Tow Tool. That’s what it is, a tool for towing.
So here it is in all its glory. 1985 Crew Cab Dually with 460 and 4 speed no OD. Pretty base truck. It’s got new seats, clutch, water pump, master cylinder. Following is the list of repairs. I’ve already bought/ordered most of the stuff I need. As far as the bed I don’t think I’ll be able to find a 26 year old bed around so I’ll either make a flat bed or buy a utility bed.
List of repairs
Fuel
o Rebuild Carb
o Replace all soft lines
o Fuel Pump
o Remove tanks, clean and reinstall
Exhaust
o Headers
o Dual Exhaust-H pipe and mufflers
o Remove all EGR stuff
Under hood
o Battery
o Flush Rad
o Change oil
o Air filter
o Plugs
o Cap
o Rotor
Chassis
o Shocks
o Go over steering ends
o Go over brakes
o Go over all U-Joints
Tires – Used
New Windshield
Body
o Fix all rust
o Build flat bed
o Lights
o Mud flaps

Future Mods
o Bucket Seats
o Intake
o Cam
o Wheel covers
o A/C




Pretty sure there’s a big stinking engine under all that EGR crap. It’s all going away.

 

Rims are painted black with the new/used tires, I’ll be getting chrome domes for the lug nuts. I also have 2 spares I picked up. New Windshield. Fuel tanks are cleaned out. I had a hard time finding the pickup’s because apparently my truck is a mid year truck. They went to fuel injection in mid year and mines a carb. The FI pickups have a return line and an extra contact for 12v to the intank pump.

I have replaced all the fuel lines as well as the pump.

Took all the EGR stuff off.



Yep there is a motor under all that crap.


Rebuilt the carb.







Got the headers and installed the passenger side. When I took off the driver side manifold the previous owner had already replaced the gasket only to find he broke off 2 bolts in the head. I can’t get in with an angle drill so the head comes off.

I love these old trucks. I can really get into it.

 

Head off.

 

I got the exhaust welded up. Hedman headers into 2 ½” tubes. Running to a 2 into 1 magnaflow knock off, big body muffler with a 3" outlet. Should be pretty free flowing. Sounds decent without being too loud. The stock muffler was pretty restrictive.

Got the carb tuned and running decently.

Running video.\/ \/



Once I get it up and down the road a couple times my carb genius friend is going to check to see what kind of rejetting I'll need.

The local O’Reilly’s manager found the rear fuel sender and the tank selector vavle. I’ll have it today or tomorrow. It’s got a bad ujoint so I have the rear shaft out. I’ll get the joint in then the shaft back in.

Just need to work on a bed, rear wiring and hitch.

 

Bed

Got the hitch on.

Left to do:
Stake pockets and steel "strap" for tieing down
1 more brace for the hitch area
Headache rack
1/8" on front and rear of the inside portion to sit the wood on and give it a place to screw it down
gas filler tubes
safety chain loops
mud flaps
stain and cut wood to fit
lights
paint







no it's not crooked. It's camera angle and the fact that the frame drops down lower in the front corner.

 

It was literally 100deg today so I was a little warm welding.

Stake pockets and rub rails done.
The fuel fillers are in.
I added the brace for the hitch area.
The 1/8” on the front and rear for bolting the wood down to is on as well.
Lights are on but not wired.

I had to make access for the fuel filler. I had no other way to do it that wouldn’t make the pump shut off. I started looking at other beds and they have the cutouts as well. So I don’t feel all that about it.

 

Done. Has an inspection sticker.











Tow tool - YouTube

 

I do have a question. My dual tanks are kinda screwy. When I turn off the truck the fuel siphons off the tank I was running into the other tank. So if I have the switch on the front it siphons to the rear and vice versa. It's a new switch and pickups.

Do I need some sort of check valve? Is this common and is there a fix.

 

I have never heard of that happening. I have heard of the fuel returning to the wrong tank.. but not when sitting.

Other comments:
I can't tell if you did anything about those tubes coming out of the float bowls on the carb, but if I were you I would put some caps on them or run a hose from one to the other so they aren't open to the atmosphere.

Plus, since you have already did a lot of work; I don't know if you would mind doing more or not. Since you removed all your smog stuff, you might the information at the bottom of this page helpful. Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Duraspark Swap

 

Yeah it's weird. It's only after I've run it, this gets the fuel going in a "siphon" effect. There are no return lines. So the switch just seems to act like a "T".

Yeah they are vented to the stock charcoal canister.

This is going to be an ongoing project. So thanks for the link. Eventually it'll get the interior replaced etc.

 

So I just found this. Think it would work?

3/8 Check Valve Diesel or Gas 10mm One Way Fuel Flow

 

I suppose they would work.
Ford issued external check valves as a bandaid to a similar problem years ago.
There should be a return line from the fuel pump back to the switching valve. (at least there is on my truck)

Since you have a mechanical pump all switching is done at the valve and there are no check valves in the tanks.
I've never heard of fuel transfer while the engine is not running.

I'm sure a lot of our members who live in emissions mandated states would be interested in that pile of "stuff" in your driveway.
Consider offering it up in the 'Marketplace' section of the forum.
Having a few extra $ for parts or fuel in that beast is never a bad thing.

You seem to have done a really nice job with that rig so far.
Congratulations!

 

No return line on this. Apparently it was added in '86.

That stuff in the driveway is already thrown in the garbage. It was in bad shape. The recirc stuff was rusted into the manifolds bad. The smog pumps were both seized up. etc.

 

You definitely got some work done on that. Very cool hauler.

 

Tow Tool is awesome and unique. Great job!