Common Mods
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04-29-2012, 06:34 AM
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Common Mods
Hi all. I found it hard for awhile deciphering what our US bros were talking about. I thought I'd start a list of the common mods that I'd heard of. Can others please add stuff to the list. The aim is to let new comers catch on quickly to F250 lingo.
6637: based on the Baldwin filter number, it is a filter pod which replaces the stock filter. It can be run naked, but most now put a washable fabric cover over it called a 'Pete's cover'
50 cent mod: some model's plug connectors inside the heads have clips that don't clip. Our US Bros grind off 2 quarter pieces and slide them into the plugs to force the clips down to keep them plugged in tightly. In Oz, anyone needing to do this could do it with 40 cents - as in 2 by 20 cent coins.
Hutch mod and Harpoon mod: mods inside the fuel tank to stop the foamy fuel oil being returned to the tank come back near the fuel pick up.
Max A/C assist: F250's run coolant through the cab heater even when the a/c is on. There is a mod where a vacuum actuated tap turns off the coolant to the cab heater when the HVAC control is turned to max a/c. The higher spec US models and Expedition have this as standard.
AIH delete: The Air Intake Heater (AIH) is an electrical element, like an old kettle element, designed to heat the charge air in extremely cold conditions when prolonged idle is used. The AIH caused about a 20% restriction on the inlet. The AIH is obviously not used/required in temperate climates.
CCV mod: The Crank Case Ventilation takes air from on top of the oil in the crank case, which is pressured by combustion blow by, and emitted through the 'dog house' shaped box (called the dog house) at the rear of the left head. In stock form this oily smoke is routed into the air intake between the filter and the turbo. The smoke ends up leaving an oily film in the IC pipes, boots and IC itself. The CCV mod can filter this oily smoke through a 'catch can' and either return the filtered smoke to the inlet, or vent to the atmosphere. Whatever is done IT IS CRUCIAL that the CCV pressure coming out IS NOT RESTRICTED (otherwise a seal somewhere will blow, usually the EBPV seal on the turbo pedestal);
EBPV delete: Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - is used with the AIH to retain heat in the engine. However the EBPV can also be used by tuners in a DECEL tune to be an exhaust brake. The EBPV is a butterfly in the turbo outlet and causes a restriction when not is use. For a free flowing exhaust and lower Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) the EBPV can be removed. This can be done cheaply by modifying the stock turbo outlet - rip out the EBPV and weld up the holes, rip out the EBPV actuator rod from the turbo pedestal, cut a thread and insert a plug. Or you can buy a turbo outlet without the EBPV - called a high-flow outlet, and a 'delete pedestal' which has no EBPV actuator built-in and replace the stock item/s.
Sticks: means fuel injectors. Another popular mod is to upgrade the fuel injectors. After market injectors can be 'single shot', rated as number/number or hybrids. Once you go to big injectors then you are in 'big oil' territory where you will need a larger capacity High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) to move enough fuel. The stock HPOP will run Stage 2 injectors.
38R: is a bolt on bigger turbo charger - it has ball bearings on the turbo shaft and larger diameter turbo and inlet.
IC boot kit: Inter-Cooler boot kit - there are 6 boots connecting the 1) inlet turbo to the IC pipe, 2) the IC pipe to the IC inlet, 3) IC outlet to the IC return pipe, 4) IC return pipe to the turbo spider, 5&6) turbo spider to the inlet manifolds. The stock Ford connectors are flexible rubber bellowed hoses. After market kits are much thicker and sturdier - they don't balloon under pressure.
Plenum inserts: the stock inlet manifolds are pressed metal. There is a chance that over-tightening the clamps will collapse the thin metal manifold inlet pipe. The plenum inserts are billet machined donuts with a collar which slide into the stock inlet hole.
Turbo back: The full exhaust system from the turbo outlet back. Larger diameter pipes from the turbo outlet down to below the cab floor are notoriously hard to fit.
