How to TEST Cruise Control
#1
How to TEST Cruise Control
I have a 1997 E150 conversion van with a 5.4L and the cruise control doesn't work. So far all I've checked is the fuse and it's good.
Anyone have any idea if there's any way to check the switches and or the servo? Or should I be checking the cruise "module" as well?
Thanks
Anyone have any idea if there's any way to check the switches and or the servo? Or should I be checking the cruise "module" as well?
Thanks
#2
Once upon a time conversion vans put after market cruise controls in, which may complicate testing. FORD OEM cruise control systems are supported by specialized test equipment that produces a speed signal while parked in the shop to simulate driving.
A common issue is the 'clock spring' inside the steering wheel. Again the OEM test unit does diagnostics to help pinpoint the fault.
Had thought by '97 FORD had done away w/the old cable servo. My '92 had the servo seize up & I understand that the servo's cable end was fragile, breaking or falling off the throttle body end. Recall replacing the servo was a PITA b/c its buried under master cylinder & I removed the battery tray.
A common issue is the 'clock spring' inside the steering wheel. Again the OEM test unit does diagnostics to help pinpoint the fault.
Had thought by '97 FORD had done away w/the old cable servo. My '92 had the servo seize up & I understand that the servo's cable end was fragile, breaking or falling off the throttle body end. Recall replacing the servo was a PITA b/c its buried under master cylinder & I removed the battery tray.
#3
Club Wagon is correct----first have to determine if your CC is OEM or some system the converter threw on. OEM will have switches in the steering wheel, after market systems tend to have some sort of control stalk mounted on the column shroud.
Honestly the OEM systems were pretty robust including the throttle cables. Since the throttle was still cable driven from the gas pedal the servo/cable system makes sense. Sadly the company supplying these systems to Ford SCS/Frigette is now out of business so replacement parts for them might be difficult to obtain-----perhaps there were several suppliers though?
Also as Club Wagon says the clockspring could be the culprit but so could the control switches and the servo itself.
Does your steering wheel have the switches in its middle?
Honestly the OEM systems were pretty robust including the throttle cables. Since the throttle was still cable driven from the gas pedal the servo/cable system makes sense. Sadly the company supplying these systems to Ford SCS/Frigette is now out of business so replacement parts for them might be difficult to obtain-----perhaps there were several suppliers though?
Also as Club Wagon says the clockspring could be the culprit but so could the control switches and the servo itself.
Does your steering wheel have the switches in its middle?
#4
Yes, I have switches IN the steering wheel.
Last night I had read in another thread on this subject that it could have something to do with the VSS. I DO get a random ABS light come on from time to time. Whenever the ABS light comes on, if I turn the key OFF then restart the van, the light goes away. That thread said if my horn didn't work too suspect the clockspring. My horn WORKS. It also gave a test procedure involving holding the ON switch, then trun the key to ON and watch for light to flash on dash then press the other buttons in sequence.
Have you heard of this?
Just for *****s and grins I ordered a new VSS from ROCKAUTO.COM, it was only $12.00 including the shipping.
Last night I had read in another thread on this subject that it could have something to do with the VSS. I DO get a random ABS light come on from time to time. Whenever the ABS light comes on, if I turn the key OFF then restart the van, the light goes away. That thread said if my horn didn't work too suspect the clockspring. My horn WORKS. It also gave a test procedure involving holding the ON switch, then trun the key to ON and watch for light to flash on dash then press the other buttons in sequence.
Have you heard of this?
Just for *****s and grins I ordered a new VSS from ROCKAUTO.COM, it was only $12.00 including the shipping.
#5
Okay-----now we're getting somewhere! Yes if the horn works it might signal the clockspring is still functioning---just as IF the airbag warning light does NOT come on in the instrument cluster its a somewhat reliable indicator the CS is working.
Yes the VSS could be an issue since the servo gets its cues from it. I believe (and highly subject to being incorrect) but the speedometer and odometer also get impulses from the VSS. If that's the case do you have those functioning?
I'll add if you've checked fuses check for a master cylinder mounted switch that is a redundant safety---also check your brake pedal mounted switch too---both can fail in the fail safe mode and not allow the servo to energize.
Try all that---see what you find! Hope we're being even a little helpful.
Yes the VSS could be an issue since the servo gets its cues from it. I believe (and highly subject to being incorrect) but the speedometer and odometer also get impulses from the VSS. If that's the case do you have those functioning?
I'll add if you've checked fuses check for a master cylinder mounted switch that is a redundant safety---also check your brake pedal mounted switch too---both can fail in the fail safe mode and not allow the servo to energize.
Try all that---see what you find! Hope we're being even a little helpful.
#6
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#8
#9
You do not have a VSS on the rear differential, that is a ABS sensor.
Your VSS is located under vehicle, on left side of transmission.
