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adding front lock-right locker to 2004 F350

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  #1  
Old 12-22-2011, 10:13 AM
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adding front lock-right locker to 2004 F350

ok i tried some searching but found nothing on front lockers. I aded 4.30 gears, new bearings and seale, and a new clutch pack just about two years ago. I wanted a ARB rear locker but didnt have the money then and dont have it now so i was looking online at lock-right lockers to put in the front Dana 60 on my F350. Has anyone installed one in a D60 before and is it as easy as they say? remove spider gears and drop in the lunchbox and your done? Im doing this because im sick of almost getting stuck all the time hunting from the crappy rear LS diff, and like i said i dont have another grand to go put the ARB in the rear.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:39 PM
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Yes, they are easier to install than most lockers as they do not change the gear tooth alignments so there is no need to re-align. Assuming the existing alignment was OK.

But, having used Lock-Rights in other vehicles, I will caution you to research and understand their quirks and limitations.

They do work, they're very inexpensive, and they are a true locker. But, they always lock whenever power is being applied and unlock whenever coasting. The locking or unlocking is sometimes accompanied with loud and unsettling noises. Banging, snapping, or shotgun shot noises can be startling. Can sound like something just broke in a dramatic way. You will get used to it, but warn others!
The other negative is they always lock when power is applied. Neat because it is automatic. Much like a Detroit.
If a decent traction surface, it makes truck lurch and buck around. Feels like something broke.
Locked front axles make steering on high traction surfaces (like rocks) very, very difficult.

My worst gripe was they are not so neat when you're trying to traverse along a slippery side slope (mud or ice). When both tires spin, the truck slides sideways. Instantly. Into the trees or rocks (or traffic lane) below you.
At times like that, you really want a selectable locker so you can unlock and have one tire maintain grip and keep you from sliding downhill.

Personally, I would weld the spiders and use manual hubs before putting a Lock-Right in the front. Then leave one hub unlocked when I want unlocked performance, lock both bubs when I need them locked.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:24 PM
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no rocks here in NJ andi dont use 4wd on hard surfaces such as the street. wanted it for when it snows and in mud and fields when hunting or the midnight trip around some woods or dirt roads when it snows.
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 07:41 AM
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I looked back over a couple threads I commented at length on lockers, and I know you were involved in this one:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-lockers.html

Now that things are installed and I've had some more time with my truck, I can comment more on real use. I see you put a new clutch pack in your rear rather than going with the ARB right now. If that's working well, then that's awesome. So far I've been very happy with my Tru Trac, and it's more affordable than the ARB. I like the thoughtless operation, too.

I will say think very hard about having something you can't turn on/off up front. In the linked thread you seemed to be leaning towards selectable. Having driven with the front locked via my e-locker, if I had something I couldn't unlock, I would be very unhappy. It just changes the way the truck drives so much, and with the better traction in the rear (and more aggressive DuraTracs), I haven't truly needed my e-locker. I know there are people out there that are very happy with a locked front axle. I haven't personally driven something with a detroit, lock-right, or the like up front, so maybe it's not as drastic as the locked e-locker unless you are truly fighting for traction. But, when that e-locker is locked, you better be needing to go straight! IMO I feel it would take away from the flexibility of the truck.

I understand the heartache of getting stuck in BS places (same reason I put in traction aids), and I understand budgets. Not trying to hijack, just wanted to throw out my experiences. Purely opinions here.
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:47 AM
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EOD,

Did you have a Limited Slip in the rear before you installed the tru trac back there. I think my cluches are probly in need of replacement and the feeble OEM L/S kinda sucks anyway. I was looking at ARB for the rear but would like to know where you purchased your TRU Trac and how you really like it.

I installed a Tru Trac on a Jeep and it wasnt noisey but I feel it made a big difference, but havent installed one in a full size truck that Ive had the opportunity to drive.

I dont do much in the way of off roading, but with the snow, and muddy roads of the hunting camp I could see where it would help.

Thanks,

Sarge
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:20 AM
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Yeah, I had the factory LS before, and that thing was either total junk that I was overpowering, or it was toast before 60K. I am heavy, 8400lbs, so that may have had a lot to do with it. In any case, the Tru Trac was a HUGE improvement. It's not noisy at all when it grabs. I have felt it engage a couple of times, but most of the time I can't. It's so smooth I have never felt it engage in normal driving, or snow. Maybe occasionally in the rain, or if I'm at a stop and I start to spin...then I'll feel it. The biggest thing I noticed was that I don't need 4wd to back my boat up beside my house in the grass. I live on a pretty steep incline, and I destroyed my grass a couple of times before I quit even trying in 2wd. The Tru Trac fixed that. Occasionally, when I'm backing the boat into the yard, I'll feel just a hint of slippage, but it will grab quick enough it doesn't tear up any grass.

I don't do any heavy off roading, but like the OP, I got tired of getting stuck where I really shouldn't. The combination of the Tru Trac and the Dura Tracs have significantly improved my traction issues.

