over time, but stuck on a couple issues.

Thanks for any help.

 

I am also in the process of doing a vry similar swap.

The only advice I can give you for the accelerator linkage and TV cable is to get

B.C. Broncos - Early Bronco EFI Fuel Parts and Kits - B. C. Broncos llc - products new home - EFI Auto Kickdown cable for AOD transmission

and

B.C. Broncos - Early Bronco EFI Fuel Parts and Kits - B. C. Broncos llc - products new home - EFI Throttle Cable and Bracket

The only complaint I have about this kit is that the cables are non-adjustable. This can easily be fixed by modifying connectors.

BCBroncos has a ton of information and most of the parts you will be looking or to do this swap. They do these swaps all the time in the old Broncos.
I ended up cutting and rewelding the gas pedal so that it would work for my cable. Had to drill a hole through the firewall also. Still am not completely satisfied with this either though because the pedal is pushed to easily and sometimes doesn't return. Spring pressure needs to be stiffer I think.

For the column shift linkage I flipped the shift arm which was very easy. I ended up kind of rigging up some shift linkage with a straight piece of metal. It works but I need to change it. I don't know how I'm going to do it without spending a bunch of money. You can get the cable adapter kit form Ididit for around $150. I also am thinking about switching to a floor shift which cost about the same. I really like the Lokar Nostalgia floor shifters which run around $200.

One thing to make sure you do is get the TV cable set at the correct pressue as this COULD take your transmission out. I am in the midst of getting my motor running and haven't got to that point yet.

As far as the o-ring goes. The only thing I can think of is that it might be the o-ring that seals MAF when installing it to the tube. How it fell out of there.... no idea.

The fuel pressure regulator should be replaceable. Normally they are held on by a snap ring. At least mine was.

I also bought my wiring harness from RJM. I'm having troubles with getting my motor running. My swap has been a long frustrating process because of numerous reasons but I soon hope to be driving this truck again. I have a build thread somewhere on here.

Hopefully some of that helped. Feel free to message me if you have anymore questions as maybe we could bounce ideas off of each other!

Brandon

 

FYI.. The upper intake portion on that motor is reversable so you can have the throttlebody and associated linkages on the drivers side if it would make cable connections and air intake plumbing easier.

FPR is not servicable, if it leaks replace it.

FPR to fuel rail is 30-40 in-lbs, fuel rail to intake is 12-15ft/lbs

 

Thanks for the replies.

I bought a used Mustang accel cable, for about the same money of the B.C. Bronco parts. turns out my T-Bird TV cable is salvageable.

I am going to hit the yards and buy a 70's era auto column shifter rod, modify it if needed to hook up to the AOD shifter arm. Only reason it may need modified is I didn't flip the shifter arm that pokes through the driver side of the trans. I prefer not to flip it, as I'd have to drop the pan, the valve body, and chase down that grommet. Last time I had to do that it took forever to find a place that would sell me just a groomet, everywhere else said I had to buy a complete rebuild kit to get that part.

I am using a RJM wiring harness. A couple of the connections don't seem right, too short, wrong plug end for the sensors that should go in my engine. Missing the A/C connection - I told them when I ordered I wanted a/c, my instruction sheet shows the wiring, yet I don't have it. The O2 sensor connections require a different type of sensor than the almost new ones that came with my T-Bird donor motor.

I know all about the shifter pressure. I let a 351W "expert" work on the truck when it had the W motor and the previous AOD. He did not put it back right and I didn't think to check until after 3 miles I realized it was shifting too soft. Anyone need a core AOD?

 

It's nice that you can flip the intake around but I found that my intake worked best pointed toward the passenger side. There was just to much stuff going on on the drivers side. The BCBroncos kit is set up on the passengers side also.

Good luck with that wiring harness. Although hsi work is top notch and the harness is great. Getting a hold of any support is near impossible. I bought the universal kit and it had everything I needed, pretty straight forward. Good luck with the pigtails.

 

I have been working on this, slowly.

1. EGR block off plates? I see lots of places make them. My T-bird based 5.0 has an slightly off center upper bolt, Kinda of an upside down & backwards "L" shape is needed - Mine is on the back of the TB, guess that's where they all mount? Maybe I will build my own, based off the EGR I pulled. I think I may have a unique style due to the T-Bird powerplant. Q: Are you all using a Gasket or RTV to seal these?

2. Gas pedal vs Throttle cable. Anyone got ideas to share for cheap/easy solutions? Maybe a 90's era Ford gas pedal will work?

3. How does the stock Ford "Kickdown" cable hook up to the throttle body?

4. I am going to try and mod a 73-79 auto shifter linkage to work with my AOD and 70's era auto column. Comments or suggestions on this?

5. Alternator: My RJM harness has a 1 wire alternator hookup. My 1991 T-bird donor has the older style alt. Do I need to bite the bullet and buy a 1 wire, or is there an easy fix? Mounting the alt. I guess I will use the old style Ford mount, since I am not using the smog pump. Has anyone modified the Ford cast aluminum Alt/Smog mount to look halfway decent?

6. Air cleaner. Thinking I will have to make a mounting bracket to position the MAF sensor where I need it on the inner fender and use a K&N style cone. I would prefer to use something more stock looking, but not sure what other way to go. any other ideas?