DP Tuner: An engine management system re-programming modification that allows pre-set 'tunes' to be selected for the engine management computer. Changes can be made to fueling, transmission shift points, and throttle response based on the various sensors on the engine and transmission. The DP Tuner is a popular brand of engine management re-programming that allows the customer to order many different engine tunes and change them on the fly.
Superchips: A simple engine management re-programmer which allows the unit to be connected and locked to a particular vehicle. The Superchips handset stores and deletes the stock tune from the vehicle and replaces it with one of a set of tunes based on yes/no answers. The vehicle can be returned to stock. The Superchips also allows fault codes to be read and deleted.
HPX: High Pressure Oil (X) cross over - a pipe linking the high pressure oil galleries mid-head to each other to equalise the high pressure oil pressures in each of the heads.
FRX: Fuel Rail X-over or Regulated Fuel Return - pipes linking the fuel passages at the end of each head back to the fuel return path via a pre-set pressure regulated valve - allows air/foamy fuel trapped in the heads to escape and get back to the tank rather than being forced through the injectors. Better for the injectors and smoother running engine are the claimed advantages.
OCR: Overboost Code Regulator - only allows up to a set maximum pressure into the MAP sensor - stops the overboost fault code, de-fuel, and the Check Engine Light coming on for the overboost situation.
Zoodad mod: Cutting an air hole in the radiator shroud right in front of the air filter spout. See: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/51...ntal-rain.html
foil delete: Some trucks have a foil coating on the IC tube closest to the air filter. Scrape the foil off and polish up the IC tube and you have done the 'foil delete' mod.
billet plenums: stronger inlet manifold replacements for the thin pressed metal stock inlets. Billet plenums don't need the strengthening plenum inserts which are recommended when using aftermarket IC boots and standard inlet manifolds. As the plenum inserts fit inside the standard opening they do cause a restriction. Billet manifolds mean you get the increased strength without the small restriction of plenum inserts.
6637: based on the Baldwin filter number, it is a filter pod which replaces the stock filter. It can be run naked, but most now put a washable fabric cover over it called a 'Pete's cover'
50 cent mod: some model's plug connectors inside the heads have clips that don't clip. Our US Bros grind off 2 quarter pieces and slide them into the plugs to force the clips down to keep them plugged in tightly. In Oz, anyone needing to do this could do it with 40 cents - as in 2 by 20 cent coins.
Hutch mod and Harpoon mod: mods inside the fuel tank to stop the foamy fuel oil being returned to the tank come back near the fuel pick up.
Max A/C assist: F250's run coolant through the cab heater even when the a/c is on. There is a mod where a vacuum actuated tap turns off the coolant to the cab heater when the HVAC control is turned to max a/c. The higher spec US models and Expedition have this as standard.
AIH delete: The Air Intake Heater (AIH) is an electrical element, like an old kettle element, designed to heat the charge air in extremely cold conditions when prolonged idle is used. The AIH caused about a 20% restriction on the inlet. The AIH is obviously not used/required in temperate climates.
CCV mod: The Crank Case Ventilation takes air from on top of the oil in the crank case, which is pressured by combustion blow by, and emitted through the 'dog house' shaped box (called the dog house) at the rear of the left head. In stock form this oily smoke is routed into the air intake between the filter and the turbo. The smoke ends up leaving an oily film in the IC pipes, boots and IC itself. The CCV mod can filter this oily smoke through a 'catch can' and either return the filtered smoke to the inlet, or vent to the atmosphere. Whatever is done IT IS CRUCIAL that the CCV pressure coming out IS NOT RESTRICTED (otherwise a seal somewhere will blow, usually the EBPV seal on the turbo pedestal);
EBPV delete: Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - is used with the AIH to retain heat in the engine. However the EBPV can also be used by tuners in a DECEL tune to be an exhaust brake. The EBPV is a butterfly in the turbo outlet and causes a restriction when not is use. For a free flowing exhaust and lower Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) the EBPV can be removed. This can be done cheaply by modifying the stock turbo outlet - rip out the EBPV and weld up the holes, rip out the EBPV actuator rod from the turbo pedestal, cut a thread and insert a plug. Or you can buy a turbo outlet without the EBPV - called a high-flow outlet, and a 'delete pedestal' which has no EBPV actuator built-in and replace the stock item/s.
