Great customer service, and great products, You shouldn't have any issues with them.

Just a thank you to the contributors of this thread, I'm back on the road using your information! Was running rough and thought i had air in system due to 1/4 tank pickup tube issue (let the tank get too low) but exhaust temp test told me to check passenger side, then Ohms tests failed, replaced passenger vc gasket, uvch and exterior vch, had a successful ohms test and its running great now!

My contribution: to do the I+C ohms tests take a small alligator clip and cram one of your multi meter prongs into it, clamp that to common center post of plug and then you only have to manage one prong to touch each "I" injector port in the plug.

Also, I'm with those that say it isn't necessary to take the inner fender well out on passenger side to remove valve cover, just a swivel adapter and "feel" for VC bolts is all that's needed.

hi,

I am new to the forum. All that is described is the same problem that we are having. We have a couple of questions.

1. Any recommendations for what brand of replacement glow plugs to get?

2. Should we replace the valve cover gaskets?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
John & Christina

Motorcraft ZD-11.

Clay at Riffraff has great service.
Motorcraft Glowplugs ZD-11 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Valve cover gaskets are re-useable. Check for burnt pins on the connectors.

So i was driving my truck home earlier this week and I pulled out onto the highway applied about half throttle and the truck really started shaking accompanied by a massive loss in power. Fortunately I was close to home and I was able to limp her back to the garage. I has a slight shimmy at idle both in park and neutral and it still misses in neutral when I apply throttle. I have been feverishly reading (I read all 17 pages of this thread) trying to figure out what might have happened and this thread seems to be spot on with everything except one thing, it is not intermittent and I have no CEL. Am I going the right way?

2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 290,000 miles.

There are a lot of things that could cause that, but my first question is how many miles are there on your injectors? Are they original with nearly 300k miles? Prior to the massive power loss, did you feel any misfire or shudder in a high gear, at very light throttle on flat ground?

So I bought it with 250k. I'm unsure if the injectors age. However, the truck was maintained very well. There was no sign of a pending failure. Everything was fine and all of a sudden something gave out

It could be that a connector on one of the under valve cover harnesses has come loose, but that should set an SES light. On that subject, are you sure the bulb works; does it come on when you turn the key on? Is there any difference whether the engine is warm or cold? Anything that seems to make it better or worse?

100% sure my bulb works. I had a CEL the day before that I cleared when I replaced my EBP sensor. As far as the truck acting differently hot or cold I don't know. It was at operating temp when it started. I haven't started it again cold. I can check that when I get home

What diagnostic software do you have? Can you run a KOEO and buzz test and see if those return any codes?

I don't have access to software to run either test. It is extraordinarily expensive?

Why don't you start with the ohm test and a multi meter described in post #2 of this thread? That's a simple way to rule things in or out. If the ohm test passes and the truck still runs bad, it's time to move on to something else, but lets at least rule something out first without dumping a bunch of money on anything.

No, not really, especially if you have an Android device with Bluetooth. You can get a bluetooth OBD-II adapter and install Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro and be in it for about $25.00. Torque Pro is a better program for monitoring, and it's pretty user friendly. Car Gauge Pro will run the injector buzz and other tests, but it's rather clunky and unintuitive. There's also AutoEnginuity if you have a WinD'ohs laptop. It's a good package and a lot of people use it for monitoring and testing. It's more expensive at about $360, including their proprietary OBD-II adapter. Where are you located? Maybe someone nearby wouldn't mind dropping by, hooking up to your truck and running the tests.

Either way, it couldn't hurt to pop the valve covers and make sure the harnesses and connectors are in good shape. Even if they aren't loose, it's a good idea to check the pins on the inside and outside for any signs of melting/burning.

I agree and I will be testing it this weekend

So the first idea with the apps is quite appealing but neither will work since I have apple everything. As a matter of fact I just took my old dell laptop to the range and destroyed it and hour ago. It was fun!
I live in North Pole, AK. I appreciate the help thus far and I will report back with my findings on the two valve cover connectors

Left side from rear to front

.6 .6 2.6 2.6 C 2.6 2.6 .6 .8

Right side from rear to front

.6 .7 2.5 2.8 C 2.6 2.6 .6 .6

Those resistances all look good. If it's a wiring problem, it's either elsewhere or it's intermittent.

Where do I look next? ICP and pig tail was replaced a week ago along with a new fuel filter

since I don't believe this to be the 50 cent mod I have created a new thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14275104

Hey guys! Not sure if I'm posting a new thread or not. Anyway, I have the symptoms of a loose injector harness. The only difference, and I've not seen anyone mention, is my rough running engine happens intermittently. It sometimes does it on start-up, sometimes at 70 mph on the highway, sometimes just sitting at a stop light. Could happen anytime. Other times it runs just fine. It started doing this mid to late last fall and when winter finally did set in, I never had a problem at all. Well, now that spring is here and warmer temps, it's acting up again. Also, turning the ignition off and restarting sometimes "fixes" the problem temporarily. Is there somewhere else I should be looking other than the injector harness? Very weird! Thanks in advance for your help!!

