Lost Keys
#1
Lost Keys
OK here's my problem. I'm the second owner of my 97 F150 xlt Lariat 4x4. I lost the one key that i had and need to find the key code to get a new one made. Where do I find this information other than going to a dealer? I keep hearing different things about codes or getting keys made from the vin# ...anybody know where I can get the code because I don't have a chip in the key so there isn't a need to have one programmed.
#3
#4
Locked my only set at the time in my '97 years ago and tried going the dealer route, at that time they needed a title, two forms of ID and registration to even think about making me a key. Of course two of those things were in the locked truck. I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the dealer only keeps 5 years or so of records on making keys from a VIN but I may be wrong.
#6
Lost only only ignition key, no chip, whats next
I know this has been posted somewhere but I'm desperate. It happens to be Christmas eve. I bought this truck a month ago and messed up not cutting a new key. Now lost the one and only. Whats next? The key was not a chip code key, just simple. Do I have to get the switched drilled then removed? Two dealers say they cannot go back more than 10 years with the vincode route. The truck is a 2000. Can a key be cut using the door tumblers? got to leave town for Christmas asap. Any ideas?
#7
Locked key inside f150 is simple fix, ten minutes tops
You can do yourself it in five minutes. if you have a rear slider window. Take out the rear window. Its only held in by the rubber molding. I bought some high strength window moving suction cups for 4 bucks each. First lube the molding with nothing but silicone spray. Any other lube will rot the soft rubber.
Start in an upper outside corner. Attach and pull "gently". you will see the corner start to bulge. Assist the outer lip to make it over the glass. Once she starts to slip around the glass your on your way. Only remove the amount of molding you need to create a gap big enough to use a hangar to trip the rear slider latch. If you have no rear slider, you might have to open enough to reach the door lock switch Remember, the door open switch is constant power (always live). Or handle release or even fish for the key set. It beats doing a hack job on the paint of the side doors. I got in my F-250 in less than 5 minutes. Key in ignition, battery dead, so no key-less entry and hood of course locked from cab, so no boost battery. This however might not have been an option in severe cold conditions as the rubber would have been a brick.
ANY CERTIFIED AAA TOW GUY can and will crack your drivers door for about 50 bucks up here in Canada, although we call them CAA.
Start in an upper outside corner. Attach and pull "gently". you will see the corner start to bulge. Assist the outer lip to make it over the glass. Once she starts to slip around the glass your on your way. Only remove the amount of molding you need to create a gap big enough to use a hangar to trip the rear slider latch. If you have no rear slider, you might have to open enough to reach the door lock switch Remember, the door open switch is constant power (always live). Or handle release or even fish for the key set. It beats doing a hack job on the paint of the side doors. I got in my F-250 in less than 5 minutes. Key in ignition, battery dead, so no key-less entry and hood of course locked from cab, so no boost battery. This however might not have been an option in severe cold conditions as the rubber would have been a brick.
ANY CERTIFIED AAA TOW GUY can and will crack your drivers door for about 50 bucks up here in Canada, although we call them CAA.
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#8
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#13
Door lock and ignition are not the same
Even if they look the same the ignition has more "cuts" than the door. The final cuts are guess work.
My solution. Visit a wrecker that cares more about crushing than parts. Cost for a used ignition with 2 keys, two door locks and a rear door lockset was 20 bucks. Mine came from a windstar mini van.
Next take a drill and drill the ignition. Tape the drill bit so it only goes 1 & 3/16 deep. This breaks the tabs and lets the ignition pop out without damaging the housing. Vacuum and blow out all the debris. It's all white metal and drills easy. Insert the new cylinder with the key in the slot. when it clicks remove the key. Your done with the ignition.
Next remove the door locks by slipping the u-shaped clips. Install the 2 new/used locksets. And finally remember you also got for 20 bucks a tailgate lockset. Now your tailgate, doors AND igniton are all on the same key, which they were not when you lost the darn key.
20 bucks and about 2 hours,,,,,, I'm happy!!!!
My solution. Visit a wrecker that cares more about crushing than parts. Cost for a used ignition with 2 keys, two door locks and a rear door lockset was 20 bucks. Mine came from a windstar mini van.
Next take a drill and drill the ignition. Tape the drill bit so it only goes 1 & 3/16 deep. This breaks the tabs and lets the ignition pop out without damaging the housing. Vacuum and blow out all the debris. It's all white metal and drills easy. Insert the new cylinder with the key in the slot. when it clicks remove the key. Your done with the ignition.
Next remove the door locks by slipping the u-shaped clips. Install the 2 new/used locksets. And finally remember you also got for 20 bucks a tailgate lockset. Now your tailgate, doors AND igniton are all on the same key, which they were not when you lost the darn key.
20 bucks and about 2 hours,,,,,, I'm happy!!!!
#14
Even if they look the same the ignition has more "cuts" than the door. The final cuts are guess work.
My solution. Visit a wrecker that cares more about crushing than parts. Cost for a used ignition with 2 keys, two door locks and a rear door lockset was 20 bucks. Mine came from a windstar mini van.
Next take a drill and drill the ignition. Tape the drill bit so it only goes 1 & 3/16 deep. This breaks the tabs and lets the ignition pop out without damaging the housing. Vacuum and blow out all the debris. It's all white metal and drills easy. Insert the new cylinder with the key in the slot. when it clicks remove the key. Your done with the ignition.
Next remove the door locks by slipping the u-shaped clips. Install the 2 new/used locksets. And finally remember you also got for 20 bucks a tailgate lockset. Now your tailgate, doors AND igniton are all on the same key, which they were not when you lost the darn key.
20 bucks and about 2 hours,,,,,, I'm happy!!!!
My solution. Visit a wrecker that cares more about crushing than parts. Cost for a used ignition with 2 keys, two door locks and a rear door lockset was 20 bucks. Mine came from a windstar mini van.
Next take a drill and drill the ignition. Tape the drill bit so it only goes 1 & 3/16 deep. This breaks the tabs and lets the ignition pop out without damaging the housing. Vacuum and blow out all the debris. It's all white metal and drills easy. Insert the new cylinder with the key in the slot. when it clicks remove the key. Your done with the ignition.
Next remove the door locks by slipping the u-shaped clips. Install the 2 new/used locksets. And finally remember you also got for 20 bucks a tailgate lockset. Now your tailgate, doors AND igniton are all on the same key, which they were not when you lost the darn key.
20 bucks and about 2 hours,,,,,, I'm happy!!!!
As for the drilling, this is done where the key is supposed to go, correct?
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