I did some probing today to check out the passages of the turbo pedestal so I could plug it off and leave the solenoid plugged in.

What I found leads me to believe everyone that has been unplugging their solenoid so it "doesn't flood the actuator chamber" is wrong.

Using an led probe going into the oil feed passage from the engine I found that there is a jetted passage to the ebpv cavity right off the bat! The other passage in the chamber goes to the front of the pedestal to the solenoid. From the solenoid the oil gets dumped into the oil return passage. So what happens is the oil is continually flowing threw the ebpv actuator camber via the oil feed passage jet. The oil flows continually threw the solenoid and into the dump passage. When the solenoid is triggered the oil passage to the dump is cut off so oil cannot flow out of the actuator chamber. The oil still feeds in threw the jetted passage building pressure pushing the plunger and closing the ebpv. When the solenoid is opened back up the oil flows out of the chamber and dumped into the return oil passage to the motor.

Pics: In the oil feed passage from the motor



The jetted passage to the ebpv actuator


And to the turbo


Oil passage leaving the actuator chamber



here you can see the tooling (drill) passage from the actuator chamber and the passage up to the solenoid



Oil leaves the turbo


Collects/junctions with the oil leaving the ebpv actuator chamber via solenoid


The oil return also passages with the low pressure side of the ebpv actuator chamber. This also brings up another point about the gut and plug most have been doing. With the plunger gone the oil is still flowing in the jetted passage, across the chamber and dumping into the oil return passage. So just plugging the hole for the actuator arm and leaving the solenoid plugged in will not flood the chamber any more then it already is when activated.



So what I simply did was plug the actuator arm hole like documented before but I also welded up the jetted port to the actuator chamber. If needed it can be drilled out and used again. No need to dump the oil in there any more. With the solenoid still plugged in all it will be doing now is just opening closing or opening up a second oil return passage for the turbo. No need for resistors or codes.

Pic of jetted oil feed passage to the actuator chamber


Welded up, this port could also be drilled, tapped, and plugged, or the right size ball bearing could be pressed in, etc.


And the plug, yes I wiped after the pic, wanted to show I used a sealer because you can't see it after wiping.

 

Oh, also wanted to note that it is possible that if there is some oil at your actuator rod it could be blowby from the engine and not a plunger leak.

 

Dumb question here but can you explain to me the advantage of doing this mod?

 

In my case a cheap fix to a leaking EBPV actuator, along with this if you gut the exhaust housing I hear you can expect lower egt's.

 

My only comment is, is there a chance the weld could come loose? That would be bad. I found a CHEAP non-EBV pedestal, so I used that. Plus, depending on how this winter goes with no EBV, I still have my stock EBV Pedestal that I can rebuild if need be.

Great write-up!

 

Worst case scenario is the weld breaks out, washes down the the return port to the bottom of the oil pan and gets stuck in the pickup screen or makes its way threw the pump and gets stuck in the filter.

I don't think my weld will fall out, I've been doing stuff like this for awhile. I can't vouch for others aluminum welds though. :P

The easiest without a welder would be the right size ball bearing and press it in or push it in and punch the rim to keep it in. Other option would be to drill the hole out a bit bigger and all the way threw then tap it and plug it.

 

Great idea! I like the thought of not having a 5oz dead chamber of oil! That's the only reason I used the van ped! I never thought of doing the mod like this, Reps your way! Rep Police won't let me someone please hit Snowseaker for me!
Jim & fat Monty

 

I use the Van pedestal too, mainly because I have a van.
But anyway I did the EBPV elimination too. Pulled the plunger, tapped and screwed in a plug and I also keep my sending unit plugged in, always have always will. I never had a problem or a light come on.

 

Thanks for the compliments and reps guys! I just wanted to fully understand the part before just plugging holes and unplugging wires.


Working on the dead head fuel system now. Our Earls fittings guy retired and no one took over the shop so it is harder for me to find good fittings for stuff like this. On the other hand it does save me money though. It was to easy before to just run down the street and spend $100+ at a time for AN fittings and braided line.

 

Reps sent! Got him for you (and me too)

 

Just wanted to pass the link here in case some are interested. The fuel side of this truck.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-update-2.html

 

Anybody know the different heights between the early pedistal and the late one. I just got one from a freind and want to know if its right before I take mine apart. I am updating mine from early to late model. Thanks, Chet

 

Thanks for posting this information.
I already have the van pedastal now, but it's always good to know a better (less expensive) way.

 

I think I understand your post correctly, please confirm (sooner the better - I hope to do this tomorrow if possible) . Plugging the little inlet hole like you did will eliminate the danger of robbing oil from the turbo like some have complained about, correct? Just want to make sure ... !! I am very handy in the shop and can do this in 5 min. but I don't want to take any risks either. BTW when this goes out like mine just did it really goes - lost a quart in a matter of min.

 

This is one way of preventing the oil starvation, previous to this thread many(myself included) would gut the valve plug the hole where the rod comes out by tapping and adding a 1/4 plug, then to prevent starvation leave the solenoid unplugged. This only throws a soft code, but can be eliminated with a 1/2 Watt 470 Ohm resistor wired into the plug.