2007 Expedition EL Limited - Seats from 2008?
#1
2007 Expedition EL Limited - Seats from 2008?
OK,
For months I've been trying to find a second row 40/20/40 bench for ours but have had no luck. According to the VIN lookup, the interior is Stone Leather w/ perforated inserts, and we have the second row captain's chairs. I've had a few people tell me the 2008 seats are the same and will bolt in fine.
Can anyone confirm that the 2008 seats will fit fine?
TIA!
For months I've been trying to find a second row 40/20/40 bench for ours but have had no luck. According to the VIN lookup, the interior is Stone Leather w/ perforated inserts, and we have the second row captain's chairs. I've had a few people tell me the 2008 seats are the same and will bolt in fine.
Can anyone confirm that the 2008 seats will fit fine?
TIA!
#2
I think all the seats are the same the only difference is starting in 09' the rear seats were heated. I too have the 2nd row captains and I'm not sure the attachment points in the floor for the middle seat are there. I may have to pull up the carpet and see.
I love the second row captains, makes it so much easier getting in and out of the third row.
Matt
I love the second row captains, makes it so much easier getting in and out of the third row.
Matt
#4
I like the second row captains as well. We're going on a LONG road trip and have 4 adults, 2 teens, and a car seat. In the current configuration, the car seat is in the passenger side captain which means 1 adult and 2 teens in the third row.... Not too comfy.... With the 40/20/40, we can move the car seat to center position, and the teens can have the third row to themselves!
#5
#6
Unless 08s are different from 07s, I doubt you will have to remove the outboard seats to install the center (20) seat, unless of course you buy new outboard seats without the armrests, then it's a moot point. I just removed my center seat, and didn't have to touch the two outboard seats. I think I read on here that you could remove the armrests, and maybe just find someone getting rid of just the center seat. Mine's black, so I can't be of help. Plus I might want to put mine back in someday once the two car seats are gone. I just need to get around to buying the new floormats to cover up the mounting holes in the carpet.
#7
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#8
No, there were 7 separate bolts for the center. From memory I want to say 2 in front, 2 in back, 1 on one side, and 2 on the other side. But all were specific to the center seat. The outboards are mounted differently because they flip up, but the center only folds in half and can slide up. That little seat sure was heavy though.
#9
#10
#13
Update:
First off, sorry for the lack of pictures.
The seat I thought I had on the way on 7/3 fell through (actually, the place wanted $1k for the center section only!). Another place had it for $550 or $650 (forget now) and wanted another $250 for shipping.
I ended up ordering the center section seat from Spalding Auto Parts in Spokane, WA. Due to the time difference (-3 hours from me), it was a little difficult getting in contact, but it worked out well. They ended up charging me $57 for the seat, $5 for handling, and $65 for UPS since the seat when folded fit the max dimensions for UPS (yes, that's a TOTAL of $127!). I was a little worried that it was going to be beat to crap. They did send me a few pictures and were very helpful and sent more views when I asked.
The seat is a perfect match, has no damage other than a little dirt that wiped off and a little surface rust on the frame. The leather cleaned up nicely with some leather cleaner!
I've not completed the install yet (need bolts - an oversight on their part), but I did take off the arm rests from the outboard seats. Here's how:
- You don't need to take the backrest cover off or anything (like I started to do!).
- Lift the armrest to vertical and take a look in where it pivots on the seatback. Notice the black tab/bar. Put the armrest back down.
- I used a 12" Phillips screwdriver for the next part for leverage and so I wouldn't tear the leather if I slipped.
- While sitting in the third row with the second row seats in their normal position, place the side of the shank of the screwdriver in the groove where the arm rest pivots so it comes in contact with that black tab.
- I had the handle of the screwdriver all the way in flush with the back of the armrest where it rounds around to the bottom side.
- Reach under the front of the arm rest pivot with your other hand and grab the Phillips head end.
- Lift up on the screwedriver handle to compress the black bar, and while keeping pressure on it, wiggle the armrest side to side while pulling out on it.
- It should slide right off.
- You'll be left with the pivot pin that you can remove with a Torx driver, or like I did (no Torx big enough in my toolbox), just use some Vicegrips. They will unscrew from the backrest frame.
