I figured that seeing that this has come more often, and that I have replaced the fuel pump on my Ranger several times, I would put some pics and tips up, making it a little more detailed for the next guy. It is easier to lift the bed and remove the fuel pump, instead of dropping the fuel tank..

Tools needed:
- T-50 Torque Bit socket
- Fuel line removal tool
- Flathead screwdrivers
- Sockets and ratchet
- Jack
- Blocks


Dont mind the window motors.. that was another project.. lol

There are 6 bed bolts. They use the torque bit socket. A can of liuqid wrench also helps! Unbolt and remove the bolts on the driver side, while just loosening the passenger side ones.


Once the bed bolts are removed and loosened, there is a bed support bar in the wheel well on the drivers side that can be removed. I want to say this is a 13mm..



After the bar has been removed, the bed can be jacked up..


On either the front part of the spring or the rear, the jack can be placed, to start lifting the bed on the drivers side. I prefer behind the rear wheel on the spring as it gives more room to work with.



You may have to use blocks if the jack isnt tall enough. All you want to do is jack the bed up enough that it barely stretches the filler neck. This should be enough to give you working room....


At this point, make sure the vehicle BATTERY has been DISCONNECTED. Also, relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail pressure relief valve. Once both has been done, the fuel lines can be removed. Some use the fuel line tool, while some use the plastic "C" clip. This one has the plastic "C" clips. (New pump should come with new clips, so dont worry if you break them).



Now comes the FUEL PUMP connector. It clips on only one side of the connector, closest to you. Lift up and disconnect the retainer clips along the harness. This will allow you enough room to pull the plug closer to you to clean and service.

 

Now comes time to remove the fuel pump retainer ring. Using a heavy long screwdriver and a hammer, you can tap the retainer ring counter clockwise, and off of the pump like so...


Make sure to clean the surface one last time before removing the fuel pump. Prevent crud from falling into the tank..



With some twisting, slight prying, and puzzle working, the pump assembly can be removed. Take your time, it can be a challenge..


Clean the electrical connectors at the pump. There is some film that builds up on them, causing you codes later on if not serviced...


I like coating the surfaces I work with to prevent rust and corrosion. This color was used to highlight where the pump sets at for the pics...


Make sure to clean the connector to the fuel pump assembly VERY WELL! Use lots of Dielectric grease too...



Dont forget to clean the pump side as well.. The prongs can use a good scraping and brushing, giving solid contact surface!


Hook your lines and connectors back up!


Drop the bed, put the bed support bar back on, re-install the bed bolts and tighten them up!

No more dropping fuel tanks! I did this in just over 30 minutes.

 

when i did mine last summer i took out all bed bolts but the back 2 and they were just in a few threads, tilted the box like a dump bed. i was doing this when replacing the front spring hangers. in the process the fuel lie from the pump got moved enough that it cracked (was real rusty) and i started leaking fuel when running. the next day i pulled the bed completly off (6 bolts, fuel filler neck, pulled plug for tailight assy's) and changed out the fuel pump. i did have to help me a small tractor with a loader. would have been neat to have driven the ranger with no bed, but didnt try it. id recomend pulling the bed clear off any time you needed to do a fuel pump change or put on new rear spring hanger brackets.

 

I do realize this is an old old thread, but its the first that came through on my search, and its good. I believe my pump is out on my 1994, or going out.

When I turn on the ignition I do not hear the 'buzz' of the fuel pump, and then when I try to turn it over its very strong, but wont fire/turn over. I sat for awhile today, and waited, then it finally started. My only issue is how to do this "relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail pressure relief valve" I have no idea. I am very certain I can do the reest easily. Is it possible to get a response? Thanks.

 

there is a schrader valve (tire type valve) on the fuel rail. Most have a plastic tire cap over them. Just depress the valve core with a rag over top and it will bleed down.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, and educationing. I have though about this, and feel it could also be the fuel pump solenoid(?) under the hood by the fusible links. I remember that I had to have it replaced once before many, many miles back when my beautiful ole piece of Ford was acting like this also.

 

To safely bleed off fuel pressure, you can disable the fuel pump by thumping/tripping the in cabin passenger side inertia switch, or disconnect its electrical connector, or remove its under hood power relay, or the relay fuse, then crank the engine until it stops trying to run & that'll bleed off fuel pressure without spilling fuel, a fire hazzard, or disabling spark & cranking the engine which has the fuel injectors squirt & wash the cyls down with fuel & thats not nice for the engine, or oil.

 

Thank you all for the information, so far.

I have replaced the fuel pump relay on the fender well as a start, for a whole 12.99, but notice I still have an occasional "struggling" start when I start the truck at times. The other times it will start right up very healthy. It may be alot of things; a sensor (crankshaft, etc.), starter getting ready to fail, coil pack(s), plug wires, etc.

I ran a voltmeter across the battery-after cleaning the terminals-and got 12.9 volts. It's just going to be time to get it diagnosed I believe, insteadof nickel, and diming, myself to death in parts.

 

BTW, welcome to FTE.

I'm not clear on what you mean by "struggling start". Do you mean the starter is having difficulty in spinning the engine up to proper cranking speed for a start, or that it cranks ok, but the engine won't start/catch/run????

If you can be more clear, there are a number of easy to do, no cost trouble shooting steps the forum could suggest for you to try, that could help narrow down your trouble shoot.

 

Thanks pawpaw, I understand where you are coming from as well.

A 'struggling start' to me is an occasional crank of the starting sytem that sounds as if it struggles to get any fuel to turn over the motor (dirty EFI system?), but the next time I turn the key to start the motor its very strong, and turns right over with no problem at all. One out of ten is a struggling start with what seems to be not getting any fuel at all to start, and then that same one time I might get to wait half an hour to try turning it over again, and it will then start.

 

OK, next time you start it, turn the key from Off, to Run, 3-4 times, each time waiting for the fuel pump to cycle off, about 2 seconds pause at Run, (but don't go to start yet, to crank the engine), then after 3-4 off to run cycles, go to start & let us know if it'll fire right up & run.

 

Well I stopped by the friendly Oreilly store today as I passed it, and asked them to check the battery for me.

Their machine said the battery is bad-purchsed in Aug. 2005-starter, and alternator are good. Kinda makes sense since when I start it has that struggle issue, and it kills the auto programming in the radio as well, so its new battery time!

 

Yup, that sure sounds like a "tard", you know, plum wore out battery, sorta like me!!!!

Look for the longest free replacement warranty, longest reserve capacity, heaviest weight battery, at the lowest price & you'll get the most battery for the buck.

Do an online search for promo codes, bet you can find one for something like 40% off a $100 purchase, or maybe better. I found a 60% off $100 @ Advance Auto a couple of years ago & used it for a replacement battery!!!! Have recently seen a TRT41 code = $40 off $100, promo code for them, if you like their battery.

 

Wow, pawpaw, great minds think alike. I was sitting here earlier comparison shopping online for batteries, and searching for promo codes. LOL It was exhausting so I took a nap. I better get back to work.

 

Ok, new battery received, and rigged in (more to follow).

Tried your trt41 code, and it did not work. Found a 30.00 off code (RAF51112)here..

Welcome to Advance Auto Parts - Exclusive Friends & Family Offer

and used it. Got my 18.00 core charge back while installing the batery there. Had to rig it because the mounting block screw busted, it was corroded together.

Found the trt41 code here.... $40 off $100* - Advance Auto Parts

...and of course it worked AFTER my order. Punk *** code. Sometime with in the next few days I will install the battery hold down mount, so the battery doesn't walk around the engine bay.