Sticks: means fuel injectors. Another popular mod is to upgrade the fuel injectors. After market injectors can be 'single shot', rated as number/number or hybrids. Once you go to big injectors then you are in 'big oil' territory where you will need a larger capacity High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) to move enough fuel. The stock HPOP will run Stage 2 injectors.
38R: is a bolt on bigger turbo charger - it has ball bearings on the turbo shaft and larger diameter turbo and inlet.
IC boot kit: Inter-Cooler boot kit - there are 6 boots connecting the 1) inlet turbo to the IC pipe, 2) the IC pipe to the IC inlet, 3) IC outlet to the IC return pipe, 4) IC return pipe to the turbo spider, 5&6) turbo spider to the inlet manifolds. The stock Ford connectors are flexible rubber bellowed hoses. After market kits are much thicker and sturdier - they don't balloon under pressure.
Plenum inserts: the stock inlet manifolds are pressed metal. There is a chance that over-tightening the clamps will collapse the thin metal manifold inlet pipe. The plenum inserts are billet machined donuts with a collar which slide into the stock inlet hole.
Turbo back: The full exhaust system from the turbo outlet back. Larger diameter pipes from the turbo outlet down to below the cab floor are notoriously hard to fit.
DP Tuner: An engine management system re-programming modification that allows pre-set 'tunes' to be selected for the engine management computer. Changes can be made to fueling, transmission shift points, and throttle response based on the various sensors on the engine and transmission. The DP Tuner is a popular brand of engine management re-programming that allows the customer to order many different engine tunes and change them on the fly.
Superchips: A simple engine management re-programmer which allows the unit to be connected and locked to a particular vehicle. The Superchips handset stores and deletes the stock tune from the vehicle and replaces it with one of a set of tunes based on yes/no answers. The vehicle can be returned to stock. The Superchips also allows fault codes to be read and deleted.
HPX: High Pressure Oil (X) cross over - a pipe linking the high pressure oil galleries mid-head to each other to equalise the high pressure oil pressures in each of the heads.
FRX: Fuel Rail X-over or Regulated Fuel Return - pipes linking the fuel passages at the end of each head back to the fuel return path via a pre-set pressure regulated valve - allows air/foamy fuel trapped in the heads to escape and get back to the tank rather than being forced through the injectors. Better for the injectors and smoother running engine are the claimed advantages.
OCR: Overboost Code Regulator - only allows up to a set maximum pressure into the MAP sensor - stops the overboost fault code, de-fuel, and the Check Engine Light coming on for the overboost situation.
Zoodad mod: Cutting an air hole in the radiator shroud right in front of the air filter spout. See: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/51...ntal-rain.html
foil delete: Some trucks have a foil coating on the IC tube closest to the air filter. Scrape the foil off and polish up the IC tube and you have done the 'foil delete' mod.
billet plenums: stronger inlet manifold replacements for the thin pressed metal stock inlets. Billet plenums don't need the strengthening plenum inserts which are recommended when using aftermarket IC boots and standard inlet manifolds. As the plenum inserts fit inside the standard opening they do cause a restriction. Billet manifolds mean you get the increased strength without the small restriction of plenum inserts.
Last edited by SSSimon; 04-30-2012 at 08:21 AM. Reason: add more, add more, etc
#2
04-29-2012, 06:38 AM
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04-29-2012, 06:42 AM
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#4
07-29-2012, 07:28 AM
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Another mod:
Manual Hubs Replacements for the Ford 'Automatic' hubs. Often drivers don't find out their automatically locking hubs, which work via pneumatic pressure, DON'T lock only when they get bogged. Automatic hubs have the settings 'auto' & 'lock'. Manual hubs, sometimes called Free Wheeling hubs, have the settings 'free' and 'lock' and replace the factory hubs. SRW F250's use a 30 spline hub, popular brands are Warn and Mile Maker. As the name suggests, you have to get out and engage/disengage manual hubs, however the advantage is that the hub is positively engaged as soon as the vehicle is moved. With automatic hubs in the 'auto' setting the vehicle and wheels have to be moving and it can take quite a few wheel revolutions for both of the hubs to fully engage - which is also plenty of time to get bogged. One other benefit of manual hubs is that you can use 4WD low in 2WD by NOT locking the front hubs.
