6.0 egr delete.No boost.
#1
6.0 egr delete.No boost.
so me and my buddy pulled the truck apart. We put the egr delete, new down pipe, blocker plate, whole shebang in. Put it back together, I got no boost, a loud hissing sound, codes: p0403 p0405 p1000 . Did i not tighten the vband clamp tight enough? or is there something else im missing? I put that gasket between the new pipe and the passanger side manifold was that the correct spot?
#2
You may have more luck posting this question in the 6.0 folder but it sounds to me like you could have a major leak at the pipe connecting to the turbo from the exhaust, hence it can't build up boost. That's a common issue when putting these back together. It's a special kind of clamp and easy to put on wrong if you can't see closely in there...
Good luck
Good luck
#4
so me and my buddy pulled the truck apart. We put the egr delete, new down pipe, blocker plate, whole shebang in. Put it back together, I got no boost, a loud hissing sound, codes: p0403 p0405 p1000 . Did i not tighten the vband clamp tight enough? or is there something else im missing? I put that gasket between the new pipe and the passanger side manifold was that the correct spot?
Start it up feel around the Ypipe connection for leaks when its cold
So if I have this right you got the egr deleate kit that totaly removes the egr cooler right?????????????????
If so^^^^^^ probably going to be leaking at ypipe to turbo connection Dont use the clamp to suck it together they tend to break it must be totaly ligned up the inner Lip on the ypipe side
I usually set the turbo in and then get that ypipe to turbo joint good before I Bolt it to the pedistall and install down pipe. I have to push mine alittle to get it PERFICT lined up and then use an Air ratchet to tighten the Marmon clamp up
BTW Put some Antiseize on the Marmon clamp Flanges little slip-n-slide here goes along ways dont forget to antiseize them bolts too
#5
Another vote for a mis-aligned collector. VERY easy to do. I did it on the last EGR delete I did.
Loosen the up-pipe bolts at the manifolds if you can and put that collector in where it belongs. You'll feel it when it goes in where it belongs. Put your clamp on, tighten it, then re-tighten your up-pipe bolts.
Loosen the up-pipe bolts at the manifolds if you can and put that collector in where it belongs. You'll feel it when it goes in where it belongs. Put your clamp on, tighten it, then re-tighten your up-pipe bolts.
#7
When I do them I loosen the bolts that hold the turbo to the pedestal as well as the bolts that hold the up pipes to the manifolds. Hope it solves your problem.
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So did you rule out any exhaust leaks
I start it up when cold and feel around all those exhaust connections FAST while it idels to feel for leaks
Another trick would be hang a string on the stick and hang it around back therre watch for it to blow around
A small exhaust leak and it wont pull a Greasy string out a cats A$$
If it dont leak some gauges would be needed to trouble shoot the rest maybe a DVM would help Old sschool style
have a ScanGaugeII or anything of the Like??????????
I start it up when cold and feel around all those exhaust connections FAST while it idels to feel for leaks
Another trick would be hang a string on the stick and hang it around back therre watch for it to blow around
A small exhaust leak and it wont pull a Greasy string out a cats A$$
If it dont leak some gauges would be needed to trouble shoot the rest maybe a DVM would help Old sschool style
have a ScanGaugeII or anything of the Like??????????
#15
I checked all around the up pipes, y pipe, the clamp, I cant feel any air. can I shut off the radiator fan somehow so I can check the boots and cac pipe? im about to physically fight this truck. its on my last nerve. I really dont want to pay a ford mechanic $200 to tell me i had a loose connection.
No scan gauge, just a super chip, getting same codes.
Wheres the ebp located?
No scan gauge, just a super chip, getting same codes.
Wheres the ebp located?