1989 5.8 rebuild thread with pictures

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Old 08-19-2011, 12:17 PM
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1989 5.8 rebuild thread with pictures

Okay guys, this is going to be a long thread and build but i figured i would start it. I have a 1989 ford f250 with a 6in lift and 38 inch tires, 4.10 gears and a 4 speed w/O.D. standard tranny.




REFER TO LOWER POSTS FOR MY ACTUAL BUILD.... PLANS CHANGE....ALOT

I have recently come acrossed and purchased a 89' 5.8l with "only 76,000 " miles on it for 175 dollars. I have began the tear down and am planning on a full top end rebuild.

My plans include:

.030 over bore with hot tank (336 dollars for bore, 92 dollars for hot tank at my local machine shop)
Hyper-eutectic pistons and full top end rebuild kit (Sealed Power CSMHP806-311 - Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com)
Crane Cam 444232
1.7 RR
GT 40 or Gt40P heads (any recommendations? i know there is much debate between the two and GT40P's have better flow number and are about 30 dollars cheaper rebuilt from rock auto where i would be ordering them from and i believe that my current BBK headers would work with the plug angle present on the GT40P's)
Port matching lower to upper OEM intake and lower to the GT40/P's (60-84 dollars at my machine shop)
Double Roller timing set
Under drive pulley set


I'm hoping for 300-330 horse and 400ftlbs of torque

I will update the thread with current pictures of the build soon, but for now i'm off to work


Any tips, worthwhile improvements or comments? i'm open to suggestions.


-Zach
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 05:13 PM
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Thats a awful lot for a bore & hot tank job. I'd move on.
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
Thats a awful lot for a bore & hot tank job. I'd move on.
thanks, ill probably give another shop a call tomorrow, i'll probably end up going to this shop due to closeness and the fact they build v8's regularly rather than ricers and crappy jap cars but ill definatly give some other shops a call.
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:01 PM
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Motor is currently stripped to the block but dont have any picture URL's to post of it.


My build plans have changed slightly. I have decided to go with the procomp aluminum head kit i know, communist crap which i will have ported and cleaned up, deburr exhaust ports and widen intake runners a tad. I will mostlikley be going with this kit here (sbf ford aluminum heads combo rockers v/c 289 302 351w | eBay) which comes with Valve Covers, Fully assembled heads, and 1.6 RR's. I am probably going to go with the 175cc heads unless someone else seams to think my truck could benefit from the 190's which i doubt it could especially due to my lack of cam options.

I have gotten my cam selection to these two cams:

Lunati 310A2LUN
Lunati 310A2LUN - Lunati Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

And the Crane cam 444232
Crane Cams 444232 - Crane CompuCam Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Which cam would be best? which cam would give me a slightly more lopey idle? longer duration at .50 or having more variation from intake to exhaust duration at .50?

Which cam would compliment the heads more? the lunati due to a higher lift? Are there any other cams i can consider with my Speed density set up that are any good?
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:35 PM
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I know i'm just getting carried away now, but i have also decided to go to a carb setup. its about 1075 bucks to swap over and should save me some headache and free range over any cam grind under .600 lift (max of the procomp heads valve springs... not that i was about to go with that extreme of a cam)
 
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:29 PM
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Damn, I'd love to have those heads for my motor.

I think your cam choices may have a bit too much duration for your application.

Have you looked at the comp cams xtreme energy cams? They tend to have more lift and less duration.
 
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:02 AM
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With those procomp heads if you stay with EFI you will need a better intake to get the added potential, something like the ProProducts Typhoon, and if going to a carb something like the Performer airgap. Cam options are vastly increased with a carb and something like the Comp 35-234-3 or 35-238-3 would be good choices. If you do end up trying to keep EFI the Lunati cam above is not at all suitable.. too much duration and not enough lobe seperation, the Crane however is SD EFI friendly. Add an adjustable FPR and you should be able to dial in WOT air/fuel ratios pretty well, and then the EFI system will take care of everything else.
 
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:04 PM
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thanks guys, and yes i am pretty sure i am going with the carb setup, the motor is now going to cost a pretty penny as i keep getting carried away I am looking between using the COMP Cams 35-238-3 Xtreme energy cam shaft as you mentioned or possibly even the COMP Cams 35-243-4 - Xtreme 4x4 Camshafts all though i am very open to suggestions. I want decent low end and a good mid range but i love a lopey idle. For intake manifold i'm probably going to get the Weiand Stealth and for carb possibly the demon 670 4bbl.

Open to all suggestions. Does any one have any sort of HP TQ estimate with what i have plugged in? I'm thinking 340-390 horse 420+ ftlbs? i dont know what to expect from these pro comp heads
 
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:33 PM
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Okay im going to somewhat re-write my build as it has changed from a very budget build to a year long project . I have decided to go with a .030 over 393 stroker with pro-comp aluminum heads.


Here are my current parts and specs i am looking at... still subject to change:


393 stroker kit (Forged I beams, 30cc dish pistons to keep CR under 9:5:1 if i can for crap gas, and crank)
Block hot tanked and bored .030 over
procomp 190cc heads -mild head work will be done to clean them up
1.6RR
670 truck demon 4bbl carb with vacuum secondary
Weiand Stealth intake manifold
Comp Cam 35-242-3 .512 lift 110 LSA 268/280dur -XE268H
and this basic rebuild kit... if its even worth the money Sealed Power K2056116M311 - Federal Mogul Engine Re-Ring Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
BBK over drive pully set
HEI distributor w/built in coil
Edelbrock air cleaner
New pushrods/lifters/belt/oil pan/8mm plug wires/plugs/throttle cable/fuel return line/electric choke wires... anything im missing?

Rough paper estimate i wrote up in automitive tech on a scrap sheet of paper while the teacher was rambling read 4,855 dollars. I tried to desk paper dyno it and am thinking 450-480 fly horse and 340-360RWHP
 
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by FordMuddin'
I tried to desk paper dyno it and am thinking 450-480 fly horse and 340-360RWHP
I think you already know this(if you saw my post in your other thread) but the Procomp heads arn't that good so you're only looking at 340-360 crank hp.
 
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:44 PM
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i doubt that pro comp heads would drop the fly horse 100hp... especially sense i will be taking them to get cleaned up. that seams kind of ridiculous seeing as the procomps are much better than stock or gt40p heads and ported gt40p heads would probably produce about that power wise with a 393 stroker kit. What i have heard about the procomps is that there is a lump in the exhaust ports that effects the flow which can be grinded down.
 
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:39 AM
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i ended up gettting a set of worlds products windsor Jr heads. 180cc runner, 1.94 intake, 1.60 exhaust, 58cc chamber with 1.6 gold roller rockers. 3000 miles on them. 2 or 3 of the rockers have a little gritty feeling when spinning it so i may replace a few but all in all i think a good deal for 500 dollars.

Will be going to northeast auto for my bore, hone, hot tank and decking (375 dollars total). I plan to install my own cam bearing and freeze plugs. I am going to run the SCAT 393 stroker with +24cc dish pistons with .060 head gasket for 9.52.1 cr (depending on deck hieght). For cam i am most likely going to use the comp cam 268H grind cam with either the air gap or weiand stealth intake and a 670 truck carb unless you think a 750 or similar would be more appropriate.



 
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