Frame painting

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06-28-2012, 02:24 PM

AndrewWV

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Frame painting

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9; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> Ok, I think I'm finally to a point where I can at least see the end of the bunk bed project I've been working on (for far longer than I planned) this summer and I'm beginning to think a little more seriously about the next major project I want to tackle while the weather is favorable.

I have a 2001 Excursion that has a fair amount of surface rust on the frame and around the running board mounts underneath. I want to clean the rust, paint the frame and axles, and also attach a hitch receiver I picked up from a local yard.

I've seen a number of threads around FTE where people suggest lifting the body off the frame to sand blast and paint it. I'd love to be able to do that, but it seems way over my head and perhaps I should just try to find a way to hit as many places as I can reach working under the vehicle.

I expect separating the frame requires a workshop with a pretty heavy duty lift, but then I see pictures of truck frames sitting outside ordinary garages or in gravel driveways. So, is it easier to pull the frame than I envision it to be or should I stick with crawling under the X and getting what I can reach?

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07-03-2012, 08:58 AM

Yeehaw1

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Lifting the body isn't exactly hard, but it isn't easy either... Me, My old man, and a buddy of mine can move beds around by hand pretty easy, cabs get jacked up with a 4ton floor jack (or a ?ton bottle jack if the floor jack won't do it) then just block it up with 6x6's, should be able to lift it a corner at a time... but there will probably be a ton of wires attached to the body on something that new (newest thing i work on is Dad's 01 F350 7.3 powerstroke... and it's only had 2 things done to it, some wire that came loose, and I've had the front bumper off once, trying to figure out how the brushguard i got him mounts...)

Personally, I'd look and see how many wires/bolts there are to hang up on if you lift the body, and then decided if it's really worth the trouble, you can get most of the frame by just crawlin under...

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07-03-2012, 09:46 AM

AndrewWV

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Yeehaw1

Personally, I'd look and see how many wires/bolts there are to hang up on if you lift the body, and then decided if it's really worth the trouble, you can get most of the frame by just crawlin under...

Since it's just me doing the work, I figure that's what I'll end up doing. I would like to POR-15 the whole frame, axles, etc. but I'm concerned that if I can't reach something, water might get under the paint. Because of that, I have been considering using Black Star instead. I don't think it's as durable, but it seems like it would be easier to work with and simple enough to reapply if any rust comes back.

Mounting the hitch receiver could be tricky too. It looks like I have to drop the fuel tank to bolt it to the frame.

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07-07-2012, 06:09 AM

Oldtrucknut7077

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Rust encapsulator is good to go over the frame with. We did that to the frame on SD then coated it the frame with frame paint.

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07-10-2012, 09:24 PM

AndrewWV

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldtrucknut7077

Rust encapsulator is good to go over the frame with. We did that to the frame on SD then coated it the frame with frame paint.

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Black Star is a rust converter that was mentioned on the Excursion forum. I still think POR-15 is my preference, but time and money might change that. I've got an alternator and a ball joint that probably need attention sooner, and neither time nor money grow on trees.

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07-11-2012, 03:29 AM

Yeehaw1

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I've heard that POR-15 doesn't work too... unless you use 2 coats, and a UV resistant top coat...

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07-11-2012, 05:08 AM

AndrewWV

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Yeehaw1

I've heard that POR-15 doesn't work too... unless you use 2 coats, and a UV resistant top coat...

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Yeah, it is pretty specific. After removing any loose rust you have to use their Marine Clean followed by Metal Ready, then at least two coats of POR-15. After that you can paint over it with any paint. Because its the frame I was looking at their 2-part top coat. Altogether, its pretty expensive, but I have friends who really recommend it.

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Frame painting

Frame painting

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