Cracked Valve Cover
#16
09-20-2011, 07:14 PM
Fleet Mechanic
Not really... Most import engines with a timing belt will bend valves if the belt breaks. It's the nature of the beast and the SOHC engine had some teething problems when it was introduced in 97 and Ford did extend the warranty on them. Now they are pretty solid with hundreds of thousands of them running on the road. If you had the engine out to replace the right cassette you should have had all of them replaced. There are several special tools that must be used to time the cams properly. There is also a specific procedure that if not followed can allow one or both cams to move out of time. Hopefully whoever you have working on the engine knows what they are doing.
#17
12-19-2011, 05:05 PM
Similar Problem
I'm having a similar problem. I have 2009 Explorer and it is in the shop for a cracked valve cover. It must be the one on the passenger side, because that is where the oil and smoke are showing up. I was told that the reason the valve cover cracked could be that the aftermarket oil filters may not have the by-pass valve that allows oil to flow when the filter is 100% clogged. This truck has NEVER missed a service. Does this make sense to any of y'all? I would expect it on a vehicle with 150,000 miles, but this one is at 45,000. It sounds like a defect to me. What say you?
#18
12-24-2011, 11:55 AM
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I'm having a similar problem. I have 2009 Explorer and it is in the shop for a cracked valve cover. It must be the one on the passenger side, because that is where the oil and smoke are showing up. I was told that the reason the valve cover cracked could be that the aftermarket oil filters may not have the by-pass valve that allows oil to flow when the filter is 100% clogged. This truck has NEVER missed a service. Does this make sense to any of y'all? I would expect it on a vehicle with 150,000 miles, but this one is at 45,000. It sounds like a defect to me. What say you?
It is always a good idea to stick with the Motorcraft oil filters because of the drainback valve. The drainback valve is for stopping the oil from draining back into the oil pan. The valve closes off, allowing oil to flow out, but not back in. This is so that your cams and stuff up top are not dry when you go to start the engine.
The thing about having a bypass valve allowing the oil to flow when it is 100% clogged sounds like a bunch of nonsense to me.
Also how any of this is related to a broken valve cover sounds like a bunch of nonsense. I think that the cause of your broken valve cover is from something else, but I could be wrong.
#19
12-24-2011, 12:04 PM
Cracked Valve Cover
It turns out the cracked cover was on the driver's side. I guess the oil was blowing across and back to end up on the oil filter. I checked with my garage and they do use a filter with the valve in it so even IF that were to be the cause, it isn't. I think the darn thing was torqued incorrectly from the factory, but can't prove it. There was nothing else wrong (like a cracked cassette) nor was there ever any warning lights. It never ran roughly or lost power. It's fixed now, and not leaking. Of course when I picked it up it had a shiny new sheet metal screw in the left rear...
Probably should have been a warranty issue. It's a company vehicle, so I didn't have to pay for the work (close to $800) but still annoys me.
Probably should have been a warranty issue. It's a company vehicle, so I didn't have to pay for the work (close to $800) but still annoys me.
#20
12-24-2011, 12:06 PM
#21
01-06-2012, 11:45 AM
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It is poor engineering that would have a timing chain guide wear out and break bending engine valves, sending debris thru the valve cover and hot oil onto a hot engine. My neighbors 2003 Explorer 4.0 at 131,000 miles did just that 2 months ago, as well as 2 of my employees 2003 4.0. All 3 owners 4.0 engines were damaged and all within 2,000 odometer miles of each vehical on the same side of the engine same place at the valve cover...Of course i love my 2003, 225,000 mile 6.0 Ford 250 diesel......lol
Thank you fastback 4 for explaining that to some that does not get the concept of bad engineering on cheaply made parts made of plastic, which is why the new upgraded tensioners are made of a more durable nylon that will withstand the friction of the chain. Geez, some people just don't get it.
Thanks again,
Wanna B GT
#22
10-11-2019, 10:00 PM
Thanks guys for all the info so far. Well the valve cover is definitely cracked as i can see where the oil is staining around the hairline crack and it goes from just above the last bolt on the valve cover to about the middle of the top of valve cover. That is definitely where the oil is coming from. The oil pressure is still showing full on dipstick even after 2 puddles left on driveway and carport. I dont have anyone who can take the valve cover off just as of yet but still working on it. As for the car running low on oil--never. Always changed bout every 4000 miles. It has never, ever ran hot!! i have not had any problems whatsoever with the emploder since my purchase in Aug. 2008! Original owner said it was kept in garage most of time as he was OTR comm driver. He put 82,000 mi. on the motor from interstate driving mostly in ATL and it now has 130,000 miles after 2 years of more interstate driving due to moving from Pensacola to Georgia. All i have ever had to do was change the oil, new wipers, gen maint., etc. I know its probably time for the timing chain to be replaced and trani serviced as it doesnt have a dipstick to check levels, but i'm single mom with limited income at the moment, and i always got the shade tree mech that says if it aint broke dont fix it kinda deal, lol, which is not the proper thing to do i know. It really has been a great vehicle!!!
