Guy's
For those of you who reponded to me in the States Chapter, Hi once again. I have joined in the Aussie one as well. I am also looking to upgrate the air intake from the standard one. I have been looking into the Banks Air Ram. Is this one the go, or is there a better one out there. Thoughts!!

Also saw that you had Clay come down for a visit, Would have been awesome to come to the GTG. Maybe for the next one, if my effie isn't playing games.
Thanks

 

HI Wallsy,

depends on way you're planning to do.

Off Road, dust & dirt you'd be looking for some sort of snorkel and air box set up.

For tarmac running a lot of guys just have the 6637 filter pod in the engine bay.
Here's mine before:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1077641...06956490467234
https://picasaweb.google.com/1077641...06948269399634

After:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1077641...17702276014194
Note:
1)air filter with blue cover right hand side of the pic;
2)coolant filter (billet mount just towards the centre from the battery on right side of pic);
3)blue Riff Raff IC boot kit;
4)small blue plug in turbo inlet running clear line for boost gauge - blue plug takes the place of the Air Intake Heater (AIH) when the AIH delete is done;
5)home made heat shield (towards centre of vehicle from air filter);
6)some wiring work behind the headlights (relays for 100/90w headlamp bulbs);
7)clean tube next to heat shield is the CCV delete vent pipe. This runs to a homemade filter & catch can before venting to the atmosphere.

Everything else in there is still stock. All info was gathered from the FTE forums, parts sourced from Riff Raff except the coolant filter which was from the US 'Diesel Site'. Yes, the post man is my friend...

FTE Aussie members here, Brian and Bryan, also good sources of knowledge and contacts!

 

SSSimon,
Will stick to the tarmac with this one mate. My effie is still only a two wheel drive (technically). Need to work on an LSD for the rear. The filter pod is something I never considered. Does it make a big difference from the standard set up? Something else for me to get a price on from RiffRaff. I must commend you on the cleanlyness of your engine bay. The AIH along with the bellows is a definate, also now the air intake.

 

Thanks. Mine is mainly tarmac use, but I love to use a few bush short cuts when I am down the coast.

Stock air filter has a bit of a reputation for leaking under load - seals around the air filter element need to be carefully checked.

I find that the 6637 Pod is great. Downside is that if you do a lot of slow driving there is the risk of sucking in warm air from the engine bay rather than cooler outside air.

For engine breathing: 6637, Aramid IC boot kit (you'll need 3.5" boots at the IC), AIH delete plug.

A lot of your engines boost is wasted in the light weight flexible ballooning excuses for IC boots that come standard!

I was looking at the diff codes on the US site. I only realised this week that my rear diff is LSD. Take a note of the numbers on the metal dog tag bolted to your truck's rear diff. The numbers will tell you the make and model, ratio, ring gear size, build year month and day. If there is an L in the right place it may already be LSD from the factory. If the L is there but you have found that it is slipping you may need to add special LSD friction modifier to the diff oil (another tag on the diff states which oil should be used - I think mine is something like 75W140 synth).

BTW, I carefully jet washed the engine bay early last year after the stock up-pipes donuts leaked and blacked the hole space with soot.

 

G'Day Wallsy and welcome to the Australian Chapter m8.
Nothing wrong with the banks system but the price. There are plenty out there that do the same for alot less. Depends on what ya wanna spend, but you are on the right track. To get the best out these things the first step is air in and air out. Your intake and exhaust. I have the aFe stage II intake and MRBP 4" exhaust. The aFe is a wash and oil conical filter that flows all the air that you will need at any HP. It also separates the filter from the hot engine bay.


pricey but good
Riffraff Diesel: AFE Stage 2 Intake

and here is the exhaust. Now I went with the stainless steel but If I was to do it again I would get this one with the Stainless steel tip

Riffraff Diesel: MBRP 4" Turbo Back Aluminized

 

What's the mod called where you cut a hole in the baffle which is in front of the air intake, but behind the grill?

If I was to choose again I think I'd go for the AFE Stage 2 Intake.

I opted for the AFE 6637. It doesn't look as neat but was very good value.
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me...e=F731-IN-6637

 

Wallsy, can you post a pic or pic-link to some photos of your truck. I'm suspecting, given that you have spotted a lot of differences between your truck and the Aussie ones, that you may in fact have the later model. The US 2004, 2005, 2006 model trucks are NOT the same as the Aussie ones from those years. In fact the Aussie trucks from those years were made in Brazil and are equivalents to the US 2003 model. Hence whenever I buy stuff from the US I have to order for a 2003 7.3 when my truck has a build plate of 2005 from Brazil.

 

SSSimon,
My compliance is a sticker on the inside of the passengers suicide door. Its a 4/99 F350 super duty. Conversion was done in melbourne by a company called RCM in the 10/99. I traced the compliance numbers back on the web site to the Kentucy Plant in the states. It still had the original Alcoa rims on when I got it. Reading the log books is entertaining as well. Seems it was a company truck for Westrac for 40,000km in WA. My 4x4 shift is still a stick through the floor, and not a switch on the dash. I will post some picks tomorrow and show you some of the differences. I discovered these mostly when I went to replace worn interior parts and started to learn. I have a glove box which I have been told that the Aussie ones do not have. Its also a 6 seat compliance.

 

OK, interesting. You will have a different turbo and intercooler to the 'Aussie' models.
When ordering from the US make sure you specify early 99. You will actually need the 3" IC boots. I know cause I got the wrong ones and had to reorder. I still have the 3" boots somewhere, but you usually just buy a complete set. You'll probably find a lot of your interior parts, the ones that are different in any case, are equivalent to the US OBS (Old Body Style) 7.3 model.

 

I will take some photos of the engine bay and turbo as well. I purchased a banks wicked wheel and big head actuator which turned up today. They were for a 99 model. Hoping they fit now? Anyway the only mods I can see to the truck are the exhaust, looks like a 3 1/2 off the turbo into a 4 under the truck, and a garrett intake to the turbo. The rest is stock. When ordering most of the parts I try to include that it is a 4/99, just to ensure they get the parts right.

 

I've got a Banks Big Head actuator on my turbo. The trick is to fit it up and measure it out to the waste gate actuator arm then screw the shaft in 6 full revolutions before connecting it.
I pulled my turbo off when I blew the EBPV seals on the pedestal. That's when I started learning about the truck. I tried to get the stock turbo wheel off but couldn't budge it so left it there. I've since seen a youtube vid of a guy getting stuck in with a rattle gun to get the turbo wheel off.

 

Do you have this type of Y pipe that your IC pipes connect to ??



The Zoodad mod Simon

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ntal-rain.html

 

lets hope its a Late 99 cause if it aint you already have the wicked wheel

 

Zoodad now added with short description and link.

According to Eugene, as your spider is supposed reflecting heat back into a hotter external environment, it is supposed to be painted white or silver!

Making it black could knock off .01% of your IC efficiency!

 

So Im going to pay more carbon tax right ?????