Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Slow crank

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-06-2012, 01:13 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Slow crank

I have a 93 f150 4.9 I replaced starter,batt,cleaned connections it cranks slow sometimes gotta jump it to start it also replaced battery terminals any help please?
 
  #2  
Old 01-06-2012, 02:21 PM
subford's Avatar
subford
subford is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Easton,Ks
Posts: 23,609
Likes: 0
Received 231 Likes on 180 Posts
You need to check the voltage at the battery posts while the engine is running. Should be around 13.6 - 14 VDC.
Sounds like a low battery charge.
 
  #3  
Old 01-06-2012, 02:58 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
I took the battery out and put in another truck it cranks fine just wont crank mine?
 
  #4  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:33 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Its cranks fast and starts fine if its cold if its warm it cranks very slow??
 
  #5  
Old 01-09-2012, 04:13 PM
mpc07005's Avatar
mpc07005
mpc07005 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Milford, CT
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What was the other truck? Still check with a multimeter. By cold do you mean a cold day or motor (I'm assuming cold motor, but thought I'd check)? Is it taking a long time to start or turning over slowly (turning slow implies a longer start duration)? Try swapping another battery in, and see if it still cranks slow. Engines should be easier to turn when warm, not cold. What's the oil like? I'll try to think of what would cause that (only thing that comes to mind is a very overzealous injector, but there are no other apparent symptoms).
-Mike
 
  #6  
Old 01-09-2012, 05:57 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Ive changed the battery and yes cold motor changeed starter and batt terminals cleaned all connections ? Short somewhere maybe but wouldnt it do it cold or warm?
 
  #7  
Old 01-09-2012, 07:21 PM
88n94's Avatar
88n94
88n94 is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,006
Likes: 0
Received 125 Likes on 108 Posts
I would take a remote starter switch and hook it direct to the starter. ie one terminal of the remote starter switch on the large battery cable terminal and one terminal on the small electrical bolt. You could do the same thing by taking a screwdriver and connecting those two terminals, but this would be safer. That would bypass a lot of stuff. Just for troubleshooting of course. Do you have a manual or an automatic transmission?
 
  #8  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:11 PM
rla2005's Avatar
rla2005
rla2005 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 19,599
Received 1,172 Likes on 926 Posts
Which "connections" did you clean? A poor ground connection at the block can manifest itself as you have described. Sometimes a battery cable will develop corrosion under the insulation. Something else to look for.
 
  #9  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:20 PM
73'360f100's Avatar
73'360f100
73'360f100 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Newnan,Ga
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I would redo all of your grounds with some good quality welding cable. Bad grounds can cause slow starting and I can almost guarantee that you could use new grounds.
 
  #10  
Old 01-09-2012, 09:24 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Ill try new grounds I put a new one from neg batt post to fender and also crossed the screwdriver trick still nothing
 
  #11  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:43 AM
rla2005's Avatar
rla2005
rla2005 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 19,599
Received 1,172 Likes on 926 Posts
You need to focus on the ground from the battery to the engine block.
 
  #12  
Old 01-10-2012, 02:39 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
The neg cable runs to the starter?
 
  #13  
Old 01-10-2012, 03:01 PM
rla2005's Avatar
rla2005
rla2005 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 19,599
Received 1,172 Likes on 926 Posts
The negative cable runs to the engine block, not the starter. Your truck may or may not have the extra tab that also connects to the frame.

Take a look at Post #9 in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9965674

Bill has some great photos of where the grounds are.
 
  #14  
Old 01-10-2012, 03:36 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94
rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
None of my trucks have an engine ground all go to the bottom starter bolt its i6 not v8
 
  #15  
Old 01-10-2012, 04:41 PM
andym's Avatar
andym
andym is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Bonita Springs FL
Posts: 19,402
Received 28 Likes on 28 Posts
Originally Posted by rangergirl94
Ill try new grounds I put a new one from neg batt post to fender and also crossed the screwdriver trick still nothing
You did what? The negative cable runs from the battery to the starter bolt. The positive cable runs from the battery to the relay to the starter.

Also, when you say you put a new ground on, what exactly did you replace? Just the end of the cable? I have had terrible luck with just the ends. Replace the whole cable with a one-piece molded cable. They work much better.

I really think that your battery cables are shot. It's a common problem on older vehicles. The cable insulation dries out, cracks and deteriorates. This lets water in which corrodes the cables are reduces their current-carrying capacity.

You've replaced everything else. Spend $20 and put new cables on it - the thickest ones you can find - and I bet your problem goes away.

One other thing - what's your base timing set to?
 


Quick Reply: Slow crank



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:23 PM.