!!!! I'm sorry for rushing u guys the other day, just a little impatient and concerned, SOOO SORRY!! This is my only means of transportation and as single mom, with my return to school in less than 2 weeks w/o a vehicle, just a little stressed!!
Again i apologize. I truly appreciate the time and effort you guys put into this forum more than you can imagine and you should surely be compensated for all the great info your making available to the ordinary joe who knows nothing bout cars and for the ones that know, who still seek advice!!! KUDOS TO U ALL ANDThanks again so much cuz YOU ALL ROCK!!!!!
Any further information would be greatly appreciated as the diagnosis is still uncertain and will be until valve cover is removed. I will keep u posted as to the findings in the very near future( I hope). Thanks again in advance for all that you do, some of us really depend on your guidance and trust our lives and saftey of our children with your knowledge and dedication to repairing our vehicles!!! You should all be commended!! 
Your Friend, Me
#23
10-11-2019, 10:04 PM
#24
03-27-2021, 10:35 PM
I'm wondering if my cassette broke as well?
The cassette prob broke and cracked the valve cover. If the crack is on the passenger side rear or driver's side front then thats what caused it. The engine could be out of time on one side causing it to run rough if the cassette broke. If the driver's side broke then it can be fixed with the engine in the car, if the passenger side broke then the engine has to come out to fix it.
I immediately pulled over and noticed I was leaking major oil. I noticed there was a good size crack or actually gash in the rear passenger side of my valve cover that I never noticed or say before.
The explorer had been in a front end accident before I bought it and I thought that this crack may had occurred in the accident and then progressively got worse. But I wasn't really sure.
Needless to say, I ended up replacing the valve cover.
But ever since then, it has idled pretty rough, shaking a little when idling. And the check engine light codes threw codes p0172, p0174, p0183 are showing since this all happened.
p0172-system to rich (bank 1)
p0174-system to lean (bank 2)
P0183-fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input
And I have been stumped ever since trying to figure out why it's idled so rough since.
It has been checked many times over for any kind of vacuum leaks and to make sure everything has been hooked up correctly/nothing got overlooked.
I even took it to a very reputable shop for a diagnostics to see if they could figure it out.
They informed me the passenger side cat was plugged and it had a bad fuel injector.
And after having addressed these issues, it's still doing the exact same thing, rough idle and throwing the same codes.
But after having just stumbled across your post, I'm really wondering if it was the cassette that broke on mine also...
But if it is the cassette that broke on mine, wouldn't it have broke the valve cover again since I've been driving it this past week after having replaced the valve cover or no?
And if it's the cassette and I've been driving it since that happened, how much more damage may I have caused?
#25
01-02-2023, 12:03 AM
Cracked.Valve cover 2003 Ranger 4.0 Rt. side
I am having the same exact problem with my 2003 4.0 Ford Ranger. I went to the Post Office & when I came out I noticed oil dripping from unde rt the passenger side of my truck, I started it up & it started running like SH-T! So I went straight home, about 2 blocks away , I opened the hood & inspected engine for oil leak & found Tt. side valve cover cracked & broken at rear of VC
I pulled valve cover off & found plastic timing chain tensioner on top of tensioner which made me so F/N pissed off at Ford for making such a important & crucial part SO F_CKING CHEAP! ESPECIALLY FROM A COMPANY THAT I USE TO WORK AT FOR YEARS as a Truck mechanic & small car mechanic. I feel as though Ford should pay for the repair on my Truck, So if you want to take this to the next level please contact me. Thanks! Michael L. Bray
mikebhauling@gmail.com
I pulled valve cover off & found plastic timing chain tensioner on top of tensioner which made me so F/N pissed off at Ford for making such a important & crucial part SO F_CKING CHEAP! ESPECIALLY FROM A COMPANY THAT I USE TO WORK AT FOR YEARS as a Truck mechanic & small car mechanic. I feel as though Ford should pay for the repair on my Truck, So if you want to take this to the next level please contact me. Thanks! Michael L. Bray
mikebhauling@gmail.com
#26
01-02-2023, 04:42 AM
...2003 4.0 Ford Ranger
...oil dripping from unde rt the passenger side
...cracked & broken at rear of VC
...pulled valve cover off & found plastic timing chain tensioner
...COMPANY THAT I USE TO WORK AT FOR YEARS as a Truck mechanic
...Ford should pay for the repair
...oil dripping from unde rt the passenger side
...cracked & broken at rear of VC
...pulled valve cover off & found plastic timing chain tensioner
...COMPANY THAT I USE TO WORK AT FOR YEARS as a Truck mechanic
...Ford should pay for the repair
OilLeak due to cracked Right ValveCover due to broken RightRear TimingGuide caused by failed RightRear TimngTensioner.
Only real cure is to pull Engine & replace\renew RightRear TimingChain+Guide+Tensioner.
Might as well renew all Timing Components, OilPump, Rear+Front Seals,... while Engin is out.
The 2 OilPressurized TimingTensioners need to be replaced\renewed every 75k~100kMiles or this is the result.
Good luck on getting Ford to pay for this; let us know how it goes.
Click here for more info on the OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
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