Manual Hubs Replacements for the Ford 'Automatic' hubs. Often drivers don't find out their automatically locking hubs, which work via pneumatic pressure, DON'T lock only when they get bogged. Automatic hubs have the settings 'auto' & 'lock'. Manual hubs, sometimes called Free Wheeling hubs, have the settings 'free' and 'lock' and replace the factory hubs. SRW F250's use a 30 spline hub, popular brands are Warn and Mile Maker. As the name suggests, you have to get out and engage/disengage manual hubs, however the advantage is that the hub is positively engaged as soon as the vehicle is moved. With automatic hubs in the 'auto' setting the vehicle and wheels have to be moving and it can take quite a few wheel revolutions for both of the hubs to fully engage - which is also plenty of time to get bogged. One other benefit of manual hubs is that you can use 4WD low in 2WD by NOT locking the front hubs.
#5
07-29-2012, 09:42 PM
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MORE MODS
Hi all. I found it hard for awhile deciphering what our US bros were talking about. I thought I'd start a list of the common mods that I'd heard of. Can others please add stuff to the list. The aim is to let new comers catch on quickly to F250 lingo.
6637: based on the Baldwin filter number, it is a filter pod which replaces the stock filter. It can be run naked, but most now put a washable fabric cover over it called a 'Pete's cover'
50 cent mod: some model's plug connectors inside the heads have clips that don't clip. Our US Bros grind off 2 quarter pieces and slide them into the plugs to force the clips down to keep them plugged in tightly. In Oz, anyone needing to do this could do it with 40 cents - as in 2 by 20 cent coins.
Hutch mod and Harpoon mod: mods inside the fuel tank to stop the foamy fuel oil being returned to the tank come back near the fuel pick up.
Max A/C assist: F250's run coolant through the cab heater even when the a/c is on. There is a mod where a vacuum actuated tap turns off the coolant to the cab heater when the HVAC control is turned to max a/c. The higher spec US models and Expedition have this as standard.
AIH delete: The Air Intake Heater (AIH) is an electrical element, like an old kettle element, designed to heat the charge air in extremely cold conditions when prolonged idle is used. The AIH caused about a 20% restriction on the inlet. The AIH is obviously not used/required in temperate climates.
CCV mod: The Crank Case Ventilation takes air from on top of the oil in the crank case, which is pressured by combustion blow by, and emitted through the 'dog house' shaped box (called the dog house) at the rear of the left head. In stock form this oily smoke is routed into the air intake between the filter and the turbo. The smoke ends up leaving an oily film in the IC pipes, boots and IC itself. The CCV mod can filter this oily smoke through a 'catch can' and either return the filtered smoke to the inlet, or vent to the atmosphere. Whatever is done IT IS CRUCIAL that the CCV pressure coming out IS NOT RESTRICTED (otherwise a seal somewhere will blow, usually the EBPV seal on the turbo pedestal);
EBPV delete: Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - is used with the AIH to retain heat in the engine. However the EBPV can also be used by tuners in a DECEL tune to be an exhaust brake. The EBPV is a butterfly in the turbo outlet and causes a restriction when not is use. For a free flowing exhaust and lower Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) the EBPV can be removed. This can be done cheaply by modifying the stock turbo outlet - rip out the EBPV and weld up the holes, rip out the EBPV actuator rod from the turbo pedestal, cut a thread and insert a plug. Or you can buy a turbo outlet without the EBPV - called a high-flow outlet, and a 'delete pedestal' which has no EBPV actuator built-in and replace the stock item/s.
Sticks: means fuel injectors. Another popular mod is to upgrade the fuel injectors. After market injectors can be 'single shot', rated as number/number or hybrids. Once you go to big injectors then you are in 'big oil' territory where you will need a larger capacity High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) to move enough fuel. The stock HPOP will run Stage 2 injectors.
