Cruise Control Not Working
#1
Cruise Control Not Working
The cruise control in my recently purchased '01 Excursion isn't working. I've done a lot of searches on the forums and discovered there was a recall for a wiring harness: 2001 FORD EXCURSION Recalls
I called my local dealer and they stated there aren't any open recalls for this vehicle, so the previous owner must have taken care of it.
Is there any way I can verify that the warranty work was done? Can I visually inspect the harness?
Also, are there any ideas of what else I can check to fix the cruise control? The lights on the steering wheel are illuminated.
Thanks in advance!
-Eric
I called my local dealer and they stated there aren't any open recalls for this vehicle, so the previous owner must have taken care of it.
Is there any way I can verify that the warranty work was done? Can I visually inspect the harness?
Also, are there any ideas of what else I can check to fix the cruise control? The lights on the steering wheel are illuminated.
Thanks in advance!
-Eric
#2
Does the horn still blow with the motor running? When the CC went out on my '01, the horn also stopped working ... though the horn would blow with the engine off. In my situation, it was the GEM needing replacement, which also meant a new access code, and the dealer had to reprogram all my fobs & keys.
#5
VSS is Vehicle Speed Sensor. GEM or PCM, I believe is the computer.
Check here with your VIN at Ford's website to see if any recall is still on the truck.
Recall Notices| Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Owners | FLMowner.com
Check here with your VIN at Ford's website to see if any recall is still on the truck.
Recall Notices| Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Owners | FLMowner.com
#6
Check under the hood to see if the recall has been done.
On the master cylinder there is a switch.
The switch may be on the top or underside of the master cylinder.
There will be a harness installed between the switch and the original wiring.
That harness should have 2 fuses.
There is a fuse on both the power supply and the ground legs of the harness in the latest version of the recall fix.
On the master cylinder there is a switch.
The switch may be on the top or underside of the master cylinder.
There will be a harness installed between the switch and the original wiring.
That harness should have 2 fuses.
There is a fuse on both the power supply and the ground legs of the harness in the latest version of the recall fix.
#7
If memory serves me right, the switch on the Master Cylinder is called the "Deactivator Switch", and when it fails, it fails to the 'open' position for safety reasons.
Here is a diagnostic test you can perform on some models:
Enter the Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the "ON" switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
Flashes Source
2 Flashes BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped) is defective
3 Flashes Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective
4 Flashes Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Here is a diagnostic test you can perform on some models:
Enter the Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the "ON" switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostic mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
Flashes Source
2 Flashes BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped) is defective
3 Flashes Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective
4 Flashes Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
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#8
2000 Limited V10… I had the Cruise Control issue as well since I got the truck last year, light on the dash worked, read all the threads that I could looking for the simple thing, replaced the switch on the master cylinder 1st thing. I even printed off the trouble shooting guides months ago. I just never got around to actually doing the trouble shooting to diagnose. Also adding that it would be a huge stretch of the imagination to consider me an electrical genius. One of those things that I just didn’t want to do……
The below is not how I suggest to diagnose the problem, but it worked for me and I still consider it a score.
I was looking at the truck and traced the cable from the throttle body back to the cruise control servo by the battery (I didn’t know where the servo was), and, said to myself, self I wonder if the servo is bad… “Not that it was my idea, I read in here the other day that someone had the issue and replaced the servo and the issue was cured. Score another for the forum.” I also saw that the clips were broken on the connector to the servo, which told me someone had been there before.
I was just at the junk yard that morning (rear wiper arm) so I went back to the junk yard the next day, sure enough the Servo was there with the cable intact “identical part number”, pulled it off in 5 minutes, while wondering if I was doing the right thing or was I making a $25 payment to the stupid tax fund (wouldn't have been my first payment :-) ), paid my $’s, took it home, installed it in 10 minutes and the cruise control now works like it never had an issue.
Once again, not how I would recommend to diagnose a problem by throwing parts at it, but for once. I got away with it plus the cruise control gods were smiling upon me… The Cruise Control Servo was bad and for $25 seemed like some cheap diagnoses for not having much of an idea what I was doing. Looked at Flea-bay last night, cost for new $425 and up.
