HELP! MY 1999 FORD F250 7.3 WONT START. IT CRANKS BUT WONT START. I HAVE CHECKED ALL FUSES, REPLACED THE GLOW PLUG CYLINOID, CHECKED ALL RELAYS EVEN BEHIND RADIO, PUT A NEW FUEL PUMP ON, CHECKED THE PCM, BUT I AM STILL NOT GETTING POWER TO THE FUEL PUMP! ANY IDEAS?

 

You have no voltage at the duel pump? Have you checked the fuel pump inertia switch on the passenger kick panel? It is designed to shut the fuel pump off in a crash. There should be a hole that you can stick your finger through below the glove box to reset the switch.

 

Is your wait to start light coming on and going off like normal? Are there any other dash lights not functioning normal? Got a chip in the truck?

 

the wts light does not come on, we have no chip on the truck, although this is where the problem arised. my son took his truck to a friend to install a chip, the chip did not work and now all the sudden neither will the truck.. I am afraid that the computer is fried.. We have done the reset on the passenger side sidekick panel also!

 

Unplug the fuel bowl heater, and replace the fuse,relay. I think its #30. You can't always tell by just looking. I was going to say chip to because I had the plug in kind once and it just stopped working. Unpluged it and drove off. Keep us posted.
Chet

 

Hey, I just found a similar problem with my 1999 F250 7.3. The wait to start light was acting intermitant and the RPM pointer moves when I'm in the wait to start mode. I'll watch for developments in the above situation to gets some ideas. A funny thing, I was planning to start a trip Tomorrow; wouldn't you know it!

 

l999 F250 7.3 diesel. Won't start. It turns over fine. The wait to start light is intermittant and the rpm pointer moves during the cranking. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Phil

 

Well this will be the fun part (not really). Time to ask your son exactly what they did. If they attempted to install, remove, move, wiggle, or even stare to hard at a chip in contact with the pcm WHILE the key was in the ignition, then there is a very good chance the PCM is dead. Even with the truck turned off, having the key in the hole powers up part of the keep alive memory. Plugging a chip into a PCM that is awake can kill it.

Hopefully your son is not one of those "not my fault" types and you can find out for sure if this happened or if we need to keep diagnosing in a different direction. Just in case you get lucky, check all the fuses with a meter and swap the relays around to rule out the simple stuff. A WTS light that does not come on means the PCM is not powering up because they just happen to share the same circuit and fuse.

 

Foregot about the key in. It has to be out completely or no more PCM.

 

I still dont understand this? I always think of the key out, just to prevent turning the key while fiddling with the PCM, but I have the chime delete which essentially "makes" the switch always like the key is in the ignition. What else does the PCM use to determine that there is a key in the ignition. All that said though I still pull my keys before working on chip connections or PCM removals, I just dont know what circuit "kills" it with the keys in? If its the key in ignition switch then I need to unbypass that one because I have removed chip and PCM with batteries still hooked up.

 

Its right in DP Tuners instructions to make sure the key isn't int the igniton while working on the PCM. Its either that or discounnect the batteries. Did you change the fuse for the fuel bowl heater and unplug it?

 

I know its right in the instructions but I have always just wondered. Sorry for the Hijack. Essentially what I am asking is since I have the "key in ignition switch" always sensing that there is a key am I running a large risk of frying a PCM? If so back with the irritating door chimes.

 

Yes. Any time you play with the PCM "chip" you run a chance of frying the PCM with key in the ingnition.

Chet

 

In an earlier thread you said you had the key in ignition chime delete and what I higlighted above has me confused becuase that is the exact opposite.

The key in ignition chime delete makes it look like there is NEVER a key in the igniion. If you pull codes you will see a B1532 which is a "key in igtnition failure".

Edit: Even with the chime delete you should always have key out whenever working on the truck.

 

See something so simple that I overlooked, one of those DUH moments, it makes it look like there isn't a key not that there is a key. Silly oversight, lol. Thanks Robin for setting me straight. Although, I have never seen the code, although too I've never pulled the Body codes either just Powertrain and transmission.