I have a 1994 F-250 turbo diesel and I have a fuel leak i am having trouble locating. It is leaking of of the bottom of the oil pan and the starter. I pulled of the air intake box thinking that it might be coming from the throttle body but it is all dry up there. So I thought there might be something on top of the starter and pulled it off and it made the drip divert to the bottom of where the transmission and engine meet. My question is if there is any random fuel line under the turbo since that is the last logical place for it to be coming from but don't want to off the turbo if i don't have to go through that hassle. Let me know i will be back at it Saturday so any info by then would be helpful. Thanks.

 

one of two places does that bro, there is the line that runs in front of the intake, i assume you have this fuel line and the injector caps. Possibly the return line that brings everything to one line from the two banks but the return line that joins the two banks is most likely the culprit. Get up there with a bright flashlight and facing the truck square on, look just behind the ip housing cover and to the right and left. You should see the valley pan quite well from here. If you see drainage or some gunk that is wet there, we need to look at the IP fittings, specifically the ip feed line from the filter housing and the injector lines. If you dont see it there, it will be behind the turbo. You will need to remove the intake housing for the turbo. all of it. Then do the same with the flashlight and see if you see anything wet. Hope you find it bro, let me know and ill help more.

 

So there is a line that runs behind the turbo. I will take that off this week end and let you know what I find. Thanks for the help.

 

No on your stock setup, it should run from the passenger side to the drivers side and go in front of the intake manifold neck, possibly in wire loom, it might be leaking, you just need to get in there with a good bright flashlight and look for wet lines or similar.

 

Yeah, there's a drain in the valley pan in the very rear. So any luquid int he valley pan will drain thru this hole and run down the engine like you describe.
I don't have a turbo, so I'm not sure how the returns run, but Wreck seems to have you covered here

 

Thanks guys I am a weekend wrench-er and since this truck is my daily driver I will be working on it this Friday and Saturday. If I need any other help I will be getting on then thanks again.

 

"Backyard mechanic", "Shadetree mechanic", "Weekend wrencher", "Weekend warrior", "Do-it-yourselfer", and my favorite "Try-my-best-do-it-yourselfer"

Most of us joined up because we are not mecahnics, and nowhere near experts. We have regular jobs, and our truck is our main source of transportation to do the work we need to do. As a result, we are blank (your job) by day, mechanics by night. After you fix enough stuff and learn enough about your truck, then you become a mechanic.

I'm a landscaper by day, mechanic by night...or whenever the truck breaks

We've all had our share of issues and that's the beauty of the forum. We can spill our issues out and bounce ideas off each other.

If you have fuel leaking, is it hard to start? It should be...as fuel leaking out meanings air is leaking in. When air leaks in, we call that air intrusion...and that breaks the system of prime and all your fuel drains back to the tank.

 

Yea it usually takes 3 cycles to get it started when it is cold and sometimes more but haven't not been able to start it yet so hopefully wont run into that.

 

If you're going to tear into it, you're going to need an injector install kit...often called a return line kit.

7.3 L Ford Diesel Fuel Injectors Fuel Pumps Accessories

The idea is to not disturb the returns, as soon as you move those palstic caps on the injector, the seal on the o-ring between the cap and injector breaks and it won't re-seal. The warm fuel passes thru these caps and the o-ring gets hard. So after install, no touch!!

There are several threads here where members buy aftermarket Viton O-rings because Viton is more fuel resistant than generic rubber.
The Dipaco kit you get thru MWFI comes with viton o-rings, I called Dipaco and sat on hold for a while until I got my answer. And no, I did not let them know that I wanted them to say Viton. I had the customer service team look up the material and they told me Viton. That answer made me smile LOL

 

Easiest way to tell is to take the fuel filter off and see if its full after it has sat overnight. If its half way or anything but completely full, there is air intrusion present.

 

Alright I already drove it today so I will check that tomorrow morning and look into getting one of those kits thanks for all the help.

 

another place to look for air intrusion and a fuel leak is the return line after it leaves the intake area. it took me 2 years to find the pinhole in the return line going to the tank. it was dripping on the trans bellhousing.

 

I only need the injector kit if i actually have to replace parts on the system right.

 

You'll need to buy and install the injector kit to replace the current set.
The kit includes new plastic caps, all the o-rings, the fuel line/hose, all the clamps, and 8 copper washers that go on the injectors.
Use everything but the copper washers, keep those for spares in case you need them later.
Some people try to replace just one cap...but the reality is that when you move the returns, there's no way you can work without moving the other caps. You may see a fuel leak, but it'll be there.
I always do all of them at the same time.

 

Alright I am buying it tonight and will get it in a couple days I'll post if I have any problems.