It's a pretty cheap fix if it is the harness, I did it with help from a friend. You should take it apart and fix it yourself also. Mine did that as well with it not being able to start at times or randomly stalling.

hello
 

Hello can someone take a measurement from the end of the plug that loosens up to the valve cover gasket thanks

Black smoke due to loose UVCH?
 

Hi all, I'm a new poster here, though have gleaned some good information here in the past 7 years running a 7.3L. Our 2002 F350 7.3L with a bit over 200k miles on it has random SES/CEL light that comes on with severe misfire and code P1316, major loss of power, and black smoke with throttle. EGTs drop drastically when this happens (200 or less at idle, maybe 400 if started at 800 going up a hill before misfire started). This may happen while sitting idling after startup, while into the throttle going up a hill, or when idling hot after running a while--anytime hot or cold. It comes and goes, but normally doesn't go unless idling (will keep misfiring if above idle). It may even have a mild misfire when SES/CEL light is not on, but is not obvious (just seems like idle has a slight rough spot in it now and then). When CEL/SES light is on, the power loss ranges from major to extreme; with steady throttle on level grade there are noticeable changes in the amount of power while misfiring. Under throttle with CEL/SES light, there is always black smoke, more with more throttle.

I've read the thread. Thank you all for all the great info. I haven't noticed anyone else mentioning black smoke, but maybe I missed it. Could the loose UVCH issue result in black smoke along with the shaking loss of power (seems like running on well under 8 cylinders) that can come and go while the truck sits idling?

When the CEL/SES light is off, the truck has good power and seems to run normally--except for the possibility of an occasional minor miss on idle (slight shake).

As background, I had similar issues before recent replacement of all injectors (were original at over 200k miles and had seemed lower on power and hard to start without plugging in even mildly below freezing for some time) and the injector wiring harness (done by a diesel shop for plenty of $$$$). The major difference is that before the injector replacement, there was no smoke regardless of how much throttle when the CEL/SES light was on for P1316 and truck was shaking with barely enough power to move in a parking lot. Now there's plenty of black smoke with throttle...

The new injectors are single shots which required a tuner (PHP Hydra). I've confirmed the issue happens regardless of which tune the truck is running, hot or cold, idling, or working hard. When it happens, so far turning the truck off and restarting always results in it running relatively normally again for anywhere from 5-10s to several minutes. I might be good for the first 10min of a drive--though not always; it may happen while idling for a few moments after startup--but once it starts happening, it usually recurs quickly even if it goes away on restart (which it so far always does).

I'm thinking I need to check the UVCH's even though they're new (less than 2000 miles on them and injectors), and check connections all the way from IDM to there as well.

We recently had the apparently original alternator fail suddenly (burnt insulation) and replaced with a DC Power 270 XP along with upgraded 1/0 ground from mounting bolt to frame and 1/0 charging cable from alternator to battery. I doubt this is relevant, but thought I'd throw it in just in case. The problem most recently starting occuring while limping home with dead alternator (45min drive in boonies--worst voltage seen while running without alternator 11.5V). Alternator replaced and good voltage now, but the problem is still there. However, the problem did occur just once immediately after the injector job about 10min from the shop driving freeway speed on the freeway. It went away with 30s of idling on the side of the road and did not occur again for the 1000 mile drive home or short trips near home since then till alternator failure. To add another variable into the mix, that drive home was with a couple standard single-shot injector tunes the shop threw on as PHP hadn't got the custom tunes out yet. Those tunes did not run as smoothly and produced some soot flakes from tailpipe at idle. Received and installed PHP tunes (and ditched the temp ones) some time before the misfire/P1316/CEL issue recurred recently.

We like the truck and plan to keep it for a good while yet, and are hoping this is our last significant reliability issue after new heavy duty rebuild on tranny and larger tranny cooler (was original and showed some beginnings of bad wear inside on inspection after some random overheating episodes--first one under GCVW 25,000 lbs up a steep highway at around 0 deg C and last one empty truck at -40 deg C) and injectors in last two years. We live in a very remote location with no shop or parts store nearby (pretty well anything is a 10hr drive away).

I am curious if the black smoke under throttle along with low EGTs is normal for the UVCH issue, or if there's something else I should be looking at. Please let me know if you have any further ideas/cautions/suggestions based on symptoms and history noted.

And please let me know if you have any other questions. I do not have AutoEnginuity, but plan to buy it. SCT device just gives P1316, nothing else.

If there's a P1316, it means the IDM has codes stored. In order to access those, you need a scan tool capable of running a KOEO or injector buzz test. The lower EGTs would correspond to the reduced amount of fuel burned, caused by cylinders that aren't firing.