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes make your own from any sheet metal you can find.. doesn't have to be heavy, and seal it with a couple stock gaskets

Get the idea that this is a kickdown cable out of your head right away. This cable has a tension adjuster on it that has to be anchored and then preload between the adjuster and cable end that attaches to the TB adjusted to spec. Failure to set this up correctly could mean instant death to the transmission so if you're using a mustang cable you need to get a factory retainer bracket and cut/modify/weld it to work with your setup.


The worst place to attach a cone filter is directly on the MAF meter, it disrupts airflow over the sensor which usually impacts idle quality and fuel milage. Visit the junkyard and salvage the stock airbox and intake plumbing form one of the V8 cars or a MAF truck if you can find one, usually the MAF meter is just suspended between the airbox and tubing with rubber flex joints.. which is more than adequate.

 

I put kickdown in quotes as even though you and I know it is not a kickdown, most people call it a kickdown anyway. http://www.lokar.com/downloads/pdf-i...aod_kd_kit.pdf

Anyhow, my TV cable is off the 91 T-Bird donor, not sure what happened to the stock mounting bracket. Guess I'll have to come up with one.

On the donor T-bird, the MAF connected to the air box, with a rubber coupling that is something like 1/2" long. I still have all those T-Bird rubber air intake parts. Maybe it is different on Mustangs, VC, trucks. I have to see what I find when I hit the salvage yard.

 

What I should have said was don't put an open conical filter right on the end of a MAF meter, it's OK to have a closed filter or airbox right there because it's sheltered from engine fan wash and the relatively hot engine bay air.

 

I would prefer to use a Ford air filter box and rectangular stock looking filter setup. but I think the easiest way would be to do a cone filter.

I am open to suggestions on how to get a Ford setup (Crown Vic, Mustang, or whatever), or some other manuf. airbox to work. I have thought about trying to use the place where the battery normally sits, front pass side inner fender. I would have to relocating the battery to the opposite inner fender and move the bottle jack. Or put the battery under the bed.

I bought a section of flexible intake tube from a CV. It is about 2-3" longer than the T-Bird tube. Good thing about the T-Bird tube is that it has a rigid section with a slight "S" curve to help clear the oil fill. The CV tube is much more flexible. May be able to join the two and engineer something.

Might be able to mount an air filter box vertically below the battery, Using a setup like this one, with either a cone of factory airbox. EFI 5.0 install

I have been trying to find pics of possible solutions, many people seem to just use a cone filter on the end (page 4, last pic). Mustangs Plus - Tech Articles - Project EFI GT (Page 4)

Appears this person made a steel cylinder to shield the filter from turbulence ("After" photos, 3rd pic down). Rosehillperformanceparts

 

That is part of the reason I mentioned earlier that the upper intake is reversible, if there is space on the drivers side for an airbox then just flip it around and save yourself the extra work of relocating the battery. As for an airbox I'd suggest you look at trucks and any year that has a MAF meter inline with airbox, if the rubber couplers are still there you're good and if not some rubber plumbing collars should do the trick.

 

I ignored this idea the first time, because as bsiebert mentions, there is too much stuff to fight or re-engineer by flipping the intake in some setups, either due to the layout of the project vehicle and/or the donor engine. But either you are not reading and understanding what I'm saying, or maybe you are unaware of why your suggestion won't work in instances like mine.

I guess you had sucess doing it your way in the past. You probably had an earlier Mustang intake or something else with that has a short, straight TB/intake mount.

I may not have been clear, but I am using a 1991 T-bird 5.0 complete with a 91 T-bird upper intake. This intake is like the 94-95 mustang intake, in that the TBI mounting portion is both longer and rotated 45 degrees toward the front of the car. See this link, page 5, last photo. http://oldfuelinjection.com/Inject_your_horse2.pdf

Due to the layout of my truck, it is physically possible, but not practical to flip the T-Bird intake.

I have the old T-Bird airbox stuff, so I will investigate what it will take to make that work. Or use a BC Bronco cone filter and build a metal shroud to reduce turbulence like in the link I posted previously.

 

Sorry.. I am aware of that issue but I didn't think Ford made them as far back as '91, I figured you were safe with that vintage but you never know with these Fords.

 

No problem Conanski. Thanks for the replies. What doesn't help me might help someone else reading the thread.

 

1. How does the stock Ford TV or "Kickdown" cable hook up to the throttle body? Photos would be great. My local junkyard these things always seem to get mangled for whatever reason, so not able get a good idea how to mount it.

2. Torque for Throttle body to upper intake? 18-25 ft lbs? Just a guess, can't find it in my manual.

3. Anyone know the bolt size for mounting EGR or EGR blockoff? I am doing the block off, but actual size/pitch would be the same, just length would be shorter. My fastener stash doesn't have anything that fits.

4. Probably going to use a 80+ truck gas pedal, looks like it could work. Mustang pedals or so thin. The truck pedal is plenty wide, though may be a bit short. Maybe I'll have to just do some hunting or spring for a 69-70 mustang pedal.

5. I found a mustang blog where someone mounted their A/C compressor in the smog pump position of the 5.0 cast aluminum alternator/smog pump mounting bracket. They did switching to a smaller compressor, and a few small mods. Here is a link, see October 10 & 18, 2011 entries: http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/ Wish there was pics of it.