A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)
Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C




........
end of article.
couple more things that are not included here that you need to know:
engine should be warmed up first (or i guess as long as the fast idle isn't set is all) and normal warm idle must be set to 650-700 RPM.
T-15 is the size for the small bolts.T27 for the large mounting bracket bolts.
oh,as far as test #2 there.the reason why the voltage is blank (??) is because there is non there,being that it's the ground wire of course.if you suspect a faulty ground,then you would check it for resistance i should think.
when asking for the part at an auto store,don't ask for a FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) you'll just get the deer in the headlight stare.
tell them you need a TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and their computers will find the correct part for you.

more info;
don't be concerned with the color of the FIPL/TPS you find in the stores today.if your sold one that has black plastic,this does not mean it meets the specs of the failure prone ones of yesteryear.

 

once again i would rep you but it won't let me. nice find.

 

well this has been posted here and a couple other sites too.though not nearly often enough (and i don't think ever in a devoted thread like it deserves here) as i still see people informing others to use far too low of a voltage settings.it makes the E40D shift and act like a turd lol (yes iv tried it.reminds me of the some lumy diesel timing #'s iv tried far outside fords specs too lol.) this right her makes her go right.
1-2-3-lock-4th (give her some fuel) - downshift to 3rd w/open converter to pull the load and keep rpms up (you'll feel it being perfect,open longer the more load there is on the engine so she pulls like a nice one,or sooner lock back up with little load) - lock - 4th. all with nice clean firm shifts and keeping her rpm's in the hp band.with this setup,the E40D isn't your limiting factor for rpms.that job is left for the governor on the ip.if you need 3k+ into the yellow on the tach (perfectly safe) climbing a hill w/load (like i often do) ,your going to get it (2/unlock) at will, before the truck falls on it's face.
your E40D should feel powerful like a C6 revving when required,but with the economy of the zf5 when not needed.if you feel you don't have the best of each of these transmissions,then keep adjusting until you do.

TPS adjustment is much,much,much more sensitive and far,far,far less forgiving than idi diesel timing (and even that isn't exactly horse shoes and hand grenades.) take your time.you'll know when you get it right.right from just a little wrong on your tps adjustment for this diesel engine, and the E40D either feels like a powerhouse monster or a lame excuse for a slush box with hardly any variance in between either description.
take your time to match up both idle and WOT voltages.they are both equally important.this cannot be stressed enough.
one final tip: take your time lol.you won't regret it.

 

I added some rep for you, still dont like the E4OD....

 

This should be stickied imo. Add rep for Ford

 

Would this cause my trans to shift good when cold, then start shifting harder when its warmed up?

 

nope.that would be unrelated Chris,sorry.
for help with that issue,start a new thread and im sure someone around here could lend ya a hand.

 

I think I may have a TPS issue as well...

Mine shifts too early, fast-idle doesn't work (never did), wont downshift early enough when pulling load uphill- it tries to stay in highest gear, won't downshift when I put pedal to floor either...

I think I also have a spring or something missing from my accelerator/trans linkage and the spring that is on there is real loose and just does nothing...

will get some pics and post them....

 

yes.that is a perfect symptom of a poor TPS wire connection,failed or incorrectly adjusted TPS linus.
it's very hard on your trans if not resolved quickly.it's also not good for the engine because it can cause it to lug.
it will also cause you to extremely dislike the trans as a whole because it seems like it's a worthless slug when acting like this.

 

yep
it does lug too

I actually do hate auto-slush-boxes, especially the AOD...

here's some pics-

something seems missing here??


spring's got some slack in it or no?


looks ok?


This guys having a great time or what?


My baby loaded down with 3 jugs of Juice and some scrap!
Note the front tank mess


I guess I'm gonna go back over this post, etc and do a thorough check on it
Hopefully it just needs an adjustment!

Please advise if anything is missing from linkage!!

thanks!

In the end Is this a Mack truck running on WVO!?
Mad Max-Interceptor - YouTube

 

If I got the directions right the multi-meter test is confusing...

I put the multi-meter on DC 20v (or under?), stuck the black probe in NEG battery terminal clamp, couldn't identify colored wires so lets say middle wire and wire on end on connector not blk/wht one...

middle wire flucuated between .10-.12
end wire, not blk/wht, flucated between .08, down to .04, then back up and down, etc

am I doing it right?

