I have not been using my 2000 Excursion, 7.3l, for a few months. I tried to start it and found the battery was dead. I charged them and it started for a second then died. I tried starting it again and the engine just turned over for a few moments then the battery died again.

Just before it started and right after, with the key turned to the ON position all dash lights lit and went away like they were supposed to. After I charged the battery again it won't start. And now none of the dash lights or gauges activate. Only the battery and THEFT light come on. I have tried all three of my keys and nothing works. My guess was the PATS system lost the key programming. But even worst, now AE isn't recognized at all so I can't even get in to the Ex's computer.

I have Auto Enginuity (AE) and tried checking the codes. It had P1260-Theft detected, engine disabled and a half dozen others. I tried to program the keys and after waiting the ten minutes it said my security was invalid or something like that. I called the stealership and they want $105 just to look at reprogramming the keys. Then they will probably tell me the PCM is bad and want $500.

Any ideas on how I can get my truck started without paying to tow my own car to the stealership just to pay them to start my own car?

 

Maybe call a locksmith and explain what happened and see if they can do it cheaper?

But first, is your rig stock? Custom tunes? Dp-Tuner perchance?

What were the other half dozen codes detected?

Stewart

 

Engine is stock. Only code I remember specifically was water in fuel. But originally the dash water in fuel light did not stay on. Something else about barametric pressure, overhead console. I didn't bother taking the time to write them down since I attributed them to the dead battery for a while. I didn't expect it to take a dump.

 

If the PATS system is the culprit - everything on the dash should look normal just a no start condition. Does the Theft light stay on solid or flash? Try pulling the PATS fuse and see if the conditions change any. Sounds like you may have battery issues if a single start and a bit of turning over drained them completely. I would have them tested - low battery voltage causes a LOT of strange issues on our trucks - false codes, etc.

 

I agree......I bet you a have one bad battery.....internally shorted or dead cell....... I would just replace both of them and see what happens. There is a procedure to reset the PATS involving key in ....then back out....then on etc....I put it in a thread on here....will see if I can find it.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...light=sync+key

This has reset instructions when you get to the point where she turns over but won't start.... re-syncing the pats key anit theft instructions....

 

If its the PATS system......key out of ignition....put key in amd turn on but do not start........look at theft light....should be blinking fast.....wait 30 to 45 seconds or until it starts to blink slow or goes out.......turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.........wait 15 seconds....turn key on.....do not start....look at theft light.....should be blinking slow......normal mode.....when wait to start light goes out it should start normal

 

Thank yall for the replies so far.

tdappleman- the light is blinking not solid.

njneer1- The theft light blinks at a steady rate but not rapidly. When the key is in the on position only the battery light illuminates and no others. None of the gauges move either. The wait to start light doesn't come on or any others. And in this state the engine will turn over just not start.

I disconnected both batteries last night and charged one. I just swapped the charger to the other battery and will give it another try when it is full. I hope your right though, one of the batteries took a dive and caused this condition. I am baffled as to why it will turn over though and no gauge activity or start.

I will post results after batteries are charged up again and go through these next steps.

Any ideas why AE would not make a connection to even try and get in and program keys or look at codes anymore?

 

check your fuses on the AE......the diagnostic link fuse and lighter fuse is the same.....if it's dead no ALDL connection......thinks it's # 15 ???.......I think....

Weird question.....does your windshield leak onto your fuse box ??

 

Your problem started with the batteries so first-things-first, replace them both, install them, and report back what happens when you try and start it.

Stewart

 

There's an echo in here !.......sorry Stewart !! please don't put me in the penalty box with your superpower !

 

Hey, I just had your back, Jack!

Stewart

 

Thanks Stewart !!

 

So after I charged both batteries I hooked them back up to the Ex. Both batteries had been disconnected for more than 12 hours. Tried hooking up AE and everything connected fine. Tried the first key and started up fine. Tried the second key and started fine. Tried the third key and then the theft light started blinking fast. I tried using AE to add the third key but AE kept saying it was busy or security connection failed. I also tried syncing the keys like you suggested but that didn't work. So, since I have two working keys I'm not going to play with fire and keep trying to get the third key to work. Since it is in theft mode again, I am going to leave the batteries disconnected overnight and hope that works again. Now I'm curious if AE can really program keys. Do you have to delete all then add all as new? I am to afraid to do that unless someone has had experience with it.

I heard low voltage conditions caused issues, wow. New batteries are on the horizon.

Thanks for the quick responses and help.

 

You don't need AE to program your keys. You just need two working keys to program a third or fourth key.

1. Place first already programmed key in the keyway. Turn the ignition from OFF to ON (RUN) without starting the vehicle, for at least 1 second and then switch to OFF.

2. Within 5 seconds, insert your second already programmed key in the keyway. Turn the ignition from OFF to ON (RUN) without starting it, for at least 1 second and then switch to OFF.

3. Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition lock cylinder to OFF, insert the new key into the keyway. Turn the ignition from OFF to ON (RUN) without starting it, for at least 1 second and then switch to OFF.

The theft indicator light should go on for three seconds, after which the key will start the vehicle. Repeat this process, from the beginning, for each new key to be programmed.

Stewart