!986 Ford Ranger 2.3 COD 140 / 5-Speed / EFI

Hi,
Although I usually try to troubleshoot and repair what I can on this truck with no mechanical training whatsoever, for some reason, I never came across this in all the years of owning this truck.
The problem?
Sometimes it turns over, and sometimes turning the key in the ignition and NOTHING.

I have to tap both battery terminals At least sometimes if you accidentally left on the radio or inside dome light overnight, then you would think you drained the battery. But if you knowingly did not cause anything at all to drain battery,then you might think it's the starter.

Today, first trip out, It started up, I drove to the plant nursery, time to leave, so I tried it and nothing, so I popped the hood, knocked the battery terminals a few times, still nothing, then I knocked the starter a couple of times, then it started. My first thought was the starter. Then someone at Autozone mentioned these trucks have a ($10.00) solenoid attached to the pass. fender wall.

But me hitting the starter and not solenoid, why would they say it's my solenoid?

Now I can play process of elimination til' the cows come home, but what would be the educated guess here?

I could replace both the solenoid, If that don't work, then maybe the starter,and if that don't work, would it even be my alternator?

I'm going out right now to bypass the starter by bridging the solenoid contact post,which should start up. Thanks!

 

I'd definitely check that solenoid first. It should have either 1 or 2 small terminals in between the two large battery posts, connect a wire between the large post from the battery and the small terminal closest to it and you should hear and feel a clunk as it engages...every time you try it. If not, then it's probably bad. If it does, then move your attention to the starter. There are contacts inside the starter that can go bad and cause it to act up, may be time for a replacement. Good bet it's one or the other.

Though it's also possible you just have dirty or loose connections, either at the battery, the solenoid, or even the starter. Clean and tighten them all before you go replacing parts.

 

Thanks, and all I can say is..it just started running. battery cables were tight,but i removed them,cleaned the Terminals and put some Vaseline on them,and it seemed to help. Thanks a bunch!

 

Hi,
Still have issues with stalling and revving up engine so it will not stall.

With over 160,000 miles on the this 26 year old antique, there are no scheduled maintenance. I try to replace plugs and wires every few years, if needed. Air filter, gas cap, water cap, clean AIC valve, which so far, has never been replaced. The cap and rotor.
Fuel pressure regulator ~ I had to remove the distributor cap and rotor to get a hold of that back allen screw. It took me forever, but trying my patience every step of the way, I did it. I did not have any light oil to put on the gasket, but hopefully it helped replacing it, since it’s never been done before.

I also replaced the relays. The 4 pigtail wires exactly the way the OEM comes out of the harness, regardless of the BIG FAT striped wire going into the wrong spade location as the OEM. (I think I have photos posted in previous posts here)

It runs. I can, and will not say for the better, but so far, it hasn’t stalled the few times I went down the street for a test drive...(or blew a fuse, because of the way the relay could have been wired wrong)

The rotor had a little carbon on top, that, and the cap has not been replaced since about four years ago, same with spark plugs. I usually replace air filter every other test only smog test. The spark plug wires, well not so often. I would hate to have to replace my TFI module again after four times in the life of the truck.

I don’t want to be negative, but I’m thinking I’m not completely out of the woods just yet. That in-line reservoir might be the next thing, along with cleaning or replacing my injectors, they might be dirty.

The recent relay TOP SWITCH, I just replaced was Black top connected to a white bottom, which plugs into the OEM BROWN Harness (Must be ECM, or ECC Relay) The other switch I replaced last year was a Black top connected to a white bottom, that connects to a GREEN OEM pigtail harness, which should be the FUEL RELAY.

 

UPDATE - JULY 18, 2012
1986 Ranger / 2.3 Gas EFI / 5-Speed / SOHC / 4-Cyl.

Ok, I replaced the 4 wires exactly the way they were coming out of the harness and into the new switch. So far,so good, with no burnt fuses. Truck still stalling after starting engine.

Well, I just replaced cap and rotor, and at first it seemed to have a little pep when starting the engine, but after trying to replace the plastic cover back over my relays as the engine was running, it’s pretty much back to stalling a few times before the engine stays at an idle.



Last week, I had removed the plastic shroud cover protecting my AIC, and relays, and other stuff attached to my passengers side fender wall, until I was sure after I re-wired the new pigtail to relay switch, to make sure it did not blow a fuse from mis-wiring the four wires from the harness to the switch. (previous posts)



Funny thing, though. Yesterday, as the engine was running, I tried to carefully place that plastic cover of back over those relays, and at first, suddenly, the engine revved up a little higher idle, then I tried to feel around for any lose connections, but that did not yield any suspects. I continued to move around the cover to see if it would do this again, but this time, the engine just stalled out.

So now I’m thinking there could be a short somewhere in this area, when the plastic piece touched something…..But what could that? Any ideas?

Thanks yet again for any and all replies.

Ok, I will post photos IF I can be allowed, and when I know how to do it. All it asks for is a "htpp://" address, all I have are jpgs.