PINPOINT TEST A: SPEED CONTROL INOPERATIVE
A1: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR ATTACHMENT TO THE THROTTLE
A2: CHECK POWER TO THE SPEED CONTROL SERVO
A3: CHECK THE FUSE
A4: CHECK THE MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
A5: CHECK FOR STOPLIGHT SWITCH INPUT WITH NO BRAKES APPLIED
A6: CHECK THE BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT
A7: CHECK THE BRAKE PRESSURE SWITCH INPUT TO THE SPEED CONTROL SERVO
A8: CHECK THE BRAKE PRESSURE SWITCH CIRCUIT
A9: CHECK BRAKE PRESSURE SWITCH POWER
A10: CHECK CIRCUIT 810 (R/LG)
A11: CHECK FOR STUCK SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR SWITCH
A12: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR SWITCH OPERATION
A13: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR SWITCH GROUND
A14: CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
A15: CHECK THE SET/ACCEL SWITCH
A16: CHECK THE SPEED SIGNAL
A17: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR CABLE
Your VSS is located under vehicle, on left side of transmission.
PINPOINT TEST A: SPEED CONTROL INOPERATIVE
A1: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR ATTACHMENT TO THE THROTTLE
A2: CHECK POWER TO THE SPEED CONTROL SERVO
A3: CHECK THE FUSE
A4: CHECK THE MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
A5: CHECK FOR STOPLIGHT SWITCH INPUT WITH NO BRAKES APPLIED
A6: CHECK THE BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT
A7: CHECK THE BRAKE PRESSURE SWITCH INPUT TO THE SPEED CONTROL SERVO
A8: CHECK THE BRAKE PRESSURE SWITCH CIRCUIT
A9: CHECK BRAKE PRESSURE SWITCH POWER
A10: CHECK CIRCUIT 810 (R/LG)
A11: CHECK FOR STUCK SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR SWITCH
A12: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR SWITCH OPERATION
A13: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR SWITCH GROUND
A14: CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
A15: CHECK THE SET/ACCEL SWITCH
A16: CHECK THE SPEED SIGNAL
A17: CHECK THE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR CABLE
#10
The Pinpoint Tests seem to come directly from a Ford manual----I've used them myself but had to print them out from the CD-ROM they're part of, long ago shed the bulky printed versions in the huge binders.
DrivingMad you've tossed enough money at simply changing parts and in this case it might have been the wrong one at that. Time to get someone involved to at least test the servo which would be my first guess with the symptoms you've shared so far.
A poster here calling himself "mobiletechspecialist" or something similar has suggested there are interchangeable servos that will work on various years instead of them being year specific as I've been told they are. I know from first hand experience a servo made for a '97 E250 will NOT work successfully on an '00 due minor changes in chassis wiring. I'm convinced Ford did this just to force consumers/mechanics to buy the called out part from them rather than fish around salvage yards for less expensive replacements. I could be wrong but wouldn't be surprised if I'm spot on.
You might try calling the stealership parts or service departments to see if they have a sub-contractor who specializes in OEM CC systems. Here in my local area a dealer suggested I call directly the one guy they've always used as he was so well versed in that aspect he eclipsed the factory "trained" staff mechanics something terrific. He did prove to be quite helpful to me as well.
Good luck---that CC can be a great addition, hate to lose use of mine!
DrivingMad you've tossed enough money at simply changing parts and in this case it might have been the wrong one at that. Time to get someone involved to at least test the servo which would be my first guess with the symptoms you've shared so far.
A poster here calling himself "mobiletechspecialist" or something similar has suggested there are interchangeable servos that will work on various years instead of them being year specific as I've been told they are. I know from first hand experience a servo made for a '97 E250 will NOT work successfully on an '00 due minor changes in chassis wiring. I'm convinced Ford did this just to force consumers/mechanics to buy the called out part from them rather than fish around salvage yards for less expensive replacements. I could be wrong but wouldn't be surprised if I'm spot on.
You might try calling the stealership parts or service departments to see if they have a sub-contractor who specializes in OEM CC systems. Here in my local area a dealer suggested I call directly the one guy they've always used as he was so well versed in that aspect he eclipsed the factory "trained" staff mechanics something terrific. He did prove to be quite helpful to me as well.
Good luck---that CC can be a great addition, hate to lose use of mine!
#11
#12
I stand corrected on the VSS, when I ordered the part from Rockauto.com that's what they had it listed as.
I KNOW I'm just "throwing parts at it" and I HATE doing that but sometimes it comes down to a proccess of elimination. And in the end, at least I KNOW what's in there and won't have to worry about those parts later down the road.
Is the servo run on vacuum, electric or a combination of the two?
I KNOW I'm just "throwing parts at it" and I HATE doing that but sometimes it comes down to a proccess of elimination. And in the end, at least I KNOW what's in there and won't have to worry about those parts later down the road.
Is the servo run on vacuum, electric or a combination of the two?
Last edited by Drivingmad44; 05-09-2011 at 09:46 AM. Reason: wasn't finished
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