Easiest Way To Turn Off ABS Light? (Unit is already bypassed)
#1
Easiest Way To Turn Off ABS Light? (Unit is already bypassed)
Hi
I recently bypassed my ABS unit ( inside the left frame) with a small piece of brake line and some adapter fittings due to problems with the RABS system. The brake warning light and the ABS light had been coming on and the rear brakes were dragging. ('94 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 AT 130k miles).
The bypass solved my problems, and after unplugging the bypassed ABS unit, the ABS light never came back on, to my delight.
Now, after about 600 miles, the ABS light has come back on! The system is bypassed at the brake lines and the unit is unplugged and it's disabled, so does someone know the *easiest* way to kill the ABS warning light in the dash? The light is aggravating at night.
I'm hoping there's a wire I can cut or a connector that I can pull to solve the problem. I've already pulled the fuse with no success, and tape over the instrument cluster isn't a good option.
If removing the bulb is the best solution, is it a difficult chore to get the instrument pod out to remove the bulb?
Thanks in advance.
I recently bypassed my ABS unit ( inside the left frame) with a small piece of brake line and some adapter fittings due to problems with the RABS system. The brake warning light and the ABS light had been coming on and the rear brakes were dragging. ('94 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 AT 130k miles).
The bypass solved my problems, and after unplugging the bypassed ABS unit, the ABS light never came back on, to my delight.
Now, after about 600 miles, the ABS light has come back on! The system is bypassed at the brake lines and the unit is unplugged and it's disabled, so does someone know the *easiest* way to kill the ABS warning light in the dash? The light is aggravating at night.
I'm hoping there's a wire I can cut or a connector that I can pull to solve the problem. I've already pulled the fuse with no success, and tape over the instrument cluster isn't a good option.
If removing the bulb is the best solution, is it a difficult chore to get the instrument pod out to remove the bulb?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Installing An OEM Tachometer In A 1992-1996 F-150 Or Bronco .: Articles Click on this link for instructions on removing the cluster if you need to remove the bulb.
However maybe try unplugging the RABS computer which should be behind the glovebox.
However maybe try unplugging the RABS computer which should be behind the glovebox.
#4
The RABS is a little black box about 4" x 6"...Can't miss it...
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#8
My local Autozone had a 8" piece of brake line with the proper size male fittings on both ends, and they had a brass coupler to fit each size. I simply removed the brake lines from the RABS valve and installed the small brake line with the couplers where the RABS valve would have been, then bled the brakes. (O'reilly has the same parts).
I unplugged the connector from the RABS valve and then pulled the fuse from the fuse block, and then after reading the much appreciated recommendations in this thread, I unplugged the RABS box behind the glove box.
Now I have absolutely no RABS and no light on in the dash.
It seems to me that to gut out the valve, one would have to disconnect the brake lines, etc., remove the valve and gut it if possible, reinstall the unit and the lines and then bleed the system anyway. For about $10 in parts and a little bit of time, I was done.
#10
Both lights came on and my rear brakes started dragging. After cooling down and sitting for a while, the brakes loosened up, but the lights stayed on. I disconnected the plug at the RABS hydraulic unit and the lights went out and I was able to make it home without dragging the brakes. At home, I bypassed the hydraulic unit and all was good for a while, but then the ABS light only came back on. Unplugging the unit behind the glove box solved that.
Based on that experience, I'd recommend a bypass and unplug everything. It seems to me that unplugging only won't prevent the hydraulic unit from causing the brakes to drag some day.
Additionally, I should mention that I now have much more and much firmer brake pedal. The pedal used to go almost to the floor on hard braking and felt squishy. I believe the system bleeds better without having to bleed the RABS unit.
I'm in the process of buying a 1996 motorhome on the Ford E350 chassis with RABS. The RABS unit bypass will be first on my agenda if the deal goes through and it ends up in my driveway.
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#12
As far as "driving like an old man", my driving might be described the same way, but I figure trucks had been made for more years without RABS than with, and I've survived quite well in the ones that I used to have, so I can get along without it. Having said that, I'm sure RABS would be a good thing if it worked and was reliable (and inexpensive to maintain). I absolutely know that full four wheel ABS is absolutely fantastic as I've experienced the benefits first-hand several times in two cars that I own.
I'm not sure what would cause the wheelhop in your situation.
#14
The unit is located under the truck on the vehicle frame on the driver's side. Follow the brake line down from the master cylinder and you'll find it.