Hello,

I have been searching the forums and have seen several threads regarding the problems with these fuse boxes, but I haven't been able to find the information I am looking for about the actual work required to swap it out.

History:
The vehicle started dying randomly here and there, but it would always start back up. Then one time it finally died and wouldn't start back up at all, and there was a small amount of smoke coming from the fuse box, behind the relays. It still cranks, but never starts up.

I checked all of the relays and fuses, and everything looked good, but it still wouldn't start. So we had to have it towed to the dealership. They told me that the fuse box is burnt up inside and that I would have to wait more than 3 weeks for a replacement part due to them being on backorder.

Where I am now:
I ventured out on my own and found a brand new fuse box, and it will be here tomorrow. The problem is that the dealership wants a stupid amount of money just to swap out the parts.

I usually do my own work on the truck and the bike, and to me this part looks like it is just plug and play (the parts shop I ordered from said that the module doesn't require any additional programming). The fuse box is easily accessible in the passenger side kick panel as well. So I'm not sure why the dealership charges so much to swap it out with the new one.

I want to perform the work myself, so here are my questions:
Has anybody done the swap out on a 2003 Expedition who could provide some information on the process?
Is there a how-to somewhere? (I have searched and haven't found any so far)
How hard is it really?
How long do you think it should take me to do it?

Thanks,
Strider

 

Wow, 143 views and no replies. I guess I will have to reply to this myself in case anybody else ever needs help with this.

So, I did the swap in less than 20 minutes.

Tools Required:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- You will need a 7/16" socket and a 10mm socket
- You will also need an extension for it.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Parts Required:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Fuse Box (part number 3L1Z-14A068-AA or 3L1Z-14A068-AB, depending on the build date of your Expedition)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Instructions:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Remove the passenger side kick panel that covers the fuse box.

2. Pull the rubber door seal off just a bit so you can remove the other plastic piece that goes right next to the kick panel you just removed.

3. Unplug all of the wires from the face and right hand side of the fuse box.

4. Use the 7/16" socket to remove the nut that holds the fuse box to the chassis (it's on the right hand side of the fuse box). Be careful not to drop the nut into the abyss that is beneath the fuse box.

5. Rotate the fuse box to unhook it from the chassis and expose the back of it.

6. Unplug the wire for the back of the fuse box.

7. Remove the plastic cover from the ground wire on the left hand side of the fuse box to expose the nut that holds it on.

8. Use the 10mm socket to remove the nut that holds the ground wire on the fuse box. Once again, be careful not to drop the nut into the abyss that is beneath the fuse box.

9. The fuse box should be free now.

10. Reinstall the new fuse box in the reverse order. Once again, be careful not to drop the nuts into the abyss that is beneath the fuse box when you are putting them back on.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Regards,
Strider

 

Your write-up makes it sound as if you may have dropped one of those bolt/nuts into that abyss you mentioned.

 

No, but I almost did!

 

That's an odd repair to have to make - was it just a bad fuse box or did you find what caused the box to fry?

 

Actually, for this year model, it's unfortunately not that odd. The original fuse boxes are prone to overheating and burning out. There were also some issues with moisture on a lot of the these as well (either from an improperly sealed windshield, or from the A/C system).

I didn't see any moisture issues with mine, so it was just the badly engineered fuse box. The new part is updated to correct this issue.

 

great - I've got an 03 EB. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I know this is an old thread. But i'm getting ready to do the same thing on the wifes 04 EB. It would stop running and start right back up and finally after a year or more, it would not start. Everyone said fuel pump so i replaced the fuel pump still no fuel. I have searched and finally came across another thread just like yours it even tells how to power certain wires to get the fuel pump to run. To be sure it is the problem.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well it is the problem. Jumpered the fuel pump wire at the plug on the fuse block engine started. Pulled the fuse block and the relay is smoked. Have to order the new part 344.07$ One would think this would be a recall issue. I love my Fords but this is just plain poor engineering. None removable relays????????????????????? WTF

 

I'm glad this thread helped!

That's odd that you can't replace the relays. Mine had several removable relays in it, but they were all good.

Also, you may be able to find your fuse box cheaper at the place I got mine: www.autopartscheaper.com

 

Already order it. 366.43 with tax

 

I think I have this same issue on my 2003. I do not get any error message, it has stalled a few times over the last couple of weeks, even while driving. I changed the fuel filter a couple of days ago, but it did the same thing again today. Starts straight up again so far. Is there any way to confirm that you know of before risking the $300+? It does seem a perfect fit to the symptoms, I guess I am just wishing for a cheaper easy fix!

 

I believe I need to do this on my 2000 Navigator 5.4. It seems to be very common in Ford's.
1) I would like to know how you figured out your fuse box was bad?
2) Was it just one that was bad? I think my CJB, possible GEM, and interior fuse box is bad. The box is not testing but fuses are good.
3) Any programming needed?
4) Did you have to replace any wires?
I am stuck and no one seems to know.
Thanks so much!!!!

 

That is the same thing mine was doing. It would just die, and then it would start right back up when I turned the key. Then one day it died, and a little smoke came out of the fuse box area down by the passenger's feet when I tried to start it, but it would not start again.

1. There was smoke coming from that area. I had it towed to a dealer when it wouldn't start, and they confirmed it was the fuse box.

2. It was just the one (I think the GEM is integrated with the fuse box in my year model).

3. No programming for my year model (I'm not sure about the 2000, but the GEM may require programming).

4. No, I didn't have to replace any wires.

I hope this helps.

 

I finally got fed up of driving my wife's expedition pimped in leopard, because she would not trust it. It would still cut out, sometimes within a few minutes, other times a week or so apart. I decided to take a leap of faith a few days ago, found the fuse box for $290 at gaudinford.com incl shipping - switched it out myself Monday with the instructions posted above. It did take me about an hour or so, wanted to be sure not to break any wires with the numerous connections from every angle. So far so good!!!! Wish me luck.
A special THANK YOU to Strider007.