38R: is a bolt on bigger turbo charger - it has ball bearings on the turbo shaft and larger diameter turbo and inlet.
IC boot kit: Inter-Cooler boot kit - there are 6 boots connecting the 1) inlet turbo to the IC pipe, 2) the IC pipe to the IC inlet, 3) IC outlet to the IC return pipe, 4) IC return pipe to the turbo spider, 5&6) turbo spider to the inlet manifolds. The stock Ford connectors are flexible rubber bellowed hoses. After market kits are much thicker and sturdier - they don't balloon under pressure.
Plenum inserts: the stock inlet manifolds are pressed metal. There is a chance that over-tightening the clamps will collapse the thin metal manifold inlet pipe. The plenum inserts are billet machined donuts with a collar which slide into the stock inlet hole.
Turbo back: The full exhaust system from the turbo outlet back. Larger diameter pipes from the turbo outlet down to below the cab floor are notoriously hard to fit.
DP Tuner: An engine management system re-programming modification that allows pre-set 'tunes' to be selected for the engine management computer. Changes can be made to fueling, transmission shift points, and throttle response based on the various sensors on the engine and transmission. The DP Tuner is a popular brand of engine management re-programming that allows the customer to order many different engine tunes and change them on the fly.
Superchips: A simple engine management re-programmer which allows the unit to be connected and locked to a particular vehicle. The Superchips handset stores and deletes the stock tune from the vehicle and replaces it with one of a set of tunes based on yes/no answers. The vehicle can be returned to stock. The Superchips also allows fault codes to be read and deleted.
HPX: High Pressure Oil (X) cross over - a pipe linking the high pressure oil galleries mid-head to each other to equalise the high pressure oil pressures in each of the heads.
FRX: Fuel Rail X-over or Regulated Fuel Return - pipes linking the fuel passages at the end of each head back to the fuel return path via a pre-set pressure regulated valve - allows air/foamy fuel trapped in the heads to escape and get back to the tank rather than being forced through the injectors. Better for the injectors and smoother running engine are the claimed advantages.
OCR: Overboost Code Regulator - only allows up to a set maximum pressure into the MAP sensor - stops the overboost fault code, de-fuel, and the Check Engine Light coming on for the overboost situation.
Zoodad mod: Cutting an air hole in the radiator shroud right in front of the air filter spout. See: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/51...ntal-rain.html
foil delete: Some trucks have a foil coating on the IC tube closest to the air filter. Scrape the foil off and polish up the IC tube and you have done the 'foil delete' mod.
billet plenums: stronger inlet manifold replacements for the thin pressed metal stock inlets. Billet plenums don't need the strengthening plenum inserts which are recommended when using aftermarket IC boots and standard inlet manifolds. As the plenum inserts fit inside the standard opening they do cause a restriction. Billet manifolds mean you get the increased strength without the small restriction of plenum inserts.
6637: based on the Baldwin filter number, it is a filter pod which replaces the stock filter. It can be run naked, but most now put a washable fabric cover over it called a 'Pete's cover'
50 cent mod: some model's plug connectors inside the heads have clips that don't clip. Our US Bros grind off 2 quarter pieces and slide them into the plugs to force the clips down to keep them plugged in tightly. In Oz, anyone needing to do this could do it with 40 cents - as in 2 by 20 cent coins.
Hutch mod and Harpoon mod: mods inside the fuel tank to stop the foamy fuel oil being returned to the tank come back near the fuel pick up.
Max A/C assist: F250's run coolant through the cab heater even when the a/c is on. There is a mod where a vacuum actuated tap turns off the coolant to the cab heater when the HVAC control is turned to max a/c. The higher spec US models and Expedition have this as standard.
AIH delete: The Air Intake Heater (AIH) is an electrical element, like an old kettle element, designed to heat the charge air in extremely cold conditions when prolonged idle is used. The AIH caused about a 20% restriction on the inlet. The AIH is obviously not used/required in temperate climates.
