I'll give it a try.

maybe a different code reader
 

The less expensive code scanners recognize all the codes common to all vehicles, but maybe not all the codes used by the manufacturer for specific vehicles. I bought the most expensive one that O'Reilly's had in stock, about $300, and it reads all the Ford codes so far, and will read ABS codes that other scanners don't pick up as well. Just saying, check what the scanner can do that you are using/borrowing.

Also, the missing problem is gone from my truck, after the post above, and it is running on all cylinders. I still had occasional shake-of-death symptoms, so looked into it further. The night before my long trip, pressed for time, I had Jiffy Lube change my oil. As part of the service, they checked the tire pressure and lowered my front tires to 45 psi because that is what the door label said. That caused the shake-of-death I was still experiencing on my trip. I keep the front at 60 psi and the rattle/shake that happens at speed, that starts as one wheel goes over a different bump than the other.

There is a Ford service bulletin about the tire inflation, and several people claim their was some angles wrong in the suspension for the solid axles, and that some lift kits actually correct the angles. I'm not in a market for a lift kit, but keeping the front tires up to 60 seems to stop the shake/rattle I was getting.

There is a couple of good You-Tube videos taken buy a car along side a guy's truck that show the shimmy that results.
Worth searching for "Ford rattle of death" and watching it.

I related that because that was the ultimate cause of my problems (after I got the "missing" taken care of by the quarters).

I don't think your problem sounds like it is suspension related since nobody else is talking about the cool-down needed to restart and continue.

Maybe getting access to a better code reader would help to get the code the check engine light is telling you about. Locally, Autozone will read codes for you for free (hoping you will buy the parts there, of course).

You probably wasted your money on the code reader. At least for your psd. Auto Engenuity is the pretty popular for our trucks. Clay in my signature sells them.

The codes from the ABS should be generic OBDII codes, which most scanners should read. The issue we have is the 7.3 diesel engine was designed as a medium duty truck engine and therefore did not meet OBDII requirements. To be sure, unplug your ICP sensor and start the truck. The CEL will come on and you should see a P1280 code.

If the CEL comes on and you don't see that code, then you will likely not see other engine specific codes.

I wasn't aware of any door panels that said 45 psi, but I agree that is too low.


There are several videos on Youtube that show the "death rattle", but they are for the 05 and newer trucks when they changed the front suspension to coils instead of leaf springs.

Does this issue occur on the 2003 model? I saw info that said the clip had been changed on the late 2002 and 2003 7.3.

My 2003 F250 is showing all these symptoms. Will do all the tests this weekend to verify.

Later trucks did have an updated harness, however there still have been some that worked loose.

2002 7.3L Excursion
 

I have this problem occurring again, at least its behaving the same.
Passenger side bank is not running.
Checked the under valve covering wiring harness connection and it was tight, the way I left it when I fixed it last time (2 years ago). So it doesn't sem to be the connector.

Any ideas on what may be causing this?
Could it be a single bad injector causing the IDM to turn off the pass bank?
Somebody else mentioned an injector solenoid being bad, causing the bank to go out. Is there a single injector solenoid for each bank? I thought each injector was a solenoid?

Thanks very much, Sean.
http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...2/confused.gif

Each injector has it's own solenoid. Yes, if the IDM detects a bad solenoid, it will shut down that entire bank. Have you ohmed the injectors yet to try and determine if any are reading different?

2002 7.3L Excursion
 

Chris,

The resistances were:
Front GPlug GPlug 3.12 3.15 3.09 3.20 GPlug GPlug Back

I should have mentioned the problem is intermittent. Although a fluke at this point if it works (on all 8 cylinders).

Thanks again!

The problem with intermittent issues is, unless you test it when it's acting up, you likely won't find what's causing the problem. Next time you take it apart be sure to inspect closely for burnt or loose pins in any of the connectors. Also keep those ohm numbers handy for comparison if you get a chance to test it later when it's acting up.

2002 7.3L Excursion
 

Chris,

I meant to say that before I took it apart it was intermittent. When I took it apart it was running on 4 cylinders (drivers side), and its still apart.

The resistances are consistent but do you think they're high?
Front GPlug GPlug 3.12 3.15 3.09 3.20 GPlug GPlug Back
Any ideas based on this?
I guess the injectors are OK?

Thanks, Sean.

When you're ohming the injectors, you're looking for one that's off from the rest. Yours are pretty close. It seems like the one I ran into read about 0.5 ohms off from the others. 3.xx are the most common readings on these injectors, but if you're looking for something to do, you could ohm the other side just for comparison purposes.

Chris,

No burnt pins/plugs.

I wonder if it could be the IDM or how you know if it is at fault?

