ok so i havent done the install yet, but i thought of a clever way to set up a resistor to be crimped in. For those who dont want to solder it for various reasons.

first i started off with a 20k 1/2w 5% resistor and two 18-22 guage butt connectors


then i clipped the ends of the resistor about 1/4" and crimped it into the first connector. being careful to not put the body of the resistor into the metal crimp section so it wouldnt shatter (learned from experience)

then the other connector, taking same precaution

then some shrink tubing for extra strength and rigidity

then a label for easy I.D

then i realized i had access to a shrink tubing label maker and wanted to be fancy



now all that has to be done is a couple of crimps and its good to go.

 

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...tml/Q180-A.pdf

 

Based on what you guys have written, I'm wondering if I really need the high idle mod at all. I have an enclosed trailer with a winch (Warn 3700) inside that I use when loading/unloading cars. I also have a 12V winch (warn M8000) on a cradle that mounts to my hitch receiver. I have the Warn 2g cables run from the battery through a solenoid to the rear bumper area to connect to the winches. Solenoid is activated via an upfitter switch.
Based on what I read online, I had activated (via upfitter switch) the high idle on my 6.4 as another user posted above to bump the idle to keep the battery volts up while winching. I also used the wire that automatically ramped up the idle to maintain sufficient system voltage. Really cool! So, apparently that isn't an option on the 6.7L.
Do I need this or should I just let the alternators (yes, I have dual) manage them selves?
I also would use the high idle occasionally while tailgating or camping. After leaving the radio on for a few hours, I would start the truck to charge the batteries back up and I'd use the high idle switch to help with the charging.