Okay, its an 05 6.0 with 153,000 miles. Replaced the oil cooler because of the temperature spread. Drove it into the garage and tore it down. Put it back together and it cranks and won't start. I have cranked it several times until the batteries are dead. Recharged the batteries and tried again. Installed a new IPR valve and still crank but no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and no start. Pulled the ICP sensor and just cranked it a couple of times and no oil came out of the port. I have continuity in the wires of the IPR valve. The ICP sensor reads .3 volts on my edge insight with the key on and stays that way while cranking. Tore it back down again and there is oil in the reservoir. Took the top off the HPOP and it has the updated one piece stc fitting. I have not removed the pump but I thought of replacing the stc fitting any way. I am looking for a scangauge ii now so i can get more info while cranking. The only other thing the truck did before this is it would start fine in the morning on a incline in the drive way. After getting to work and it sits on flat ground all day it would crank a few seconds long when it was time to go home. Other than that the truck has been running great.

 

Sounds like you have a leak in the high presure oil system somewhere. .3 isn't anywhere near the 500 psi you need to start (0.8 IIRC). Your on the right track with getting a SGII. That will go a long way in figuring this out. I wouldnt suggest just throwing parts at it (ie just replacing the stc for the heck of it). That can get very expensive in a hurry. Might still be that you need to crank on it more, but that doesn't sound like the case. Did you re-fill the oil valley when you did the oil cooler?

 

I did not fill the reservoir but after talking to a senior master tech with ford he said he always refills the oil through the oil filter housing so you know the reservoir is filled so I did that. I don't want to throw parts at it but the stc fitting is only 50 bucks and this way I know it is installed right. As I took the cover off the HPOP some of the bolts were loose so I know some one has been in there before. I got the truck in February with 142000 on it. Clean Oasis and carfax report.

 

I don't know. I have always filled the hpo reserve back up before putting the cooler back on and have never had a problem. All the techs that I know do it that way as well. I think you might have gotten air in the system. It will take lots of cranking to get it started if you did.

 

just ordered a scangauge ii. It will be here next week. In the mean time I will get it all put back together and just crank the crap out of it and hope its just air in the system. Thanks for the help. The only reason I did this my self was because of the great help on this forum.

 

after I did my oil cooler I forgot to fill the HPO system reservoir with oil


I cranked for no more that probably a total of 4 min and it started

It never ran the batts dead at all

I think your rght on track for a HPO leak

might as well do stand pipes and dummy plugs to they have isses 05+
and then you know there good and dont have to worrey about a hot no start down the road

 

IPR valve part number CM-5126 for '05 to '07 model years. Might want to double check.

 

I got a scangauge ii and it reads IPR duty cycle key on 14 and cranking 77.6. Not getting an Icp reading, may not of entered the xgauge code right. Reading the sync between the crank and cam shaft senors is 0. It should be one right. Ficm voltage is always 46 to 48 volts. Any ideas?

 

that ICP is the one you need

IIRC this is a good x-gauge

ICP

NAM: ICP

I dont know if it qwill show sync untill it starts maybe on a long crank

 

Finally gave in and took it to Ford. Its the low pressure oil pump. They saud something got in it and chewed up the gear. I am not sure if this was an existing problem or if it was something I did. I took great care not to drop anything into the engine. Its $1800 to replace the cover, pump, gaskets, etc. Seem to high or about right. I got on line and the cover is $371, and the shaft and rotor are $504 on fordparts.com.

 

Hope its not lifter bearings

 

I would double check the cover/pump price. You can get the gerotor gears for about $28 without replacing the whole pump assy. The cover is probably necessary but it's hard to be intelligent about the whole deal without seeing them.

I'm like Benny........I hope it's not a roller bearing from a failed lifter that ate the pump. That's a completely different can of snakes. I'd certainly want to know before I simply replaced the cover and pump.