CCV mod: The Crank Case Ventilation takes air from on top of the oil in the crank case, which is pressured by combustion blow by, and emitted through the 'dog house' shaped box (called the dog house) at the rear of the left head. In stock form this oily smoke is routed into the air intake between the filter and the turbo. The smoke ends up leaving an oily film in the IC pipes, boots and IC itself. The CCV mod can filter this oily smoke through a 'catch can' and either return the filtered smoke to the inlet, or vent to the atmosphere. Whatever is done IT IS CRUCIAL that the CCV pressure coming out IS NOT RESTRICTED (otherwise a seal somewhere will blow, usually the EBPV seal on the turbo pedestal);
EBPV delete: Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - is used with the AIH to retain heat in the engine. However the EBPV can also be used by tuners in a DECEL tune to be an exhaust brake. The EBPV is a butterfly in the turbo outlet and causes a restriction when not is use. For a free flowing exhaust and lower Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) the EBPV can be removed. This can be done cheaply by modifying the stock turbo outlet - rip out the EBPV and weld up the holes, rip out the EBPV actuator rod from the turbo pedestal, cut a thread and insert a plug. Or you can buy a turbo outlet without the EBPV - called a high-flow outlet, and a 'delete pedestal' which has no EBPV actuator built-in and replace the stock item/s.
Sticks: means fuel injectors. Another popular mod is to upgrade the fuel injectors. After market injectors can be 'single shot', rated as number/number or hybrids. Once you go to big injectors then you are in 'big oil' territory where you will need a larger capacity High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) to move enough fuel. The stock HPOP will run Stage 2 injectors.
38R: is a bolt on bigger turbo charger - it has ball bearings on the turbo shaft and larger diameter turbo and inlet.
IC boot kit: Inter-Cooler boot kit - there are 6 boots connecting the 1) inlet turbo to the IC pipe, 2) the IC pipe to the IC inlet, 3) IC outlet to the IC return pipe, 4) IC return pipe to the turbo spider, 5&6) turbo spider to the inlet manifolds. The stock Ford connectors are flexible rubber bellowed hoses. After market kits are much thicker and sturdier - they don't balloon under pressure.
Plenum inserts: the stock inlet manifolds are pressed metal. There is a chance that over-tightening the clamps will collapse the thin metal manifold inlet pipe. The plenum inserts are billet machined donuts with a collar which slide into the stock inlet hole.
Turbo back: The full exhaust system from the turbo outlet back. Larger diameter pipes from the turbo outlet down to below the cab floor are notoriously hard to fit.
DP Tuner: An engine management system re-programming modification that allows pre-set 'tunes' to be selected for the engine management computer. Changes can be made to fueling, transmission shift points, and throttle response based on the various sensors on the engine and transmission. The DP Tuner is a popular brand of engine management re-programming that allows the customer to order many different engine tunes and change them on the fly.
Superchips: A simple engine management re-programmer which allows the unit to be connected and locked to a particular vehicle. The Superchips handset stores and deletes the stock tune from the vehicle and replaces it with one of a set of tunes based on yes/no answers. The vehicle can be returned to stock. The Superchips also allows fault codes to be read and deleted.
HPX: High Pressure Oil (X) cross over - a pipe linking the high pressure oil galleries mid-head to each other to equalise the high pressure oil pressures in each of the heads.
FRX: Fuel Rail X-over or Regulated Fuel Return - pipes linking the fuel passages at the end of each head back to the fuel return path via a pre-set pressure regulated valve - allows air/foamy fuel trapped in the heads to escape and get back to the tank rather than being forced through the injectors. Better for the injectors and smoother running engine are the claimed advantages.
OCR: Overboost Code Regulator - only allows up to a set maximum pressure into the MAP sensor - stops the overboost fault code, de-fuel, and the Check Engine Light coming on for the overboost situation.
