'69 360 2-Barrel Carb?
#1
'69 360 2-Barrel Carb?
I am working on my '69 F-350 Dual Rear Wheel truck and am having Carburator problems. When trying to adjust the Carb, I could only find one adjuster screw. I soon after decided to just rebuild it. I took it out, flipped it over and verified that there is only one adjuster screw on it. I believe it is a Ford (Motorcraft?) carb and believe it is original to the truck. Is one adjuster screw correct?
Any info would be appreciated.
Bill
Any info would be appreciated.
Bill
#2
Hey, I had issues with mine when I first got it. I tried to tinker with it, in the end I ordered a new one from Autozone or Napa. The new one has two adjustment screws. I had a friend of mine adjust it for me. I had problems getting it just right. It would stall at stoplights. It seems to idle low now but its the only rpm that will work in any condition for the 360 and auto trans that i have.
#4
69,
If you have a 360, it would have originally come with a autolite/motorcraft 2100 2 barrel carb. It would have had 2 idle mixture screws. Of course, after 43 years, the original carb may have been swapped out for something different. Best to post a few pics, then it will be easier to identify. You should also make note of any numbers located on the metal tag which will tell us exactly what you have. This metal tag may also be missing...
Here's mine off my 72 360:
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1301157607
and
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1301158436
You can see the first one one the bottom left of the pic. The second one is hidden in the shadow, just below the accelerator pump cover.
The long pointed screws in the 2nd pic shows what the idle mixture screws look like. Note each one has a spring. The spring, under tension, keeps the screw from going out of adjustment.
Hope that helps,
John
If you have a 360, it would have originally come with a autolite/motorcraft 2100 2 barrel carb. It would have had 2 idle mixture screws. Of course, after 43 years, the original carb may have been swapped out for something different. Best to post a few pics, then it will be easier to identify. You should also make note of any numbers located on the metal tag which will tell us exactly what you have. This metal tag may also be missing...
Here's mine off my 72 360:
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1301157607
and
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/v...g?t=1301158436
You can see the first one one the bottom left of the pic. The second one is hidden in the shadow, just below the accelerator pump cover.
The long pointed screws in the 2nd pic shows what the idle mixture screws look like. Note each one has a spring. The spring, under tension, keeps the screw from going out of adjustment.
Hope that helps,
John
#6
#7
In 1972, Ford was forced by the US Gov't to sell Auto-Lite, as they claimed Ford had a monopoly on autoparts.
After selling Auto-Lite, Ford started in-house brand Motorcraft, transfering all the Auto-Lite part numbers over to Motorcraft part numbers.
For example: D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-D) .. Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-D replaced Auto-Lite CT-499-B).
Fits all: Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carburetors installed in 1962/74 Passenger Cars & Trucks / 1966/74 Bronco's / 1969/74 Econolines.
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#8
#9
Appreciate the replies from way back then. As an update, my carb "did" have 2 screws, but one was broken off flush and was pretty hard to tell that one was ever there. It was determined by me and my mechanic friend of mine that there was no reasonable way to get it out, without damaging the carb anyway, and we decided it would be best to just get another one.
Now that was easier said than done, as finding a replacement was pretty much a surprise. No luck at any of the parts stores and nothing again at just about all of national carb rebuilding places I called. The only one I could find at all was in the state of AZ and they wanted $400 plus shipping. Finally found a good used one for $50 by a member of another site I also belong to.
Runs just fine now, except it takes what seems like half the morning to warm up enough to idle on it's own. Sure wish it had a Manual Choke. I'm going to try hook something up to make it work.
Bill
Now that was easier said than done, as finding a replacement was pretty much a surprise. No luck at any of the parts stores and nothing again at just about all of national carb rebuilding places I called. The only one I could find at all was in the state of AZ and they wanted $400 plus shipping. Finally found a good used one for $50 by a member of another site I also belong to.
Runs just fine now, except it takes what seems like half the morning to warm up enough to idle on it's own. Sure wish it had a Manual Choke. I'm going to try hook something up to make it work.
Bill
#10
Appreciate the replies from way back then. As an update, my carb "did" have 2 screws, but one was broken off flush and was pretty hard to tell that one was ever there. It was determined by me and my mechanic friend of mine that there was no reasonable way to get it out, without damaging the carb anyway, and we decided it would be best to just get another one.
Now that was easier said than done, as finding a replacement was pretty much a surprise. No luck at any of the parts stores and nothing again at just about all of national carb rebuilding places I called. The only one I could find at all was in the state of AZ and they wanted $400 plus shipping. Finally found a good used one for $50 by a member of another site I also belong to.
Runs just fine now, except it takes what seems like half the morning to warm up enough to idle on it's own. Sure wish it had a Manual Choke. I'm going to try hook something up to make it work.
Bill
Now that was easier said than done, as finding a replacement was pretty much a surprise. No luck at any of the parts stores and nothing again at just about all of national carb rebuilding places I called. The only one I could find at all was in the state of AZ and they wanted $400 plus shipping. Finally found a good used one for $50 by a member of another site I also belong to.
Runs just fine now, except it takes what seems like half the morning to warm up enough to idle on it's own. Sure wish it had a Manual Choke. I'm going to try hook something up to make it work.
Bill
#11
Thanks again.
Bill
#12
#13
Appreciate the replies from way back then. As an update, my carb "did" have 2 screws, but one was broken off flush and was pretty hard to tell that one was ever there. It was determined by me and my mechanic friend of mine that there was no reasonable way to get it out, without damaging the carb anyway, and we decided it would be best to just get another one.
Now that was easier said than done, as finding a replacement was pretty much a surprise. No luck at any of the parts stores and nothing again at just about all of national carb rebuilding places I called.
Now that was easier said than done, as finding a replacement was pretty much a surprise. No luck at any of the parts stores and nothing again at just about all of national carb rebuilding places I called.
There are some differences however. The cars, many of the trucks after 1967 have automatic chokes. All 1970/74's have a choke pull-off diaphragm located within the top of the airhorn.
1969: Ford replaced ALL the previous truck/Bronco manual choke 2100's with C9UZ-9510-AA (Auto-Lite/Motorcraft CA-698). This replacement carb was a universal "fitz-all."
I find it hard to believe that NAPA or indie autoparts stores wouldn't have rebuilt 2100 series carbs.
Here in LA LA Land, Engler Brothers Auto Parts on Pico Blvd. in Santa Monica is the best dang auto parts store for older vehicles.
#14
#15
This was 3 years back as the posted dates above show, but I can remember them telling me at the time that a big part of the problem was they couldn't get enough good Cores to rebuild.
Some places offered to rebuild mine, but as mentioned above, we determined it to be pretty much use-less.
I also remember asking for a 2100 Series in general, without mentioning the application.
Sure goes to show how valuable the Cores are though.
Bill
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