I've read all the threads about replacing the lock cylinder and what started out as the 15 minute version has turned into the 2-3 hour version.

I have the non-tilt column and we were able to get the lock cylinder out with some 'persuasion' but now the new one won't seat down completely. It looks like the brass gears inside the housing are out of alignment with the slot. We've tried moving them but no luck.



As you can see, we've removed the steering wheel and covers on the column and now we're to the part where we are supposed to unbolt the column and lower it.
But the instructions I've been able to find are for the cylinder in the lock position. Ours is in the run position. So what do we do now?

When removing the bolts for the column, which ones do I need to remove? All six of them or just the two upper ones on the outside?


BTW, the cover for the key release is a PITA. I may just slice it in half and glue it back together later unless you guys have better idieas.


Finally, in removing all the guts inside the steering wheel, which screws do I really need to remove and which ones do I leave alone?

The shiny silver one at 9 o'clock is obviously the turn signal and then there are two more (at Noon and 6 just to the left of the shaft), then there is one way down deep at about 1 o'clock and then the two black headed ones on the right hand side.

Here's the link to the full size pictures.
Picasa Web Albums - Tim - Ford Project ...

Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated!

Here are the steps I'm following from another thread. We're down to #5.

Non-Functioning Cylinder or No Key Available
FIXED COLUMNS

1. Disconnect the battery ground.

2. Remove the steering wheel.

3. Remove the turn signal lever.

4. Remove the column trim shrouds.

5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.

6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.

7. Remove the turn signal switch.

8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.

9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.

10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.

Here's the thread for the whole rebuild project.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ect-truck.html

 

When I did mine I just took a flat blade screw driver and turned the brass gear and lined it up with the outer washer.

you got the key cylinder out.... I do not see a need to take more apart? Unless your trying to replace something else? you should be able to line up the brass gear and pop the cylinder back in.

There should be just one brass gear if its broke in two you might be in trouble. The brass gear slips on the key cylinder and as you turn the key the brass gear pulls or pushes a die cast gear that in turn is hooked the the steel rod, that is hooked to your ignition switch.

FYI the outer washer WILL NOT turn only the inside brass gear turns. If its having a little trouble going in just wiggle the key back and forth and it should pop right in. Had to go get a cylinder and housing off the shelf and look at it. The one I have here is a standard shift one, I just rebuild two a couple months ago. one just like you have as the shifter part was wore out form snow plowing and the ever changing gears, and one in my 91 with tilt as ??? I forget why I was in there but that one sucked! LOL

 

Is the tumbler & gear in run position? It has to be so the pin in the tumbler can retract to slide down the housing, and come out & seat in the hole for it. Shouldn't have to remove the column or anything. Use a screwdriver as Ohiofarmford said, turn it to run in the column, turn the tumbler to the same position, and push it home

 

Thanks for all the feed back guys, it helped a lot. I decided to take one more pass at getting that blasted cylinder back in before I took things completely apart.

I was able to use a big, flat bladed screw driver and set it down in the recess where the stub of the lock cylinder goes and turn it clockwise just like I was trying to start it.
I noticed that there was a brass lever on top of the steering column that moved when I rotated the screw driver. So, I rotated the screw driver as far as I could and held the rod down with my left hand and was able to slide the lock cylinder in all the way. I let go of the rod and turned the key from the run position to the lock position. I then was able to use the key release and take the key out.

But, I don't think that fixed my problem. I'll start another thread for that and post pic's tomorrow about what I described above so that if someone else has this problem they'll know how to fix it (or at least know more than I did when I started).

Thanks again guys!

 

I made the mistake of pulling the wheel also, but I did have to fix the rod where it attaches to the gear for the ignition. I got all of that done and now I have a new problem. My shifter will not move out of park. Somewhere in the process I have done something wrong. I have another column and it is doing the same thing. I need help. I have been told that there is a shift lock, but I don't know where it is. Both columns are tilt the one in my E-150 van has the shift indicator on the column, and the other column does not.

 

I need to replace ignition switch cylinder on 89 F150 manual shift. I have been reading conflicting information about the need to remove steering wheel to gain access to cylinder release pin. I really don't want to remove steering wheel if there is no need. All help will be greatly appreciated.

 

The moderators don't like it when you revive old threads.
You should start a new one.

For your 89 with manual transmission it should take a couple of
minutes to remove and install a new key cylinder.

Look at the picture posted. The red arrow points to a metal pin
you push inward on to release the ignition key cylinder assembly.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (Don 't have to but I would).
Turn the ignition key to Run.
Look at the Hazard switch (the switch you pull out to turn on the hazard lights).
You will see a hole in the column that allows access to the pin.
Use a punch or nail and push inward on the pin and at
the same time pull the ignition key cylinder assembly from the
steering column.

Turn the new ignition key cylinder to the the run position and
push it into the steering column. The locking pin will snap
back in place.

Verify all five positions work.
Accessories
Lock
Off
Run/On
Start
Reinstall the negative battery terminal.

h

 

Thanks for the heads up about reviving old threads. It was my first post and I have found the site a little over whelming.

I followed your instructions and it only took me about a minute to replace. Everything works as new.

I will start a new thread the next time I have a question. Thanks again for the help.