- The stop pin that keeps the arm rest level is tack welded in place. I just grabbed a couple rubber end caps from the wire closet shelving section in Lowe's/HD and stretched them over them. There is clearance enough to fold the outside and center seat without binding, but I didn't want the stop pins cutting/scuffing the center seat.
The inside sections of the seats look a little ghetto if you have the center section folded or slid forward, but you can't see the holes with the full bench, and you don't notice it too much.
Now, I found the seat via Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. There were pages of hit from all over the country, but Spaldings was one of the first to reply to emails.
I cannot stress this enough - I dealt with Shane and J.C. at Spaldings and they were absolutely the best bunch I've dealt with in a long time. I have no hesitation recommending them to anyone here. The seat was purchased on 7/7 in the afternoon, and I had it lunchtime today (7/14).
First off, sorry for the lack of pictures.
The seat I thought I had on the way on 7/3 fell through (actually, the place wanted $1k for the center section only!). Another place had it for $550 or $650 (forget now) and wanted another $250 for shipping.
I ended up ordering the center section seat from Spalding Auto Parts in Spokane, WA. Due to the time difference (-3 hours from me), it was a little difficult getting in contact, but it worked out well. They ended up charging me $57 for the seat, $5 for handling, and $65 for UPS since the seat when folded fit the max dimensions for UPS (yes, that's a TOTAL of $127!). I was a little worried that it was going to be beat to crap. They did send me a few pictures and were very helpful and sent more views when I asked.
The seat is a perfect match, has no damage other than a little dirt that wiped off and a little surface rust on the frame. The leather cleaned up nicely with some leather cleaner!
I've not completed the install yet (need bolts - an oversight on their part), but I did take off the arm rests from the outboard seats. Here's how:
- You don't need to take the backrest cover off or anything (like I started to do!).
- Lift the armrest to vertical and take a look in where it pivots on the seatback. Notice the black tab/bar. Put the armrest back down.
- I used a 12" Phillips screwdriver for the next part for leverage and so I wouldn't tear the leather if I slipped.
- While sitting in the third row with the second row seats in their normal position, place the side of the shank of the screwdriver in the groove where the arm rest pivots so it comes in contact with that black tab.
- I had the handle of the screwdriver all the way in flush with the back of the armrest where it rounds around to the bottom side.
- Reach under the front of the arm rest pivot with your other hand and grab the Phillips head end.
- Lift up on the screwedriver handle to compress the black bar, and while keeping pressure on it, wiggle the armrest side to side while pulling out on it.
- It should slide right off.
- You'll be left with the pivot pin that you can remove with a Torx driver, or like I did (no Torx big enough in my toolbox), just use some Vicegrips. They will unscrew from the backrest frame.
- The stop pin that keeps the arm rest level is tack welded in place. I just grabbed a couple rubber end caps from the wire closet shelving section in Lowe's/HD and stretched them over them. There is clearance enough to fold the outside and center seat without binding, but I didn't want the stop pins cutting/scuffing the center seat.
The inside sections of the seats look a little ghetto if you have the center section folded or slid forward, but you can't see the holes with the full bench, and you don't notice it too much.
Now, I found the seat via Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. There were pages of hit from all over the country, but Spaldings was one of the first to reply to emails.
I cannot stress this enough - I dealt with Shane and J.C. at Spaldings and they were absolutely the best bunch I've dealt with in a long time. I have no hesitation recommending them to anyone here. The seat was purchased on 7/7 in the afternoon, and I had it lunchtime today (7/14).
#14
Great post and that is impressive! I just paid that much for the captains floor mats to cover my holes.
Question for you since I'm in the opposite situation... Based on your experience with the arm rests, do you feel it would be easy to add armrests to the standard outboard bench seats? I'm guessing the frame is drilled the same as the captains, but that tack welded pin you mentioned has me worried.
Question for you since I'm in the opposite situation... Based on your experience with the arm rests, do you feel it would be easy to add armrests to the standard outboard bench seats? I'm guessing the frame is drilled the same as the captains, but that tack welded pin you mentioned has me worried.
#15