Need Help- Tie Rod Ends
#1
Need Help- Tie Rod Ends
Hello, I am new to the forum and need some words of wisdom from those of you who have done this before.
I am replacing the outer tie rod ends on a 1959 F-250 and I was able to get the bolts out, but I can't seem to get the actual tie rod ends out. Suggestions, tips or how to links would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I am replacing the outer tie rod ends on a 1959 F-250 and I was able to get the bolts out, but I can't seem to get the actual tie rod ends out. Suggestions, tips or how to links would be appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
By getting the bolts out, are you reffering to the bolts in the clamps around the sleeves? So now you can't spin the tie rod ends out of the sleeves?
Have you sprayed them with any type of penetrant such as PB Blaster. I usually clean anything that I am trying to get apart up with a wire brush first to get most of the crud out of the way first. Then spray with penetrant. With the sleeves, an extra little trick can be to hit opposite sides of the sleeve at the same time with a hammer. This will open them up a little. Of course a good "hot wrench", will also do the trick (a torch). Heat only the sleeve to expand it and have your pipe wrenches all set to the right size so you can give them a go as soon as you put the torch down. Make sure you wear gloves for this one.
If you don't have a decent torch set yet, you might want to make an investment as torches can provide the coaching that many a stuck part will respond to.
Have you sprayed them with any type of penetrant such as PB Blaster. I usually clean anything that I am trying to get apart up with a wire brush first to get most of the crud out of the way first. Then spray with penetrant. With the sleeves, an extra little trick can be to hit opposite sides of the sleeve at the same time with a hammer. This will open them up a little. Of course a good "hot wrench", will also do the trick (a torch). Heat only the sleeve to expand it and have your pipe wrenches all set to the right size so you can give them a go as soon as you put the torch down. Make sure you wear gloves for this one.
If you don't have a decent torch set yet, you might want to make an investment as torches can provide the coaching that many a stuck part will respond to.
#3
#4
Everything Spuredon said, but do you realize they are threaded into the tube? The clamp you removed tightens up the tube around the thread so it won't accidently unscrew.Is the assembly still on the truck? If you are working on it off the truck, keep in mind there is one right hand thread and one left hand. You will need a 'pickle fork' to remove the ends from the steering arms. You may have already done this. My whole tie rod assembly fell off on one side while I was rolling the truck off my tilt trailer because someone in the past had removed he castleated nuts and cotter pins, but I think you're gonna need one. If you can't buy an oxy-aceteylene set right now, get a regular propane type torch and a yellow mapp gas cylinder. Gets pretty hot and it worked for me for for a long time. Take your time and be thorough. Check for safety issues like missing nuts before you drive it again. At the risk of sounding like a 58 yr old 'old guy', I still shudder at what might have happened if I just got the 59 to run and then taken off roaring through the countryside to show my new find to my buddies like I have done somany times in the past. Oh what a feeling when when the front wheels suddenly have a mind of their own. Keep us informed how it's going and good luck!
#5
Everything Spuredon said, but do you realize they are threaded into the tube? The clamp you removed tightens up the tube around the thread so it won't accidently unscrew.Is the assembly still on the truck? If you are working on it off the truck, keep in mind there is one right hand thread and one left hand. You will need a 'pickle fork' to remove the ends from the steering arms. You may have already done this. My whole tie rod assembly fell off on one side while I was rolling the truck off my tilt trailer because someone in the past had removed he castleated nuts and cotter pins, but I think you're gonna need one. If you can't buy an oxy-aceteylene set right now, get a regular propane type torch and a yellow mapp gas cylinder. Gets pretty hot and it worked for me for for a long time. Take your time and be thorough. Check for safety issues like missing nuts before you drive it again. At the risk of sounding like a 58 yr old 'old guy', I still shudder at what might have happened if I just got the 59 to run and then taken off roaring through the countryside to show my new find to my buddies like I have done somany times in the past. Oh what a feeling when when the front wheels suddenly have a mind of their own. Keep us informed how it's going and good luck!
MConnelly, you will have to set the toe in after you change them out. Not a super hard job but can be painstaking. Very essential though.
#6
Thank you both for all of your help. I fought the ends for about an hour and still couldn't get them out. I will have to pick up the tools and I will update you when I have the tie rod ends freed and replaced. I just can't wait to get this thing completed. It's so much harder when I am trying to keep the original engine rather than dropping in a small block. Should have her running here soon.
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Skandocious
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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02-25-2007 08:02 AM