Thanks, Sean.

If you're wanting the recommended test procedure to help narrow it down to wiring or IDM issues, look at this link. GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

Unfortunately, there's no magic test that says the IDM is bad (unless it's full of water or you pull it apart and see burnt pieces). All you can do is rule out other possibilities.

You might be able to narrow it down to which injector by checking for misfire codes.
P0300 is a general misfire
P0301 through P0308 lists which cylinder is misfiring.

Welcome back Dan.

Thank you, Chris.
Needed to take and FTE break for a while, was getting burned out.

Will have to try the Tech Bulletin tests for the IDM/harness/etc.
For codes I got P1316 and pending P0683, cleared them, then got codes P1316 and pending P0683 and P1247.
I have to go to California tomorrow, looks like rental car or flying!
Thanks very much, Sean.

To test the wiring (for the tech bulletin), is there any 'easy' way to get at the IDM? I tried to remove the inner (driver's side) fender liner and that's not working very well, Sean.

I had the SES light and that whole vehicle shake issue this last weekend. I read this post related to the quarter solution for the UVCH fix. Took it to my trusted diesel mechanic who confirmed that the drivers side back was bad (wires fried). Had to purchase new gasket and rewire harness for that. However the issue also affected the Injector Drive Modual, which had to be replaced. Holy cow is that thing expensive!! What exactly does it do? And it is normal for that IDM to go bad as a result of a fried harness connection? The truck has 200K on it, so I guess I can't complain too much, or can I?

The IDM(Injector Drive Module) is what sends the amplified output voltage to the solenoids of the injectors, so yes faulty wiring can and will cause issues.

Still haven’t found the problem, any other ideas?

I have this problem occurring again, after fixing it 2 years ago.

Here’s a summary:
- Running on only 4 cylinders (drivers side)

- Got P1316 and pending P0683, cleared them,
then got codes P1316 and pending P0683 and P1247.

- Connector at valve cover looks good, no burnt pins,
and resistances (passenger side) look OK:
Passenger: Front GPlug GPlug 3.12 3.15 3.09 3.20 GPlug GPlug Back

- Did all Tech Bulletin tests for the harness/connectors/injectors
All passed. Injector test reistances:
Passenger: Front 3.60 3.50 3.07 3.54 Back; cylinders 1 3 5 7
Driver: Front 3.35 3.19 3.20 3.28 Back; cylinders 2 4 6 8

I guess the injectors are OK? Do I just replace the IDM, hoping that’s it?

Any further help would be appreciated, thanks!

So the passenger side is dead, right? Unplug cylinder #5, clear codes, and start it back up. See if the passenger side starts working except for the #5 of course.

That injector is a bit off from the others. That could indicate a bad injector solenoid, which would cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank.

did shop make it worse?
 

2001 Excursion 7.3 bone stock 200k miles.

2 weeks ago, truck near home began to run really rough, no power. Wife limped home at 10 mph. When I got home from travel, inquired with her about maintenance done. (I'm not an Ogre, she insists it's "her truck only" until something which she doesn't want to mess with breaks). After much discussion, it had not had an oil change in 10K (on Amsoil). The fuel tank had 3 gallons in it. I immediately changed oil and fuel filter, filled with diesel with Lucas conditioner and Marvel. Truck ran like a 6000 lb. swiss watch. Problem solved???? Not quite.
3 days ago, leaving the house, the truck started fine but did not make the stop sign before rough running shaking, no power. I got home (I travel....a lot) Friday and limped it to what I thought was a reasonably competent small shop 2 miles from home.(I've used this shop for 10 years or so for simple items items I couldn't make time to do myself. Diff fluid change, tranny service, u-joints....) Before I went, I talked to the owner and asked as to which diagnostic tool he had and if he was at all familiar with the 7.3. He said he could scan it, and do a buzz test, and was very familiar with the UVCH problem. I dropped the truck off with instructions to run the tests and give me the results but to do no reapirs until I could evaluate the results. I went back the next afternoon to inquire about the results. He wasn't there, but his shop manager met with me.
Results were "Failed IDM, bad #8 injector, all glow plugs bad (note: never cold start problem or white smoke), bad VC gasket connections. Need to replace iDM, #8 inj, all GP (both sides) and both VC gskt." I asked him for codes and buzz test results. Answer "The mechanic didn't keep them, but Ive got you an estimate" $3000.00 right side, $5000 both sides. BS. To add injury to insult, I paid my $65.00 bill (for no damned results) and got in the truck to limp it home. No start, not even an attempt to fire. Plenty of cranking speed, tach needle moves when cranking, wait to start light works as normal. Went back inside and asked if they unplugged anything. "Nah dude, started fine for us, sorry it must have failed...." Towed truck home, nothing obvious. Unplugged ICP, no change.