Hope it helps….
Steve
The below is not how I suggest to diagnose the problem, but it worked for me and I still consider it a score.
I was looking at the truck and traced the cable from the throttle body back to the cruise control servo by the battery (I didn’t know where the servo was), and, said to myself, self I wonder if the servo is bad… “Not that it was my idea, I read in here the other day that someone had the issue and replaced the servo and the issue was cured. Score another for the forum.” I also saw that the clips were broken on the connector to the servo, which told me someone had been there before.
I was just at the junk yard that morning (rear wiper arm) so I went back to the junk yard the next day, sure enough the Servo was there with the cable intact “identical part number”, pulled it off in 5 minutes, while wondering if I was doing the right thing or was I making a $25 payment to the stupid tax fund (wouldn't have been my first payment :-) ), paid my $’s, took it home, installed it in 10 minutes and the cruise control now works like it never had an issue.
Once again, not how I would recommend to diagnose a problem by throwing parts at it, but for once. I got away with it plus the cruise control gods were smiling upon me… The Cruise Control Servo was bad and for $25 seemed like some cheap diagnoses for not having much of an idea what I was doing. Looked at Flea-bay last night, cost for new $425 and up.
Hope it helps….
Steve
#9
#10
I'm currently having an issue with my CC. I should mention that I bought a 2002 X Limited V-10 about 2 weeks ago and have been going through all the little things making sure they all work.
I read Reallymattgray's post and tried the diagnostic test. My system went through through it all with 2 flashes at the end. I had the BPP changed and I still have no Cruise.
One of the guys mentioned since I do not have the factory radio in the truck that could be the problem. I see the Steering Wheel Button receptacle behind the after market radio not being used and unplugged but it is hard for me to believe that is the cause of why my CC is not working, unless it need power to one of the pins. Did anyone of you have an issue with CC after replacing your factory radio?
I read Reallymattgray's post and tried the diagnostic test. My system went through through it all with 2 flashes at the end. I had the BPP changed and I still have no Cruise.
One of the guys mentioned since I do not have the factory radio in the truck that could be the problem. I see the Steering Wheel Button receptacle behind the after market radio not being used and unplugged but it is hard for me to believe that is the cause of why my CC is not working, unless it need power to one of the pins. Did anyone of you have an issue with CC after replacing your factory radio?
#11
#12
However, just a note, when I first got the truck about 2 weeks ago I could press the on button for the CC and then hit the coast button and the CC light on the dash would blink once. I would hit the off button and then the on button again and repeat. Now I do now get it to blink anymore. Not sure if this information is helpful or not.
#13
I had to replace my servo. Mine too when through the test and even made a noise at the end, so I assumed this wasn't the issue. My test pointed towards the brake light switch near the pedal, which I replaced to no avail. My local independent tech suggested that it's usually the servo.
Just as an FYI..there is a video on line and a recent post here that talks about using a $35 servo from an earlier Taurus. The bracket needs to be swapped...but apparently they work fine. That would certainly be an inexpensive thing to try.
Just as an FYI..there is a video on line and a recent post here that talks about using a $35 servo from an earlier Taurus. The bracket needs to be swapped...but apparently they work fine. That would certainly be an inexpensive thing to try.
#14
I had to replace my servo. Mine too when through the test and even made a noise at the end, so I assumed this wasn't the issue. My test pointed towards the brake light switch near the pedal, which I replaced to no avail. My local independent tech suggested that it's usually the servo.
Just as an FYI..there is a video on line and a recent post here that talks about using a $35 servo from an earlier Taurus. The bracket needs to be swapped...but apparently they work fine. That would certainly be an inexpensive thing to try.
Just as an FYI..there is a video on line and a recent post here that talks about using a $35 servo from an earlier Taurus. The bracket needs to be swapped...but apparently they work fine. That would certainly be an inexpensive thing to try.
#15
Ok so, I think those particular Servo Modules are all gone because I could not find the listing anywhere. However, I took notice the part Number in the listing from the video (YF1F-9C734-EB) and I searched that and found them as low as $18 for used and one for $30 that has a one year warranty.