94 F150 4.9 stalls when cold - no code

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01-20-2012, 09:16 PM

Burgess0909

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94 F150 4.9 stalls when cold - no code

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Issue: The engine will randomly stall when first cranking it up. It may run a few seconds or a few minutes. It will start right back up and run smoothly until it stalls again. There is no change in RPMs before the engine stalls. It seems like a kill switch is flipped. If you press the gas pedal slightly, the engine will run smoothly and surge during the time it would typically stall, but it will remain running. After 5-10 minutes of running, the engine will run and drive smoothly until it has been shut off for 8 hours or so. There are no codes during KOEO or KOER. Prior to this issue, I had a 332 in continues memory. I replaced the EGR valve and replaced a clogged vacuum line. I then had a surge in RPMs while cursing in overdrive. I followed a thread and installed an EGR restrictor plate. The surge in RPMs while driving went away, but I am still left with the stalling issue.

Recent replacements: EGR valve, EGR solenoid, EGR sensor, EGR restrictor plate, plugs, wires

Distributor cap and rotor are in good shape with less than 20k on them. The fuels pumps are strong and I have tried both tanks. I feel like I may be losing spark, but the symptoms do not point me toward the coil or ignition control module. I had read all of the relevant posts, I am at a lost. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, Justin

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01-22-2012, 09:06 AM

Burgess0909

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I have changed the IAC, coil, and ignition control module. No change in symptoms.

Any ideas?

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01-22-2012, 09:13 AM

Rockaholic

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If it happens and has trouble even with the pedal pressed, ever think it may be the TPS, its a long shot but its reletivily cheap and sounds like it could be that.

Now when i first got my truck I had an issue with a rocker sensor and when ever i took a turn to hard sometimes my motor would cut out for a few minutes.

Pull your spark plugs and see if they have any carbon build up on them, also look in the dark to see if a wire is cracked or split. Did you ever take distributor out? If so it might be timing is off.

Have you thrown some throttle body cleaner in and changed fuel filter, and done basic tune up in awhile? I know you said rotor and cap are ok.

If not that than it still sounds electrical.

My rocker sensor or any sensor for that matter that has to do with a instant shut off will not show a code. As far as i know when it goes off. It might log it somewhere but i am not sure where it would log it at.

Hope this helped a little, if not let me know and i can keep doing research.

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01-22-2012, 10:46 AM

Burgess0909

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I have used seafoam for cleaner, but I have not changed the fuel filter. I have read that if it is a fuel delivery the problem would get worse when the gas pedal is pressed.
I did remove the distributor 20k ago. I rebuilt my engine a year ago. This problem just began a week ago. The engine runs perfect at any other time. I am stumped! I changed the wires this past weekend, but i will look for sparks tonight. When I changed the plugs, there was some carbon with an orange tint. I related this to the EGR value letting too much exhaust gas into the intake causing a lean mixture.

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01-22-2012, 01:24 PM

Rockaholic

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When you had it rbuilt did you have all sensors replaced at the same time?

Have you added anything electronic to your vehicle? Stereo, Tach, etc... Could have a small short or something simple.

When you say cold, how cold?

Have you filled your gas tank lately? If you have a summer blend in your tank it could be like sludge and once the truck gets going of course the heat from the motor as it runs by it once it is warm will make it more like water again. If it is cold like up north and you happen to get the last of a summer blend at a gas station that could be the problem.

Air filter? Anything with that? Wouldnt cause a shut down but could be contributing. Check your oil and see how dark it is.

Have you checked your compression? maybe you got a bad ring or seal and it finally gave.

Have you had your battery checked? My truck had an issue with the volt regulator on the altenator and that cause it to just shut down when i was stopped.

I am just throwing easy things you can check out to see if it can help narrow things down, because there are 3 basic things a motor needs to run. fuel, air, and spark(at least a gas motor) haha.

So let me know what happens and what you come up with. When you take the truck to autozone or somthing like that, they can test your entire motor electrical by connecting to the battery and alt, it will see if your distributor is acting up, battery, and alt, and its free

Best of luck, again hope some of these help narrow it down.

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01-22-2012, 03:45 PM

Burgess0909

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I will try to test the TPS over the next few days. I live in Charleston, SC, so cold means around 40-50 degrees in the morning. I only changed the engine coolant sensor during the rebuild. I just changed the air filter - dirty, but not too bad. I put new rings and seal in it 20k ago. I need to buy some tools to do a compression check. I will go to Auotzone in the next few days for a check up.

