The project has been stale too long, time to get on it again. While the motor is still out, I'd like to go-ahead and replace the steering gear box, brake booster and master cylinder.

I want new/reman parts. Are the parts from LMC ok? Should I just go to NAPA? On the scale of good/better/best, I'm looking for better +.

Hope to post regarding progress on my project again soon!

 

Auto zone or any of the parts houses will have what you need. Here's the rub. ...these parts are 30+ years old and have been rebuilt who knows how many times. (no matter how shiny the paint is when you open the box) I just got done putting 4 gear boxes and NINE pumps in my truck and I STILL don't have power steering. The best I did was to mount a Chevy pump to my 300 six. That got me power steering for two weeks. It just went out again tonight backing in to the driveway.

Since my truck is haunted and refuses to have power steering, you shouldn't have the trouble I've had, ...just something to keep in mind.

 

For the steering gearbox, the one to go to is Redhead Steering gear in Seattle, WA
Steering Gears | Steering Gearbox | Rack and Pinion | Red-Head Steering Gears, Inc. They are one of very, very few places that actually rebuild the steering gear, correcting design flaws.
Most of the boxes you get aren't actually rebuilt, they're resealed the so called "spray and pray" rebuilts.

 

I'd head to a wrecking yard for a booster. I picked one a couple of weeks ago off a 75 for $45 (with an MC) that had new nuts front and back and clean threads - signs of newness!). Plus the booster housing had nary a rust spot. Bring a vacuum kit (like a MityVac) with you to test on-site. I'm gonna use it for my 70 Lo-Buck Bumpside. Rebuild the MC or, if preferred, head to A-zone or Oreilly's and pick up a reman with a warranty. Napa is Ok too.

I wouldn't do LMC for MCs, wheel cylinders, nor calipers. I prefer to purchase locally available remanned parts cuz it's less hassle to exchange them if something goes wrong.

Steering box? Redhead or Benchworks.

 

I got a booster and master cylinder from NAPA about 2 years ago and installed it in my dads 77 and it works fine, if I remember right it was about 100 bucks and came as an assembly, but you still need to bench bleed the master cylinder

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the Redhead, Mike. I live about 60 miles from there, I like what I read on their site, and they're a local business, so that's where I'll buy. The booster and m/c I'll get from NAPA probably.

Is there a good paint that will stand-up to brake fluid, for the m/c, or should I just leave it "natural?

 

If I'd known about this before I replaced my M/C and Booster, I would have done the Hydroboost conversion -- https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...sion-done.html

Search the threads plenty of more info on em...

 

Give it as much protection as you can. Rusty MCs just look bad IMO.

Eastwood recently came out with a brake fluid resistant paint called Brake Gray Finally….A Brake Fluid Resistant Paint | Eastwood Blog

VHT recommends Nu-Cast enamels: Cast Aluminium (SP995), Cast Iron Grey (SP997). The Product Usage Guide for VHT spray paints from Speco Thomas

Otherwise, I'd shoot it with a high temp clear and quickly wipe up any spilled fluid ASAP. Another option is brake caliper paint.

 

You can also change over to dot5 fluid; it doesn't eat paint. It is silicone based and has a second benefit because it doesn't absorb moisture. It's more expensive and can't be mixed with other brake fluid; ie: Dot3 or Dot4.

http://www.gabma.us/docs/dot5.pdf

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