Thanks Pikachu. That all makes sense. I've convinced myself I need to order AutoEnginuity Monday, and hopefully get it within a week to to KOEO and buzz tests (no shop around here than can do this).

I'm still puzzled over the black smoke during P1316/CEL/misfire, and whether that fits with a loose UVCH and wondering if it is something else. It seems like this would be timing related rather than less/no injection on some cylinders (and UVCH is new), but all the other symptoms seem to fit what others have posted and resolved with UVCH fix. :confused: Anyone else with the UVCH issue have black smoke with throttle during misfire episodes, or am I headed down the wrong road with UVCH?

Black smoke, at least in my mind, would make sense. The cylinders that are firing are probably getting too much fuel for the reduced boost level and not completely burning it.

The lower EGT's actually tells you where your problem is. If your pyro probe is in the driver side up pipe, then your driver side UVCH connector is suspect. The reason the EGT's are so low is because some of your cylinders in the bank with the probe are not firing.

Of course they could also drop if the other side stops firing since you're not really putting enough fuel through there to get the truck moving well.

The last time I saw a whole bank go out, it was the passenger side (on another truck). The driver side (with the pyro) got hotter-n-hell just driving around town. The next time the truck misbehaves, bear in mind the side without the probe is getting real hot.

Thanks all. Yes, EGT probe is on driver's side up-pipe. Good point about the other side... every time something acts up I need another gauge... EGT per side. Don't expect that'll get enough use to be worth it though :)

So no one else noticed black smoke when into the throttle with misfire due to UVCH issues. I may try ohming things out Sunday, though with the issue being so intermittent (and disappearing for at least a bit every time the engine is stopped/restarted) I'm not sure if that will show anything. I may just have to pull the driver's side valve cover and inspect the recent work done in there--and I'll leave the dog house in place thanks to an earlier poster's tip and the fact the closest parts are several days shipping away. There's nothing obvious wrong with the harness on top the engine on the outside, though I'd have to pull apart the loom and tape to be sure.

I have a Swamps 140V high frequency IDM on the way just in case (takes a while to get anything up here and second vehicle is an ATV...), but want to make sure there isn't anything wrong with wiring that could wreck a new IDM if the old one is indeed dying.

Nice avatar Rich :) Gave me a good chuckle. We've spent more on the truck in the last two years than we paid for it (used). But to be fair, there weren't any significant expenses (besides fluid changes, etc) for several years of good driving before that. At this point, I'd like to see it run till up somewhere closer to the miles Chris has; have spent way too much on it to sell/trade it, and we like the truck.

check to make sure your injector plugs are in tack if so then one is more than likely clogged
 

mine did same thing was ready to bang head aginst wall but come to find out finally that injector was not plugged in correctly it had loose connection! hope this helps

Hello can someone take a measurement from the end of the plug that loosens up to the valve cover gasket thanks

Sorry VROD, I haven't taken off the valve covers at this point, so I'm not sure what that measurement is, though I'm curious what you'd want it for.

I'm starting to doubt my problem is the UVCH, so I'm starting a new thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14585477. If I find out it was the UVCH after all, I'll post back here.

Uh? I have an old UVCH in my "box of shame". Do you need a measurement from that?

yes from the edge of the valve cover to where it unplugs if you can thanks

My intermittent, but worse when hot problem turned out to be cylinder 6 injector wire shorting to valve cover where wires exit 42-pin connector and tend to rub against valve cover. IDM code was P0276. Details in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14586703.

no resistance on injector
 

Hi! great thread! My engine started running rough, I check ohms like was suggested, I had no resistance on #3 on drivers side, so took apart, but my problem was the clip that holds the lead on the injector it self came lose, don't know how that happened, but it did. Put it back together and now purrs like a kitten! hope this helps someone else! Thanks guys!

So I just pulled my drivers side valve cover tonight and my connection was loose so I did the 50 cent mod and put everything back together and cranked it up and everything was good except now my HPOP press gauge isn't reading anything at all?? Also it sounds like my afe intake now has more of a rumble to it alsmost like I can hear inside the motor from my air filter. I don't remember it sounding like this before. Any ideas?

Maybe you missed the CCV hose... it's been known to happen (unless I'm the only one) :-roll

How does your HPOP guage get it's reading?

Testing the injectors "I" and "C", I had a reading of around 7.2 on a couple of contacts. After tightening the inside connector, the reading was still 5.2 on one connector. Still not under 5 ohms. The other connectors had correct readings. Should I spend the quarter and put it back together or should I investigate it further?

I apologize if this is already covered. I thank you all in advance and I thank all who contributed to this thread already. It has been a big help. Terran

Without knowing the symptoms that got you to this point, we can't give you an answer. My first suggestion would be to start the truck up (valve covers off is ok) and see how that affects whatever issue you might be having.

Starting a new thread with all your specific symptoms and steps taken thus far would be even better.