Starter won't stop running!
#1
Starter won't stop running!
So I just got done replacing my cap, rotor, and new plug wires. I went to put the key and start it up. Well, something must have broke/stuck because the starter won't stop turning the engine over. I backed the key out and took it out and the starter is still turning over. The key cylinder still "feels" ok. Nothing feels broken or stuck and it's resistance when turning it has not changed, however I'm stuck with a constantly on starter.
I just pulled the key cylinder out and nothing appears to be broken or stuck with it. I pulled the actuator rod back so it was no longer in the "run" position. I hooked the negative portion of the battery back up and the starter came right on trying to start it. Something is stuck somewhere.... Any ideas?
I just pulled the key cylinder out and nothing appears to be broken or stuck with it. I pulled the actuator rod back so it was no longer in the "run" position. I hooked the negative portion of the battery back up and the starter came right on trying to start it. Something is stuck somewhere.... Any ideas?
#4
A small wire is connected to the solenoid. That wire is what tells the "juice" to flow from the battery through the solenoid to the starter. Disconnect this wire and reconnect your ground. If the starter starts doing its thing, you know there is a problem with the solenoid. If it doesn't, then you know the problem is somewhere between your ignition switch and the solenoid.
#5
starter
I had a 1972 f150 when I parked it in the parking lot at work it seemed ok.When I tried to start it after work the battery was dead.When I tried to boost it The solinoid was stuck.I still don't know how this happened as there was no signs of tampering or breakin.I replaced the solinoid and everything was fine.
#6
A small wire is connected to the solenoid. That wire is what tells the "juice" to flow from the battery through the solenoid to the starter. Disconnect this wire and reconnect your ground. If the starter starts doing its thing, you know there is a problem with the solenoid. If it doesn't, then you know the problem is somewhere between your ignition switch and the solenoid.
#7
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#8
If it's a cheapo replacement from an auto parts chain, it'll likely do it again. Most of what they sell are made in china, AKA junk. This is one item that it really does pay in the long run to get a genuine motorcraft brand replacement. So far, they haven't farmed out production to china.
#9
If it's a cheapo replacement from an auto parts chain, it'll likely do it again. Most of what they sell are made in china, AKA junk. This is one item that it really does pay in the long run to get a genuine motorcraft brand replacement. So far, they haven't farmed out production to china.
#10
#11
I have more faith in a 30 year old factory solenoid than I do a brand new made in china replacement.
#13
Actualy NAPA is still a good product. You just need to make sure you get the better NAPA/Echlin parts. NAPA has 2 different lines of products, their cheap stuff and the quality parts. In fact Carquest has same thing their "red" line and the better proffesional quality items. Also you need to get the qualty filters NAPA's top line listed as Gold and Carquest listed as Wix filter line. I will avoid Autozone, Pep Boys or O Reilies unless I am in a bind and cant get quality parts.
I have been turning wrenches for over 40 years and ran my own shop for 8 years prior to getting govt fleet maintenance supervisor position so I realize advantages of quality parts.
I have been turning wrenches for over 40 years and ran my own shop for 8 years prior to getting govt fleet maintenance supervisor position so I realize advantages of quality parts.
#15
Your other option, next time you need a starter is to buy one for a 1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0L. It is a permanent magnet gear reduction style, half as big, twice the power and just use the solenoid as a starter relay. Archion can hook you up with PN for a new one. There is also one that fits a 7.5L, I have one on mine.