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Rear brakes squeling

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Old 11-02-2010, 08:09 PM
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Rear brakes squeling

my rear brakes are squeeking everytime i come t oa stop. it is getting really annoying and embarrasing at the same time. What can i do to stop this? there is plenty pad left on the brakes so i dont think it needs a new set yet.
 
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:31 PM
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The only way to really tell if the pad material is alright is to take the wheel off and get in there. You may see the front side pads looking ok but the backside pad may be under spec or rubbing the wear indictor. If the pads look ok and have good material across all sides, you can get some anti-squeal at any auto store. You apply it to the backside of the pads to help quell vibration which typically can cause the squealling noise. If you're going to take it down to check it out than you might as well make sure the pistons/seals are ok and your slides are well lubed. Clean it all up with brake clean and slap it back together.
 
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:08 PM
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Are they the original pads? How much is left on both pads? Gddyup is right, have to take the wheel off to determine these things.
 
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:55 AM
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Here is where good old bust your butt work comes in. When I rotate tires I inspect the pads, clean and lube the sliders. This way every 6k you stay on top of pending problems. Wife 02 Explorer did not need new brakes till 64K all original. My 07 El Limited Expy has 46k and plenty of pad left. This is also where getting FREE tire rotation is really crap. You know they do not inspect or lube the parts.
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:54 AM
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Boomer, what do you lube the sliders with?
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:43 PM
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07Expy... Just hit the auto parts store and buy a small tub of synthetic grease. Grab a pack of acid brushes too. All you need to do, is if you decide to peel the brake caliper off the backing plate, is lube up the slides with some synthetic grease and slap it back together. That will keep the slides lubed up and allow the caliper to free return to it's position. If the claiper is peeled back, grab a pair of channel lock pliers and press the caliper piston in a tad too to ensure that it's not frozen in the bore. as long as the slides are lubed and the piston moves freely than you should be in pretty good shape.
 
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:45 PM
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Friend of mine got me a small tube of (silicon grease PTFE), but from Volvo. Comes in a small tube. You can also use a screw driver to lift the pad up just enough to squeeze the lube in the area between the pad and slider. If you let it go too long, I also spray it first with brake-clean and use a tiny wire brush if needed. Don't get the brake-clean on the pads. Anything to keep them clean. Have also used anti-seize lubricant on the slides.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 09:15 AM
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Are the sliders sealed at all? I just did the front brakes fro the first time on my 2003 Camry @ 112K miles (yes they lasted that long) and I couldn't actually see the slider rods, as they had a rubber boot over them. I thought this was a good design to keep the brakes reliable. I live in the Phoenix Arizona area, so we have no salt and very little rain to fight with. Rust is not an issue, but rubber parts drying out from the intense heat, well that's another issue.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:59 AM
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Sorry, what I call the sliders are the actual ends of each pad that contact/slide on the frame. Yeah, the pins or bolts that hold each caliper in place does slide but they are sealed with rubber boots. I only touch those at a true brake job. In lubeing the ends of each pad where they contact the frame there is build up of rust that I keep clean.
 
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:47 AM
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Got it. Since you're in Chicago and I'm in Phoenix, this isn't something I've ever had to worry about. Rust is not an issue.
 
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