Zoodad mod: Cutting an air hole in the radiator shroud right in front of the air filter spout. See: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/51...ntal-rain.html
foil delete: Some trucks have a foil coating on the IC tube closest to the air filter. Scrape the foil off and polish up the IC tube and you have done the 'foil delete' mod.
billet plenums: stronger inlet manifold replacements for the thin pressed metal stock inlets. Billet plenums don't need the strengthening plenum inserts which are recommended when using aftermarket IC boots and standard inlet manifolds. As the plenum inserts fit inside the standard opening they do cause a restriction. Billet manifolds mean you get the increased strength without the small restriction of plenum inserts.
Valve Body: Unfortunately Ford US designed the 4R100 gearbox with "Soccer Mums" in mind and fitted a valve body that gives an almost unnoticable gear shift. This is well and good for a "Soccer Mum" but as a truck it creates heat, the #1 enemy of an slush box. Changing out the valvebody gives a more positive 'shift - clunk, shift - clunk' through the gears reducing dramatically the friction and hence reducing heat. Also changing to Synthetic Auto Tranny fluid can cope with more heat than dino fluid. Couple this with a upgraded Tranny Fluid Cooler (preferably a 6.0L cooler or one out of the V10 in series with OEM). These three simple changes with add more durability and longetivity to these 4R100 Trannys.
Custom Tow Tunes (PHP, DP etc) will do wonders in this department as well.
Ball Joints: You will need to change these sooner or later. Ensure you get "Greaseable" Ball Joints. MOOG seem to be the prefered and Ford OEM now also make a replacement "Greaseable" set.
Guages: Essential to monitor Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT), Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT). Good idea to monitor Boost and nice to have Fuel Pressure, Coolant Temp and Engine Oil Temp (EOT).
Cheers,
Reg
#6
07-30-2012, 04:19 AM
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Thanks for those Reg!
Should have put the JW Valve body mod in myself! Upgraded mine at the Sydney GTG, well Clay and Brian actually fitted it. Shifting is definitely firmer and sharper! It is an easy low cost mod. To do the upgrade you'll also need approx 20L transmission fluid, a transmission pan gasket, and a transmission filter.
Fuel Bowl Delete the stock fuel system does not purge all the air out of the fuel. The Hutch and Harpoon mods are designed to limit the amount of foamy fuel being picked up in the tank. The FRX is designed to purge air from the heads thus saving unnecessary wear on the injectors. Another alternative to these mods is replacing the stock fuel bowl, which acts like a float chamber on a carby, with a fuel pump and 2 stage filter system. The first filtering stage removes water from the fuel and any tank debris, then post pump there is a finer filter, 2 microns, which filters out the air bubbles. The resultant 'solid' fuel can then be routed via the stock fuel pump to the high pressure fuel pump, thus making it possible to 'delete' the fuel bowl. Added benefits of this mod is that there is NO filter INSIDE the tank, thus removing the need to drop the tank in order to clean or replace the in-tank filter.
Should have put the JW Valve body mod in myself! Upgraded mine at the Sydney GTG, well Clay and Brian actually fitted it. Shifting is definitely firmer and sharper! It is an easy low cost mod. To do the upgrade you'll also need approx 20L transmission fluid, a transmission pan gasket, and a transmission filter.
Fuel Bowl Delete the stock fuel system does not purge all the air out of the fuel. The Hutch and Harpoon mods are designed to limit the amount of foamy fuel being picked up in the tank. The FRX is designed to purge air from the heads thus saving unnecessary wear on the injectors. Another alternative to these mods is replacing the stock fuel bowl, which acts like a float chamber on a carby, with a fuel pump and 2 stage filter system. The first filtering stage removes water from the fuel and any tank debris, then post pump there is a finer filter, 2 microns, which filters out the air bubbles. The resultant 'solid' fuel can then be routed via the stock fuel pump to the high pressure fuel pump, thus making it possible to 'delete' the fuel bowl. Added benefits of this mod is that there is NO filter INSIDE the tank, thus removing the need to drop the tank in order to clean or replace the in-tank filter.
#7
07-30-2012, 06:12 AM
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MODS
G'day Simon,
I reckon the tranny upgrades are one of the essentials especially if your goin' to tow heavy and a lot. Those upgrades will IMHO get the best out of the OEM tranny.
