I got a 1970 F 250 Ranger. I had a wheel cylinder go out (leaking brake fluid). I got the tire off, and removed the axle cover and took out the axle. I am having an issue removing the LARGE nut holding on the bearings and drum. Is there a special tool for the nut removal? Here is a picture of my situation! Thanks.

 

There is a special socket (2 3/8" ??). Open the tabs of the lock first. Some have used a center punch or a chisel to remove the nut. Behind the locking tab is another nut.

 

How do i open the "tabs"? What are tabs? I see there are some teeth or studs sticking out from behind the nut. I assume this is going to be a real bugger, given the chisle marks present.

 

Some of the tabs should bent around the nut on the flat part of the nut.. Use a chisel to straighten them out and pick up the proper socket. They are under 20 at the parts store.

 

Yes, there is a nut but behind that nut is a ring with locking tabs that are bent to the side of the nut to keep it from turning. Use a small chisel to bend (not cut) those tabs away from the nut. The nut will then come off. Then the ring with the tabs, then the other nut. http://fordification.com/tech/images...llFloating.jpg

 

I do beleive you boys got me on the right track. I will go to the part store and see what i can find. I wonder what part sotre in our area carries such a large socket. I will call around. THANK YOU for your feedback.

 

It is a special rounded 2 9/16" 1/2" drive socket that can be purchased for about $20. I just took my drum off this week, 2 3/8" is too small!

 

Sometimes called a "spindle nut socket" (or wrench) because it is in fact a spindle nut you're removing. Same as the front on an older four-wheel drive truck.
Also known as a "hub nut wrench" in the old days, but i think spindle nut socket will get you what you need.
Some are hex shaped as you'd expect, while others have 4 or 6 tangs and are a spanner socket for use with the common (in the front at least) round nuts with slots for the tangs.
Most parts stores won't have them in their standard socket racks, but will usually have several to select from since different trucks use different size sockets.

My F350 had a smaller than expected version because it was the lighter-duty version of the 1-ton trucks. So try to get as close as you can so you can pick, or buy a couple and ask it you can return the unused one(s) you don't need.
Luckily some have given the size above, but I never put it past Ford and Dana to use different sizes just to mess with us down the road!

Oh, and MOST DEFINITELY FIND THE CORRECT BEARING ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE FOR YOUR AXLE!
I can't stress that enough. There is a very specific procedure to get the correct bearing free-play when you do the final torque on the outer lock nut.
The desired end result is almost always between .001" and .010" of free-play. But different models and different years use very slight variations on the way to get there from here.

Good luck.

Paul

 

Hopefully not, given you'll have something that the last person to service the bearings did not have. The correct tool!
Hammer and chisel can (almost) never achieve the correct adjustment of the nuts. Luckily they can get "close enough" if done well, and with the bend-over tab type of lock, but it's still not the way to do it.
Get the socket and make the job a piece of cake.

Paul

 

As mentioned, correct socket and torque sequence are critical. Measure the nut width and get rounded socket for rounded nut if that's what you have.

Rear drum on some of these trucks can be removed without removing the hub. Even if all 1970's required removing the axle shaft, someone may have swapped the rear end. So check that to make sure.