I'm alone so cant push pedal down and read reading

this is with key on, engine off

BTW I have a light grey TPS and connector wires look good and not hard or brittle...

also, just looked and the "set" screw where it adjusts is missing...there's an adjuster screw and a set screw right?
set screw missing...maybe it's moving around??
whatever screw is still on there is very tight and has a little lock washer...
...gonna scribe a mark on it so's I can go back before trying adjustment...will wait for further advice

 

insert negative lead of multimeter into negative battery post.
select 20v DC.
insert positive lead of multimeter into bottom wire plug without disconnecting anything.
turn the key to RUN (engine off.) turn on meter to get aprox 5V DC.
if you don't get 5 volts,then repair this plug or the wire so you do,or all effort is worthless.

next insert positive lead of multimeter into center wire plug also without disconnecting anything.while leaving throttle linkage alone,and AFTER you already set your idle speed to 650-700 rpm (with the cold advance solenoid off,or unplugged for good measure if engine is cold) tweak your TPS so you get about 1.20 V
push your throttle linkage forward to WOT so you then get aprox 4 - 4.5 V. (i didn't snap a pic of that.oops.sorry.anyway mines a bit low actually.iv got 4.0V.i should work to see if i can bump this up a tad without effecting my idle reading some more.shifts great with 4 V though fyi.)
keep tweaking the TPS until both voltages are accurate...that's the tricky part.
while doing this with an unknown mile/old TPS,slowly push the throttle wide open,looking for any dead spots with your meter.if you find any,replace the TPS asap and adjust as needed again.........actually,you know what guys.this trans is far to expensive to mess around with.if you have an unknown aged TPS,do yourself a favor and just replace it.

if your still having issues,be sure to set your meter for OHMS.
turn the key OFF (for safety of your meter) and inspect resistance between negative terminal and the top wire plug pin.repair wire if your getting too much resistance.ideally,you want 0 ohm's.i didn't test mine,so i don't know what's common.very little if anything to account for wire length...maybe,but if you clearly see high resistance,repair the wire so you have a good clean ground to your TPS.
the article didn't specify readings,they clearly skipped that and left ?? for "voltage" which is also inaccurate no less.it's like someone didn't get a chance to finish the test and they left it out lol.but you want very low,if any resistance reading there anyway.i didn't bother because my trans downshifts and upsifts flawlessly.had i an issue,i would test the ground wire.pretty basic anyway.

you must work on repairing your wires id say linus.sounds like the pcm isn't getting enough voltage,or the wires from the pcm to the tps are corroded.you've got bad/old dirty wiring there someplace.
and of course,you can't have any missing TPS screws.the two mounting screws and the two adjustment screws are vital.replace asap.

iv kinda been thinking about building my whole E40D harness myself with tinned marine grade wire with all new plugs,but since everything seems ok for me still (hard to image with a 19 yr old truck though really?) that i haven't bothered yet.
anyway,make sure you have good wires for this trans,or you'll be fighting gremlins from now until a zf5 swap.
when all working correctly,a zf5 truck with all things equal,couldn't touch you off the line from 0-60.

i wouldn't drive the truck in its current state linus,because it could cost you an engine and or trans.....though most likely over some time.it's not healthy for sure.

 

OK, check wiring better first...

will I have to adjust a new one or is it a bolt-on?

If I have to adjust either way I might as well just get a new one...

Mmmm....now I got to pick my poison where I'm gonna get one...Napa, Advance, Autozone, etc?
Advance has one for $38....probably made in Mexico...highly advanced manufacturing facilities there I hear...lol

 

I haven't owned too many autos but I've had this truck a few months and for the most part it seems to shift too early but occasionally it seems like it waits too long to shift. I don't mind the early shifts to help with fuel economy but I surely don't want that when I start doing some pulling with this rig. Does that sound related?

 

Ok good news, I got it to read out,
and bad news

voltage at bottom wire is 4.80 volts

voltage at middle is .74 and rises to 3.40 when at WOT

seems it needs tweaking...


but, as I said- if I gotta adjust a new one I'll just go get a new one...
maybe I'll practice adjustment on this one....

OK
I just did the adjustment and it reads out 1.25-1.26 and then when raising throttle lever it slowly goes up to 4.50!!
and I got my probe in better on the other wire and its reading 4.98

maybe "ill go try to drive it