Only about 3K km after I bought this truck in 2006 the Tranny **** itself big time later that year. Got a rare crack in the fluid line going through the radiator bottom and contaminated the tranny and it threw a hissy fit on me
.
Anyway because it was only registered in Feb 2006 it was still under warranty
and Ford got it fully re-built including TC and fitted a new Radiator all under warranty.
Anyway I straight away ordered my JW VB & Filter off Clay and figured a 5K km run was a good flush/run in. So I dumped the Dino Fluid, changed the Filter and fitted the new filter and JW VB. I already had a BD Deep pan and filled her up with Castrol Transmax 'Z'. Ran it for another 2K km and changed the fluid again (with Castrol Transmax 'Z') and figured that should see it right for a bloody long time.
I've researched Auto longetivity and the boffins reckon that 99% of contaminants and residues found in Auto boxes are caused in the initial 10K km of use in a new or reman box. They say that a change of oil twice and a filter change within that first 10k km increases an auto boxes life substantially and is relatively good insurance practice.
I've been pullin' heavy, mountin climbing and bush driving without any signs of dramas. So fingers crossed it will stay that way.
Cheers,
Reg
I reckon the tranny upgrades are one of the essentials especially if your goin' to tow heavy and a lot. Those upgrades will IMHO get the best out of the OEM tranny.
Only about 3K km after I bought this truck in 2006 the Tranny **** itself big time later that year. Got a rare crack in the fluid line going through the radiator bottom and contaminated the tranny and it threw a hissy fit on me
.Anyway because it was only registered in Feb 2006 it was still under warranty
and Ford got it fully re-built including TC and fitted a new Radiator all under warranty.Anyway I straight away ordered my JW VB & Filter off Clay and figured a 5K km run was a good flush/run in. So I dumped the Dino Fluid, changed the Filter and fitted the new filter and JW VB. I already had a BD Deep pan and filled her up with Castrol Transmax 'Z'. Ran it for another 2K km and changed the fluid again (with Castrol Transmax 'Z') and figured that should see it right for a bloody long time.
I've researched Auto longetivity and the boffins reckon that 99% of contaminants and residues found in Auto boxes are caused in the initial 10K km of use in a new or reman box. They say that a change of oil twice and a filter change within that first 10k km increases an auto boxes life substantially and is relatively good insurance practice.
I've been pullin' heavy, mountin climbing and bush driving without any signs of dramas. So fingers crossed it will stay that way
.Cheers,
Reg
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#8
05-24-2013, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for the info
Simon and others,
Thanks for the list, its already answered a few questions I was going to ask.
One thing I would like to know is what engine oil do you guys recommend
for a 7.3?
I have been using Penrite 15-50 semi synth in the Toyota and it seems
to be doing a good job in the turbo 1HZ.
Thanks for the list, its already answered a few questions I was going to ask.
One thing I would like to know is what engine oil do you guys recommend
for a 7.3?
I have been using Penrite 15-50 semi synth in the Toyota and it seems
to be doing a good job in the turbo 1HZ.
#10
05-24-2013, 08:58 PM
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#11
05-24-2013, 09:53 PM
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#12
05-24-2013, 10:10 PM
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Not looking to start an argument about stuff
Thanks Patchy.
I have had the Landcruiser for some time but have never owned
any other diesel so what I really need is any advise I can get
from Australian 7.3 owners.
I have spent to much money on the truck to stuff something up
by using something in it that may have been apropriate for
the Toyota back really wrong for the Powerstroke.
All advise will be greatfully appreciated.
Thanks again.
I have had the Landcruiser for some time but have never owned
any other diesel so what I really need is any advise I can get
from Australian 7.3 owners.
I have spent to much money on the truck to stuff something up
by using something in it that may have been apropriate for
the Toyota back really wrong for the Powerstroke.
All advise will be greatfully appreciated.
Thanks again.
#13
05-25-2013, 09:09 PM
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#14
05-25-2013, 09:41 PM
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