I let the good-ol-boy shop that did the install source the parts themselves. I think they got it from Randy's Ring and Pinion because they had an inside line. I think it cost me around $550. When I was looking around the web about 18 months ago, some places would vary as much as $300, so shop around before you commit.
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:49 AM
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was that 550 for the tru trac installed or just by itself? Because i went back to the gear shop that did my 4.30 gears and stuff and they wanted 1200 to install the true trac, another set of new bearings and the labor. I really want the ARB only because if i do go hunting or some light off roading i want to be 100% positive that the rear will be lovked up. But for the almost no off roading i do and the only thing is hunting im leaning towards the tru trac. Once this winter is over and i save some money from over time i hope i can get it this spring. Plus my BFG all terrains will be almost spent by spring and im putting a good set of mud terrain tire on and keeping them forever this time, no more "o i think an all terrain will be good enough crap"!
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:03 PM
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I have a lockright in my front its great.. If I was to do it again and if they made one I would go detroit in front. Quieter and stronger. As with both you can always unlock a hub if you are sliding sideways no need to weld the spiders to do that...Go for it..


Dick
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
was that 550 for the tru trac installed or just by itself? Because i went back to the gear shop that did my 4.30 gears and stuff and they wanted 1200 to install the true trac, another set of new bearings and the labor. I really want the ARB only because if i do go hunting or some light off roading i want to be 100% positive that the rear will be lovked up. But for the almost no off roading i do and the only thing is hunting im leaning towards the tru trac. Once this winter is over and i save some money from over time i hope i can get it this spring. Plus my BFG all terrains will be almost spent by spring and im putting a good set of mud terrain tire on and keeping them forever this time, no more "o i think an all terrain will be good enough crap"!

Detroit in the back for me or nothing.. No pumps hoses switches clutches etc..Good road manners bulletproof and quiet. What else could you want?
8 years now..with a detroit in the back and LR in front.
IMO

Dick
 
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
was that 550 for the tru trac installed or just by itself? Because i went back to the gear shop that did my 4.30 gears and stuff and they wanted 1200 to install the true trac, another set of new bearings and the labor. I really want the ARB only because if i do go hunting or some light off roading i want to be 100% positive that the rear will be lovked up. But for the almost no off roading i do and the only thing is hunting im leaning towards the tru trac. Once this winter is over and i save some money from over time i hope i can get it this spring. Plus my BFG all terrains will be almost spent by spring and im putting a good set of mud terrain tire on and keeping them forever this time, no more "o i think an all terrain will be good enough crap"!
It's hard for me to remember exactly what everything cost because I was deployed when I had it done. IIRC, the Tru Trac was around $550. Their charge for install was between $200-$300. I didn't need bearings, but if I did, it would have been another $100. So, $1200 installed seems high to me, even with bearings. If that's what they were gonna charge while they were doing your gears at the same time, they were definitely trying to rape you. As far as being truly "locked" in the rear with the Tru Trac, once it grabs (which is very fast) as long as you are applying power, it's not gonna unlock unless you break it. Being gear driven, there is no way to get slippage once it grabs.
 
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:33 PM
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ive read alot of SD owners like the Tru Trac, and i think its all i would ever need. I had a detroit locker in a old 85 F250 mud truck i had in high school with 38's and in the winter when it snowed it did nothing but slid down the road from it being fully locked, BUT i also was in high school and drove that truck like a young high school kid. I dont want to be going down the street with my two kids in the back and have the detroit spin my truck into a tree! but then again the tru trac will be locked up too so they both are going to do it if i drive like an idiot anyways??
 
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:27 PM
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Never had a problem with the detroit. I have snow tires on and weight in the back..No one should be driving on glare ice anyway..Just the other day I blocked off our street because it was dangerous icey...A lady squeezed by me and proceeded to crash her nice new car..As did hundreds of folks that day. We had to wait for the sand truck for 1 1/2 hours..A guy squeezed by me also in his new 4x4 and what a laugh he was bouncing off the sides of the road..He parked it and walked home. So much for caring for folks...

Everyone who has a detroit likes them..Simple effective..

Dick
 
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
ive read alot of SD owners like the Tru Trac, and i think its all i would ever need. I had a detroit locker in a old 85 F250 mud truck i had in high school with 38's and in the winter when it snowed it did nothing but slid down the road from it being fully locked, BUT i also was in high school and drove that truck like a young high school kid. I dont want to be going down the street with my two kids in the back and have the detroit spin my truck into a tree! but then again the tru trac will be locked up too so they both are going to do it if i drive like an idiot anyways??
Are we still talking for the front? I know this thread jumped around some between front and rear axles. It took a LOT of convincing for me to go tru trac in the rear over the detroit. The reason I did was that I heard everyone say towing with a detroit is not fun. I don't tow much, a 20ft bass boat and hope to have a trailer for my Trans-Am some day, but that made me have to stop and think. I've only driven Jeeps with detroits, and that was a white knuckle experience. I know our trucks are much heavier, and have a longer wheel base, but I wouldn't want 10% of the craziness that I experienced while I was towing anything.

I agree that everyone that has a detroit in the rear loves them, but I would say the same thing about the tru trac.
 
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:54 AM
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EOD,

I am sorry for creating the confusion and getting the thread off base, but yeah I think they are talking the front axle, I was talking rear.

Sarge
 
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:06 AM
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No problem Sarge. I hope I answered your question as well.

I just wanted to make sure everyone was talking about the same thing in the 2 posts above my last one. I was reading into it that they were talking about the rear, but as I sat there I wondered if maybe they were talking about the front.
 


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