Dear Wise Powerstoke Masters,
2005 F350 6.0 with 137471 miles. While under warranty the left set of injectors were replaced, the EGR cooler was replaced. Out of warranty the HPOP STC was replaced.

The current issue is; the truck was running fine and then shut down overnight. The next morning the truck would not start. The truck has 1/4 tank of diesel. The oil level was satisfactory. LP oil pressure indicated on a long crank cycle. RPM registered 150 rpm on an Innova OBDII. Both fuel filters were soiled but no o-ring debri. Fuel looked clean, clear and straw colored. Both fuel filters were replaced. The engine oil and filter were replaced. (all motorcraft filters and the oil too from Wal*Mart. The airfilter was removed and looked alright. The new one has not been installed while fault isolating. Both batteries were 4 years old and replaced for good measure.

The Autoenginuity Ford (E101) was purchaced for $414. DTC showed all 8 injector circuits low (P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0282) and the comon denominater in my opinion P0611 The FICM. Looking at the FICM voltages on the data and graph pages the voltage drops down to 40 VDC. It should be 48 VDC. The truck has a battery tender to keep them topped off and a charger on it during the crank cycles. The FICM logic power starts at 12.0 VDC and stays above 10.5 VDC. ?????Can a FICM show decent voltages and still be failed?????

I called FICMfixer Shannon and asked if the truck would start at 40VDC and he stated he had seen trucks start as low as 25VDC. I also spoke to a Ford Service writer and he stated he had seen trucks start as low as 30 VDC but it was hit or miss.

The Injector Control Pressure looks satisfactory and actually gets up to 1607 psi during the crank cycle. The RPM registers up to 154 rpm. The injector buzz check says it passes however I can't say that I can hear all 8 buzz at once then cycle through buzzing each injector. ??????Can the injector buzz test pass and the FICM still be an issue??????

My plan now is to check the FICM connectors for security and cleanliness and the powers and grounds to the FICM. If those check good then I'll ship the FICM off to FICMFIXER for repair.

When it comes back if she still will not start I'll get the diesel compression tester and adapter and the 303-765 adapter high pressure pump test, 303-766 adapter high pressure rail test. These checks seem uneccassary based on the ICP pressures and voltages. ?????? I've read forums where blown head gaskets can still be driven ??????? can a blown head gasket cause a no start????? It seems plausible no compression no combustion but it would have to be all cylinders leaking.

Reading the forums it seems the Crankshaft and camshaft sensors have been issues in the past. There are coded for these and it would seem these would report or I wouldn't see the rpm indication. Any ideas on this?

??????? Does anyone know how to check the crank and cam sensors using the Autoenginuity?????? It has selections for them however I dont know if the bit is set or open.

I've tried to read as much as possible and followed the fault isolation threads but just didn't see what I was expecting. My guess was the HPOP leak and see 1600 psi kind of shot that. The FICM voltage at 40 and the FICM P0611 code came back after clearing the faults and attempting another start attempt. That's my next best shot. If anyone has history on this let me know. I'll post the results after I get my FICM back if it fixes it or not.

 

Well, I would first get the FICM repaired.

Reinstall it, and see what happens.

40v is not super LOW, its just LOW but anything under 48 should be replaced/fixed. Ill let it go as low as 47 before I would consider it a problem.

Also, crank and cam sensors are not as common on the 6.0s as opposed to the older 7.3L motors.

 

X2 on the FICM send it to Ed

Also check Alternator output

You said that you had 12Vdc and it went down to 10VDC on FICM Lodgic power

It should start Low say at 10VDC right after crank IMO and then slowly rise untill GP turn off and then you should hit 14.3VDC as the alternator charges

The way you put it looks like the Alternator has Taken out the FICM start 12VDC and Lose Volts as it runs to 10VDC

And welcome to FTE

 

Oh 1 more thing to get the Whole story with the HPO System Need more info

Check at KOEO IPR%

And then while Cranking Take note of ICP & IPR% and ICP Volts


I honestly dont think you have a HPO problem But doesnt hurt to check what you have and if nothing eles you will Learn how to Check the health of the HPO system


But hope that the Voltage problem on the FICM hasnt taken out any injectors its probably been going on for a few and the FICM Injector drivers are bad

 

Thank you Blade35 and 2006Powerstroke90 for the quick replies.

