This may have been asked before, but usually burried inside a post, and therefore hard to search. Here's the question.

Many companies sell an EGR Delete Kit. Included is a new oil cooler and all gaskets needed. Ok now, is the new replacement oil cooler the exact same piece-O-work that Ford used from the factory? Why would I not just flush and clean my non failed OEM unit. Mine has not leaked or plugged yet. OR is the new part several guys are selling "new and improved" over what my 05 rolled of the line fitted with?
Only reason I'm changing is I beleive my truck has failed at the Snap To Connect, and will not start when its warm. Therfore I have chosen to do STC, EGR delete and Oil cooler all at once as all 3 are a disaster waiting to fail.
Have already recieved the STC, 29bucks on Ebay, for genuine Ford in Ford parts bag. Cannot beat that deal.

Whadda think guys?

 

The new motorcraft/ford oil cooler has an additional row of cooling fins added. You can buy the oil cooler kit for $213 + shipping from Tousley Ford.

 

A quick visit to Tousley Ford Minnisota turned up a price of $385 before shippping to Canada. I can pick it up in town, today, from Ford for $315.89 plus 10% for taxes. Has 10 on the shelf.

Good to hear they added more fins but did they improve "flow", or do they still plug up with egr soot particles?

 

Here's the part you need from Tousely - $213 Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Even though your 05 may not seem plugged and still be within spec, I'd replace it anyways because there is no doubt some degree of crud in it and for $213 it's good insurance. Btw do you have gauges and know what your delta is?

 

I got mine from Tousley for $213 as well. The extra layer of fins does nothing really to address the problems folks are having IMO. There is currently no long term effective way to clean an oil cooler, and I wouldn't bother either. If you went through the trouble of removing it, just replace it. They aren't plugging up with EGR soot. It's the cooling side of the cooler which is clogging. Visit bulletproofdiesel.com for a better explanation and graphical aids.

Some folks have had theirs plug with casting sand, others with what looks like green goo from silicates. Mine was not plugged really, but coated with some sort of deposit that killed off the effective heat transfer:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cs-inside.html

I replaced my oil cooler, EGR cooler (with a better design from bulletproof diesel), STC fitting, dummy plugs, stand pipes, and fuel pressure regulator spring. These were all weak points on my 2005 F-250 and all is well now. i also installed a coolant filter from dieselsite.com

Having gauges (such as the ScanGauge II I use) is essential to seeing the warning signs early.

-Eric

 

I think you must have gotten the price for the complete oil cooler assy. Here's all you need: 3C3Z-6A642-CA.

 

From my research this seems to be a problem that has not been solved. Looks like 6.0 owners have to plan on doing this change about every 50 to 70k. The tumble down effect of the oil cooler plugging, causing the EGR to fail, followed by head studs and gaskets, is a compleat joke. Found some great photos of failed coolers that had been "cut away" to show just whats going on in there. SHAME on International for the poor design. Good on Ford for dumping IH. Too bad so many of us got caught up in the firestorm.
Now could somebody please design a retrofit that will go 300k!
Sorry but I'm a bit upset. Love and baby my truck but kinda choked about a $2500 repair coming up at 140,000 Kilos.

 

There is a solid alternative...

BulletProof Engine Oil Systems

I have this on my truck and love it... I don't worry about popping an oil cooler, or it getting clogged. No more EGR cooler worries either...

It is pricey though...

 

well this has been on my mind a lot lately, with the new (to me) 2005 6.0L I just got. I've been doing an awful lot of reading on this topic.

From my reading, I don't think it's correct to say this has not been solved. Adding a filter, getting the cooling system cleaned out with chemical flushes, replacing the cooler and switching to Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant with changes every 2 years, is the currently popular plan. I don't guess we have much data to say for sure, but we expect it will solve this problem on stock trucks. It is customary while in there, to fix the STC fitting, stand pipes and dummy plugs, IPR screen, clean the turbo, and most will replace the EGR cooler with a BPD or a delete.

I'm not there yet, I backflushed my system and switched to ELC and got a 45° temp delta down to 15°. I have not 'solved' the problem yet, but I don't feel like I'm killing my truck while I prepare for a few months to do this work. But, this is only a daily driver, I don't tow or make long highway drives. That would make me hurry more. I plan to go to either a BPD or a new OEM EGR cooler and a new stock oil cooler.

There is the BPD oil cooler solution if you want to go to a design that does not suffer these problems. It's not cheap by a long shot but you don't have to worry about it ever again. It removes the relationship between oil and coolant, which can be a setback all by itself in some folks' estimation, but it does solve the big problem.

 

There is a company called IPR Research who makes a factory style oil cooler that has larger coolant passages so it shouldn't stop up like the factory one does. I paid 350 for one of them. I don't know what my temp spread is yet because I haven't gottin to drive it very much yet, just around in town. But as soon as I get a chance to do a good long drive on it. I will report my temp spread.

 

very interested to hear what your delta is. Please post up when you find out.

 

I will. It will more than likely be a few weeks before I can check my temp spread because it now needs a water pump an I am a truck driver. So I'm not home much. But as soon as I get her all back together an get a chance to check temps I will post back my findings. I'm sure they r going to be over the 15* spread that ford recomments.

 

I also have a plugged oil cooler and have considered getting one of bullet proofs air cooled coolers but are they effective at keeping the temps down? My current oil cooler which was replaced about 20,000 miles ago now goes up to 245 degrees when towing heavy up steep hills. Is the air cooled cooler that much more effective.

 

Did whoever changed your oil cooler flush your coolant system out before installing new oil cooler. If not then that maybe why your new oil cooler is stopping up again.

There are people one here who have the very pricey bullet proof oil cooler an say they love it. I,one the other hand,could not afford it when I changed mine. I did a coolant flush with restore an VC-9 on my truck before I installed new oil cooler.
Restore give the gummy silicates out that the ford gold antifreeze leaves. An the VC-9 is a ford block cleaner. I was amazed at the VERY NASTY stuff that came out. I know now why oil coolers stop up.

 

I would say just as effective as the OEM oil cooler is, and more so in the cooler months. This summer my oil temp got to 234 pulling a 32' triple axle camper down I-10 at about 70 mph in the Gulf Coast hot humid air. The coolant temp was at 220 or so. Ambient was about 97 if I remember right. The fan would kick on and pull temps down when needed. It was fun to see how that computer worked to manage the temps, very interesting.

It seems to me the oil cooler (radiator) is sized right. The only thing that I think is a con to the system is the 6 extra connections outside of the engine that my engine oil passes through. The hoses and connections are high quality hydraulic hoses and there has not been a spot of oil on any connector. I checked regularly after the install.

Oh, and I guess the other con is the price. I installed the stuff myself after doing a ton of reading and video watching. Thank you Mark for that spreadsheet... If I didn't think I could have done the install myself, I would have never bought the thing and gone with the OEM cooler. I haven't really worked on engines that much. I'm really a techy that loves to learn and figure stuff out, so I took it as a challenge to work through everything and now I'm very happy with a well engineered and thought-out product. It took me two weekends to install and when I started I didn't know where the turbo was.

Not trying to sell anyone on it, just my thoughts...