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01-22-2012, 06:35 PM

Rockaholic

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Burgess0909

Ok, keep us posted. Was just asking so many questions to see if something sparked and maybe you found it in the process haha. If you figure out what it is please let us know!

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01-26-2012, 06:46 PM

Burgess0909

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I had all of the electrical systems tested at Autozone, and they tested fine. I changes the TPS last night. The truck ran fine after the change, but would not crank at all this morning. It spins over, but never tried to fire. I plan on doing some tracing tomorrow afternoon. Any ideas?

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01-26-2012, 07:15 PM

Rockaholic

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Maybe its a bad starter? I never thought of that till you said that. Not sure if it would affect it when its first started in the cold. but now its not starting at all?Now i know this is the obvious but have you tightened the battery terminals and checked the alts connects to see if they are solid? change fuel filter? Could still not be getting enough fuel if it just never started at all and has trouble in the cold. Try replacing gas, just syphon it out and add a gallon of fresh gas. Just to see from a different gas station.

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01-26-2012, 08:40 PM

ctubutis

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I, for one, am confused...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burgess0909

...would not crank at all...It spins over....

Is the starter motor in fact turning the engine over? Or is it merely free-wheeling and NOT cranking the engine?

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01-26-2012, 10:35 PM

Rockaholic

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Was on tip of my mind.. couldn't figure out a way to explain the starter. Thx

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01-27-2012, 09:10 PM

Burgess0909

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The starter was turning the engine over, but the engine would not fire up. Well after pulling most of my hair out, I took off the TPS I recently purchased and replaced it with my old one. The engine fired right up. I have purchased a new TPS and plan to install it in the morning. I am hoping I purchased a bad part on the first round and that this will stop the stalling. The clerk asked if I had set the TPS before installing it. I am not sure he knows what he is talking about. The TPS does not appear to have a way to change the settings.
While in the parts store, the clerk also mentioned that it could be possible that the spout plug is bad. He stated that when the spout is unplugged, the computer runs a preset timing. He said I could unplug the spout to see how the truck ran, and if it ran good, I had a timing issue. Has anyone heard of this method?

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01-27-2012, 09:58 PM

1983F1503004x4

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Burgess0909

As you may or may not know, the Dodge Ram pickups from the late 90's and early 2000's are plagued with 4 common problems. 1 is the transmission going out, 2 is the rear end failing, 3 is the throttle positioning switch, and 4 is the water pump.

My grandfather has a white dodge ram with the 360 V8 in it, and his started "eating" TPS switches. He keeps buying em and they keep going bad, and the last one he bought, he put it on and the truck wouldn't even start. Turn the key on, fuel pump comes on, crank crank crank and nothing. He had it towed up to a mechanic on a rollback and the mechanic told him that the switch supposedly had to be calibrated and set.

IMO, it's a load of BS. My father had a 2001 Dodge Ram that was green with the 360, and his was eating TPS switches too. He finally found one that didn't burn up and to my knowledge, it hasn't been changed out since then.

Both of these trucks had water pumps going out. 3 times each as a matter of fact. The white one got a new radiator too. Both had the transmissions rebuilt in them, and the rear in the green one got repaired. Nary a problem with the motors though.

Moral of the story, try to buy as good a quality as you can. For our trucks, Motorcraft if possible. And if you add a new electrical component, reset the computer in the vehicle when you install a new electrical component, if possible.

We still can't figure out how a TPS could be calibrated either. Our best guess is that they just reset the computers.

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01-27-2012, 09:59 PM

ctubutis

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It will run at a per-determined timing setting without the SPOUT connected. Should run well enough for testing but I wouldn't leave it that way, the timing won't be advanced and acceleration will suck.

Yes, resetting the computer when changing it is a good idea.

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01-28-2012, 10:32 AM

Burgess0909

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I installed the new TPS this morning and left the negative battery cable of for about 15 min. The engine fired right up, but stalled less than a min later and will not fire up. I tried putting my old TPS back on, but the engine would not fire using it either.
I tried checking for codes the manual way, but it would not start the cycle. The fuel pumps would stay running, and the CEL would stay light. After 20 min of attempting to get the code cycle to start, it finally ran. I got all systems pass in current and a 512 in continues. This issue is light playing wack-a-mole. Every time I think I am on to it, I get a new symptom. I am going to look for the computer to see if my harness has a good connection. Any other ideas?

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