With tools and everything, I'm looking at about $3600.

Head Gasket/Oil Cooler/EGR Delete $1200
Oil Pump $800
OEM Head Gaskets (cause people said they were better than the ones I bought) $400
Air, Oil, and Fuel Filters/Oil/Coolant $220
IPC $200
IPC Connector $125
Topside Creeper $350
IPR Remover/Fuel Pressure Fittings/Remote Start Switch $150

Still better than the $8200 the dealer wanted and their price didn't include the oil pump, which would've been another $2000 on top. That's not highway robbery... that's highway rape.

In the 7 years I owned my 2000 F350 7.3L, I only ever changed the oil about ever 3-5000 miles and replaced the tires once around the 80000 mile mark. No other maintenance was ever performed. Ran like a clock. Aside from a mild cold surging issue (which may have been a leaky turbo seal), and the fact that it was two wheel drive, I'd still own it. Hindsight is always 20/20.

 

Fixed.

The ICP connector was the problem, and is probably the reason why it wasn't starting. Once replaced, I cranked it over for about 20 seconds watching the ICP go from 9 to 29. I stopped. Then cranked it again and it went from 34, to 54, 75, 91, 156, 220, 800+ and fired up. This took about 20-30 seconds.

I'm not sure why yet, but it started stumbling like I had a boost leak, so I shut it down and inspected everything under the hood. I removed and replaced the marmon clamps on the hot side, and tried to start it. The ICP was very low, and after about 20 seconds, a message flash on the odometer display panel: "TBC FAULT" and stopped. I'm guessing there's a blown fuse from what some forum posts say.

After the TBC Fault, I checked to make sure I didn't miss anything, and tried to start it again. It fired up after a long cranking period. I let it run and inspected all the turbo pipes, but don't see any issues. I took it for a drive up and down the driveway. No code and all the numbers (EOT, WT, BST, IPC) looked good. I drove it about a mile and didn't throw any codes.

But something just doesn't sound right. It sounds too high pitched. I'm not sure what it is, and without a code, I'm guessing it's probably the sound of a normal healthy 6.0, something I've never heard before. I'm also concerned about the length of time it takes for the ICP pressure to come up. Before it would fire after about 1.5 seconds. Now it takes closer to 10 seconds. Once it comes up, it's usually in the 700s. I watched it drop to 550 or so while idling down the driveway. But it was in the 1100s while on the main road.

I do still have the EGR valve connected (since I installed it as part of my troubleshooting). It's probably safe to remove that, but perhaps that is the reason why it's slow to build pressure.

 

Man thats good it started

there is air in the HPO takes a few WOT runs to get out

leave the egr valve plugged in for fan operation even if you have an EGR Deleate

load that scangauge up with gauges and start checking things out

Its A GREAT FEELING to get it started after a Majoir teardown been there before

Congrates

 

That's awesome news. A great feeling when it fires!! Probably air in the rails as Benny said. Take it out and run it for 20 - 30 minutes.

 

Good news! There is probably massive amounts of air in it.

Take it for a run, let it idle first for a few minutes and inspect for leaks or anything noticeable.

Good job! Any pictures?

 

What brand, kind of top side creeper did you buy? I may be doing my truck this winter.

 

REL Stapleton Topsider Creeper, Model# 0-00019 | Creepers | Northern Tool + Equipment

Works great, doesn't cost much, and holds my 350 lbs plus tools without bending. It's not the beefiest thing, but it did the job. I did bend one of the casters a bit, but it still works, just a little crooked. And I am near the top of it's weight capacity, and even with the creeper, you're hanging way off the end of it to get to the bolts holding the heat shield behind the turbo.

Still, I wouldn't want to have done the job without one of these. I've done an on-board air-compressor in my lifted Cherokee from the top of a step stool and it isn't nearly as nice.

A good plastic step stool is nice to have too. The creeper doesn't work well around the tires, and a 18" inch high stool allowed me to work on the Evap Core and other items a little easier.

Once you get the radiator, fan, and stator out of the way, the creeper makes a nice ladder to sit in the engine bay on top of the radiator core support.

Good luck.

 

You guys were right. I drove it to the dump and back and now it fires up without issue.

I just have a few pictures of the teardown. Nothing worth showing really. And I still need to reattach the side step and clean the greasy handprints off the fenders.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm going to have to look into that.

 

Googled the top side creeper and found it a little cheaper Rel Stapleton 100019 Topside Creeper
$207 plus about $58 shipping. If I have to go into the top again I may have to get one!

When I did my engine/EGR coolers I laid a board across the front to lay on and bought a wheel step from Northern Tools. I couldn't find the step on Northern today but did find it at Amazon.
Amazon.com: Wilmar W41039 Wheel Step: Automotive
It's rugged and adjustable. For under $50 shipped its worth it.

 

i did my head gaskets an studs without a topside creeper. i leaned over in my truck an my feet in place of batteries.my best advice to anyone doing head gaskets an studs. GET A TOPSIDE CREEPER!!!!!!!!!
your back will thank you for it. after leaning over under the hood for 12 to 14 hours working on my truck , my back hated me.

 

I had one found it useless. sold it. ymmv

 

what is ymmv?

 

Your Mileage May Vary

Cheezit - As a professional you probably have a stronger back than us amateurs!

 

I found this on another site if you want to make your own topside creeper. I made one today. It is not perfect, but it works well enough for around $20 -$30. You can also take it apart and store it.

Home made topside creeper - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com