I am doing a water pump and was wondering how long everybody waits to fill it up with coolant. I usually wait around 30 min. thanks, Joe

 

There is NO NEED to use RTV on a water pump.

But anyway, by the time you get everything back together, you can fill it with coolant

 

I know this may come off as a smart but reply, But I would read the back of the package or tube..... Believe it or not but the producers of rtv do test their products and their recomendations would help ensure no leaks! And we both know how important that is! Lol

 

the pump is actually going on my jeep but fte answers way faster. Package only says fully cured in 24 hours but I think it all depends on the size of the contact area. thanks, Joe

 

Well I'd go by when the stuff in the tip of the tube is pretty set. Not hard but I'm sure you could judge it pretty well. And I agree with diesel brad. It should be good after you get everything back together.

 

so 3 hours at 80 degrees F was fine after all was said and done. No leaks.

 

so you dont use any sealer whatsoever when swappin a water pump. . . . . . . .

 

I ONLY thing I use on gaskets for the past 20 years http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ve_Sealant.htm
If that dont seal it, there is something else wrong. The gasket is the sealer, the Hi-tack is just to hold it in place

The ONLY place RTV belongs on an engine is where the pan gasket meets the front/rear main and where the intake sits in the front and rear of the block. It belongs NO WHERE ELSE on an engine

 

not using a sealer on the water pump bolts is whats "wrong". whether its thread sealer, rtv, or something akin to either. . .its stupid not to use it. so, to say it has no use on a water pump swap is misleading, because it is perfectly acceptable as a thread sealer since its readily available in just 'bout every DIY'ers garage drawers. as far as the rest of your above said statement, that all depends on the motor thats bein built, and the condition its in.

 

It has been proven that the proper RTV sealant when used properly and in the right conditions can be just as good if not better than using a gasket. Not including applications were using a metal gasket is vital (head, exhaust, ect...)

 

It is called thread sealant http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm

They way I look at it is. IF the FACTORY didn't use it, neither will I.

i dont know how many water pums you have changed, but i have changed more than the number of cars people will own in a LIFETIME. and i have yet had one come back

 

With all due respect:
I know you don't technically have to use RTV. But I still do. Over time parts and surfaces change. They expand and contract get jostled up and down, etc. So naturally surfaces to be sealed may not necessarily be factory smooth. Bolts and threads change as well. If you change bolts, then you are changing other dynamics.
I don't know these things for a fact, but just applying some carefully thought out speculation. I would not change a thermostat without sealant! Sealant also expands and contracts helping seal water better in my opinion.
I too have done numerous car repairs over 30 + years, and can't recall a failure from using gasket sealant. I did not use sealant on my oil pan gasket as it is rubber.
I also like sealant to hold gaskets in place when mounting and assembling and tightening.

 

Well I use RTV all the time, never failed me so long as you dont glop it on heavily. Someone dont want to use it-thier loss.

 

go back and read what i said. i dont need links to thread sealer. . . . .

rtv is readily available in the diy's garage drawers, and is perfectly fine to use as a thread sealer. . . .

changing more pumps than the amount of cars someone will own in a lifetime, isnt saying very much.

 

I agree that you don't have to use rtv. But sometimes its nice to have. I always buy the proper gaskets but I also always keep some rtv in the toolbox just in case. Never know when something might blow out in the middle of nowhere.