I know I will have to loosen the nut and then use a flathead driver and turn but my steering still feels a little loose even with my new steering shaft. How can I go along and make the steering tighter by adjusting the box? Do I turn the screw left or right or what?!

 

After loosening the nut, you'll probably have to put a combo wrench on it so you can turn the bolt with a screwdriver without turning the nut. Hard to describe, you'll figure it out. Turning right will tighten everything up. Do a little at a time, and then turn the wheel lock to lock to make sure it doesn't bind.

 

Make sure it's full of grease. If you can't adjust the slack out easily, it's time to rebuild or replace the box. They don't last forever.

 

The adjuster screw is setting the position of the sector shaft in the box, the sector shaft has tapered teeth on it so the backlash between the worm and the sector changes as the sector is adjusted, most of the wear occurs where the wheels are aimed straight forward, whenever you adjust the box, make sure you crank the steering to the stops in both directions, snug in the middle may be too tight at the ends, i like to put the front axle up on jack stands and do it with the engine off, the power steering boost makes it hard to feel it binding.

 

If you get it too tight it will have memory steer, that is where when you turn the wheel slightly off center when driving straight it wont return to center.

 

Not sure which box you have, but first you need to adjust the preload on the worm gear shaft. Once that is okay, then check your sector shaft backlash. I'm not sure of the specs cos I'm out of town right now, you'd have to look in your Haynes manual or something.

 

Well I turned it to the right some; seems a little better but still wondering some; I probably didn't turn it enough or done it right. Will carry it to a mechanic in the morning- IF they are open.

Thanks guys.

 

Adusting will get some slop out but won't fully compensate for wear. I've been able to get "a little better" by adjusting but never "just right". Too much adjustment will hurt the box and cause other problems. It may be time for a rebuilt box.

 

Well I got a new steering gear box but I just came back from the mechanics. They say the box is good. They pointed out that my worn out shocks would be a problem and there is like a center link (but it's connected to the axles instead of the steering components) that moves...looks like the bushings in it are worn out. Will that cause a problem?

I am also running 38s and they mention I have a small steering wheel which could cause it to feel weird.

 

Any bushing in the front end can cause problems. Each little bit of play compounds things. The fact you're running 38's is going to hard on everything and make any weakness show up more. Even with everything in good working order, properly aligned, type tire and air pressure can cause wandering.

 

Well; looks like I need to get some new front shocks and get them little bushings for that bar (don't know what that bar is called)

 

 

Good day,
Also following this thread. Does anyone perhaps have a diagrammatic instruction guide on how to follow this process?
Would appreciate that.

thanks

 

NOTE: SO YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Here are 2 FTE member ideas on how to do it. READ the red caution about doing this improperly can damage the steering box or make you steering FAIL.

"For the steering box adjustment #1 Start by adjusting the slack adjuster - it will be a locknut over what appears to be a bolt with a screwdriver slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot to hold it and back off the locknut. Slowly turn the screwdriver clockwise while rotating the steering shaftback and forth until there's very little to no play. Hold adjustment bolt and tighten the locknut. With power steering this is done with the engine running. Once the slack is adjusted out of the steering box, look at the top of the steering column (still under the hood) under the master cylinder. There's a heavy fiber washer (sometimes referred to as a rag joint) (1/2 ton only) that makes a coupling in the column, usually this is worn out and the cause for excessive steering play.

Steering adj #2 all you have to do is on the steering box you will see a threaded screw with a jamb nut keeping it locked down. put a screw driver on the screw and loosen the jamb nut, then with the jamb nut loose , tighten the screw till it stopes, then back off counter clockwise for one full turn, then holding the screw, lock down the jamb nut. take the truck for a ride and see how it feels, if it is still too sloppy, loosen the jamb nut and turn clockwise a quarter of a turn and retighten the jamb nut. if the steering is too hard or feels like its binding , hold the jamb nut and loosen the set screw a quarter of a turn from your initial setting."

http://wcb4x4.com/tech/rcshopman1.pdf

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...just-it-2.html

http://www.stangerssite.com/KnowSteeringBox.html

https://www.broncozone.com/threads/p...-bronco.25217/

This screw/lock-down nut is for setting the pre-load on a new, or low milage box. Moving this screw on a high mile (sloppy steering) box is not recommended.

If your box is bad, it is bad, just get a Red Head or Blue Top and get on down the road safely.

 

Question, I is there any diffeence between a manual and power steer installment/ adjustment?
I have a manual, RHD box, as Im livining in South Africa.