I've been breaking in the new motor (352) this week and have been having problems with the truck stumbling and dieing. Today it completely died and there was no fuel in the carb. I let the truck sit for 1/2 hour and pulled the fuel line off at the carb and had my father crank it over to check for gas flow. I had fuel pressure after a few seconds so I reinstalled fuel line. Truck fired right up. The other day when it acted up; I shut the truck off and opened the hood. I could hear fuel trickling in the carb (Edelbrock.) I looked into the primaries and saw fuel just boiling away. I run the stock mechanical fuel pump and ran all steel brake line from pump to 3" from carb. The 3" of rubber line joins the steel line to the carb inlet. The steel line runs from the fuel pump up along the front of engine, infront of distributor across the front of intake manifold and back towards firewall along passenger side valve cover. Fuel line is spaced away from exhaust, intake manifold and does not touch engine anywhere. Should I run rubber line from drivers side front of engine to the carb? There seems to be two camps when it comes to what material to run for fuel line. Some believe steel should be used and some believe rubber as it expands and doesn't let the fuel boil. Any experienced opinions out there?
Thanks!
Eric

 

Theres a chance your fuel pump is not working correctly. A good running fuel pump should push about 6-7 psi. So if it is old it could be down pretty low.

Also your rubber lines could be allowing the pump to suck air, and thus reducing available psi. Besure to check the fuel tank rubber lines too.

I would try the fuel lines first since they are cheap, and do get old. I like to use feul injection line since it is thicker and more abrasion resistant.

 

What little rubber line I have is all new. Fuel pump is new but that doesn't mean anything. If the fuel pump is bad; wouldn't it act up all the time?

 

I had this problem and I just bent the line about an inch or so more away from the manifold/valve cover and this seems to have helped significantly.

 

I know engines run a little hotter when breaking in but it's been in the 40's here.

 

You could get some rubber house cut it down the middle and wrap it around the metal fuel lines and see if that helps. I was having a problem which i thought was vapor lock. It turned out my ignition coil was overheating do to me not installing a ballast resistor in the duraspark II system.

 

Is your fuel cap a vented cap or nonvented? I also agree with TheThickster check the other things when it acts up. So with the engine off you had fuel flowing in the carb? Does the carb have a insulator plate under it? I prefer the steel lines but insulating them my help your problem can't hurt to a degree.

 

I have a 1" phenolic spacer under the carb. Cap is new and vented. Yes; the engine was off and when I opened the hood; I could hear fuel trickling into the carb. I looked into the primaries and saw fuel dumping and fuel was boiling on top of throttle plates.

 

The edelbrock will only like about four pounds. Any more pressure and it will flood. Always run a fuel regulator with an edelbrock carb or carter AFB

FEs will boil the fuel with the line placement. Do you have a new type pump or the element type?

Do not run rubber line from he pump to the carb, Easiest way to burn the truck up an possibly yourself.

If the problem persists get some spark plug wire sleeve and place it on the line.

Running temps should be in the 160 to 180 range.

Garbz

 

Tank had rust in it and the fuel system was clogging. Going to have tank boiled. Seemed funny that the truck would vapor lock in 40-50 degree weather.
Thanks guys!
Eric

 

For what you will spend having it cooked and lined you can purchase a new one. And the liner will flake or the rust will come back.

Garbz

 

I agree with garbz2 I looked into having mine boiled and lined and decided against it because of cost and the possibility of the lining flaking off. The radiator shops here wanted close to two hundred just to boil it.

 

I'm game if a new tank is cheaper. Hals Radiator shop gets $60.00 to boil a '64 Chevelle SS tank.

Garbz;
Can I get a tank locally?

 

Car and Truck shop in Orange or Blue Oval in Anaheim.

I don't know any one in the valley that may have them.

Garbz

 

Thanks!
Eric