Found my receipts and notes when I did this - might save some folks time and aggravation going back and forth the parts store. This probably applies to 97-02 Expedition. Probably for similar year F-150s too.

This is a DIY, and the idea is not to cut the lines but to use the connecting points to avoid cutting and flaring the lines as it would require good set of flaring tools and skills to do it right. Yes it can be done, but the lines are cheap, and for the love of anything you care about, DO NOT use compression union - they are so labeled not for this app. Don't believe what the guy at the counter tells you .

Bought everything at Autozone but equivalent parts should be available in other parts store. The lines are soft and can be bent by hand. A good quality 5/16"-3/8" flare nut combination wrench would be handy.

#1) ACROSS the left and right wheels:
- 1pc PAX-360 (60" = 5 feet) 3/16" brake line
- 1pc BLU-3C AGS 3/16" 3/8"-24 union
- 1pc PAX-312 (12" = 1 foot) 3/16" brake line
#2) FROM front pump to driver side 'split connector'
- 1pc BLF-22C 3/8"-24 to 7/16"-24 adapter
- 1pc PAX-351 (51" = 4'3") 3/16" brake line
- 1pc BLU-3C AGS 3/16" 3/8"-24 union
- 1pc PAX-372 (72" = 6 feet) 3/16" brake line

note: if 51" is hard to come by, I believe there was enough slack that 2x 60" instead of 1x 51" + 1x 72" will be okay for #2 above.

Work safely and protect your eyes! and skin too!

Cheers!
OrleeC

bleed: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/90...ml#post8125485

Addendum:

#3) Master to ABS Flexi line1:
- 1pc BLF-22C - 3/8"-24 to 7/16"-24 adapter
- 1pc BLF-18C mali box? really BLF-20 - 3/8-24 female 1/2-20 Male
- 1pc PAX-351 (51" = 4'-3" foot) 3/16" brake line

#4) Master to ABS Flexi line2:
- 1pc BLF-22C - 3/8"-24 to 7/16"-24 adapter
- 1pc BLF-27C - 3/8"-24 female 9/16-20 Male
- 1pc PAX-351 (51" = 4'-3" foot) 3/16" brake line

 

While you are replacing your brake lines, you may also want to check your transmission lines and the transmission dipstick tube at the same time for rust.

 

First - thanks to the OP for this very useful post.

One question to others:

In his item #1, "ACROSS the left and right wheels", he lists a 12" brake line and a 60" line and a union, which I assume means he ties them together to make a 72" line. But then in step #2 he calls for a 72" line. So why not just use a 72" line in #1? Is there some technical reason I will discover once I get under there?

Thanks.

 

For the rear wheels there is one line that runs to the back and is then split at a Tee block. From there the 1' line goes to the left wheel and the 5' line goes to the right wheel. Buying the lines separate gives the end threaded ends already on them. If you buy a 6' line and cut it you will have to install then ends on them. I have no idea why or where he's using a coupler back there, or how he's getting away with only using a 1' line to the left wheel.

Step #2 is for running from the front to the back so you need more than 6' of line. That's why that one is coupled with another line.

 

Thanks for the helpful info. I thought #1 and #2 were for the fronts. Makes more sense the way you say.

Not to double post or anything, but just to be ultra-clear, I just posted a new thread with a diagram for future reference.

 

I guess the word REAR in the thread topic eluded you.
"Fixed 99 XP rusted rear brake lines"

 

You're welcome.

The terminals on my 99 require long thread connector. ALL the lines I got from Autozone (including the 72") come with a long thread connector on one end and a short thread connector on the other end. Tying the short threads together with the union gave me a 72" with long threads on both ends.

- OrleeC

 

So - I finally got time to put the truck up on blocks. Got the old lines taken out yesterday - took a while - I was trying to see how hard it would be to get them out in one piece as an indication of how hard it's going to be to get new ones installed in one piece. And it was a major pain!!

Especially along the gas tank where the line is wedged between the gas tank and the frame. Lots of fould language trying to get fingers and tools up in there to undo the clips. Oh, and no stress either with the fuel line and A/C line right beside it.

So - time to put in the new ones.

Question - Has anyone actually managed to install replacement lines right back in the exact same position as the originals, using all the clip points? It looks like a nightmare to me to try to do so.

Thanks.

Oh yeah - 2000 XP, 5.4l, 4wd, EB, auto

 

Well, I got the front line - front the ABS to half way down the frame - in with little problem. Looks like it'snot going to be as bad as I thought. I pre-bent the line for the length within the engine compartment, then stuck it through and bent it in place over the frame. Pretty easy.

Next, that nasty rear half that passes by the gas tank.....

 

Hi Fred, my rear brake line just went, thankfully in the driveway, did you say you have a diagram , Also did you use the identical parts Orleec referenced,

 

Next, that nasty rear half that passes by the gas tank.....[/QUOTE]

When I replaced the brake line along the gas tank, I re-routed it so that I did not have to drop the tank. Just be absolutely certain the line can't get caught on anything or crushed by floor jack on the frame.

 

I have 2001 XLT 5.4, what did you use to attach line to frame for the new run location