The truck is a crank and no start. The vehicle voltage just dropped because of the crank cycle. when I get running again I'll definately verify the alternator output voltage.

I sent the FICM off to FICMFIXER today 03 07 2012. The connectors looked clean and dry. I didnt have a chance to check the powers and grounds at the FICM. That whole work thing gets in the way sometimes. Yesterday I was looking at the Autoenginuity screens and my saved crank cycles. It has 40 VDC as the lowest limit on the screen. I should have lowered the limit to see if it would record lower or popped the cover off my FICM and checked the voltage directly with a multimeter. I figured for 400 bucks for a disc and dongle the software would be smart enough to give the true voltage even if it was below the set graph limit. I may have had lower voltage and not known it??

I'll update when I get the ficm back in the truck.

 

Let us know how you make out

 

i have had them run at 19v before dieing. I have also had no starts at 42v go figure that out

 

I didn't get the whole scoop on Ed for the FICM repair until it was already shiped. I guess he has a lot of good customer satisfaction and helps FTE quite a bit. My apologies to Ed. I believe in being a team player and paying for good customer support. On the other hand if Shannon @ ficmfixer does a good job for me I'll ensure it gets reported as well. I've been researching several of the Powerstroke forums and there is one I'm subscribed to for the Autoenginuity (AE). He doesn't have an issue just building a baseline and trying different tunes. he posted a video on the buzz check that helped me confirm the FICM. My incectors werent buzzing just giving single solenoid clicks. Again I didn't find this until after shipping the ficm out but it was reasuring. Thank you all again for the help and replies. Hopefully I'll get my FICM back on Tuesday. Have a good weekend.

 

Thank you all for your advice and assistance, IT"S ALIVE!!!!! Shannon at FICMFIXER.com did a great job I sent it to him on Wednesday and got it back USPS Express mail today. It was cleaned up, sealed in a static bag, and bubble wrapped. I installed my FICM and hooked up the AE software. I cleared the codes and performed the KOEO checks with no faults noted. I performed the injector buzz checks and was dissapointed I only had the initial buzz then It seemed like #6 buzzed. The other 7 just clicked. I saw huge dollar signs before my eyes. The FICM voltages are great at 48.5 VDC. I did a crank cycle and it stayed at 48VDC. two more crank cycles looking at the IPC and IPR and she lit off. Now I know I have to save my pennies for a set of injectors. If I go in that far I may go ahead with the Black Onx Head gaskets, APR head studs, Bosch injectors.

Thanks everyone for the support. I only hope I can pay it forward to another poor 6.0 owner.

 

A word of caution here on the Black Onics Head gaskets they have had some issues so beware

Most Guys here go with OEM HGs there fine with ARP Studs

Its not the Head Gaskets Failing its the Torq to yeild Head Bolts that stretch

I hear they have changed the OEM Headbolts and there Better Now but I would still go with ARP Studs and OEM Head Gaskets

 

+1 on OEM head gaskets ONLY!

I do not believe the talk on the streets that Ford updated the head bolts. If they did, they kept it a tight secret and didn't tell their Techs (at least not the ones I talk to on occasion).

 

Wilco! thanks for the heads up OEM HG s and APR studs. What causes the injectors to fail? Too low of voltage makes the coils overheat?

 

Fuel pressure being too low (below 45 psig is bad) - this is the #1 cause according to Ford.

Also, dirty oil or oil that has been used for too many miles.

A weak FICM can also ruin injectors eventually.

 

"Thinking" about the injectors too long will cause them to fail.

 

I recently had the same issue My truck was driving fine and out of nowhere is start mis firing and it cut off on me I let it sit overnight and it turned on the next day I made it home but it started misfiring again I changed the FICM And it turned right on but then The next day it stalled again I changed the FICM And it still does nothing it did have a Tune Does this have anything to do with it???