I have 3 questions for the group.
What could they have unplugged to cause the no start? It started fine (just ran badly) before they "diagnosed" it.

Can an intermittent UVCH problem progress into a no start condition on it's own?

Is there a trustworthy Powerstroke shop in the Galveston County area?

Due to age and injury related medical issues, I'm fighting to even complete the GB 103. I'm not half bad on diagnosis (ASE Master 30 years ago, A&P, FAA licensed Avionics), I just don't have the body mechanics. Frustrating.

Thanks

additional info
 

codes I can get with ScanGauge II (KOEO, will not start)
P0674
P1316
P1280

PID 03 Loop is open

los = 37

Try clearing your codes. Also check for unplugged connectors at the valve cover or IDM. 1316 is your code telling you there are IDM codes (that often point to UVCH issues) 1280 means you unplugged the ICP sensor.

What PID is 03? I'm not familiar with the numbers, but if we knew what it was referencing, it might be useful. I'm also not familiar with LOS, so I don't know what to say about your value = 37.

I'd also check your fuses and relays just in case the shop decided to remove one or something got shorted out while they were testing. IDM's don't typically fail like that, but it's possible. I'd say you've got about as good a chance as winning the lottery as you have of all 8 glow plugs, the #8 injector, and the IDM all failing at one time.

Chris, you d'man. The engine ran on 7 with #5 injector disconnected. Thanks very much. I guess I'm off to buy an injector. It is surprising to me that the engine will run with the bad injector disconnected (open circuit), but won't run (at least those 4 cylinders) with the injector connected. Thanks again, Sean.

Thanks, Chris.
I'm still trying to figure out PID 03 and LOS.
I appreciate the logic check. I smelled Bravo Sierra with the diagnosis, compounded by the refusal to give me the codes. My assumption is the mechanic figured "I'll do the UVCH, charge this guy out the wazoo for work not done and make me a killing."
I also believr you are right, they unplugged something to "help me" with my decision to get it repaired there. He wes very helpful. Told me that the stealership just happened to have and IDM and a number 8 Injector to fit the truck in stock. The IDM was $1500.00, the #8 Injector (he said I was lucky it's the cheap one) was only $600.00..........
Now chasing unpluged and or disconnected.............

Dee

I'm guessing the new injector got you up and running, assuming you verified it wasn't a shorted wire to that injector.

Even if it was the IDM, you can get a GB reman IDM (I've linked to their testing procedures earlier) from Rock Auto $220 plus core charge. Hire a local kid to do the labor and you're still way under half of what the shop was quoting you. Find someone local with a 94 - 03 7.3 diesel and swap IDM's with them for a test would let you know for sure. (The IDM is located up above the driver side front wheel well.) But as mentioned, check for something unplugged, blown fuses, or swap around important sounding relays like IDM for ones like the heater blower motor first.

got it fixed
 

Kudos to Lone Star Diesel.

Home Page

They are top notch.


Turned out to be bad IDM that was intermittent and finally hard failed.
Confirmed by testing with a known good IDM.
Further (bigger) problem is both vc gasket uvch connectors were burned at the outer pins (glow plugs), 5 glow plugs shorted to ground, and harnesses burned. Lucky it didn't catch fire before it failed. There is no fused protection in the glow pug circuit to protect from over amp in case of a short post GPCM / Relay.
I wonder what the maximum safe draw for that harness is?
I may try to wire in a circuit breaker or fused link to protect it from a dead short in the future.

Any ideas?

[QUOTE=F350-6;12401279]I'm guessing the new injector got you up and running, assuming you verified it wasn't a shorted wire to that injector.

Chris, I haven't changed the injector yet. Wondering if I should change all 8 to avoid having to change the other injectors in the furture, and because I've heard it will improve performance and fuel mileage. I've also heard a number of times to 'only change an injector if it actually fails'.

Any recommendations?

I'm looking at the 'Pensacola Fuel Injection' +70hp injectors.

Thanks very much for all your help, Sean.

If you want plus HP injectors, then you need to do all 8. If you buy from Pensecola, plan on having to swap them out several times. They have the worst reputation of any injector builder I've heard of.

You're better off spending more money and getting injectors that actually work in my opinion.

Wondering which injectors are recommended? Has anyone had problems with Mylex International reman'd injectors? I guess the new Alliant injectors are good, but expensive. Thanks in advance, Sean.

Never heard of them personally, how much are they?

Rebuilds are around 120 or so and I would only use some of the vendors with some good reputations, i.e. full force diesel(Casserly), Rosewood diesel, unlimited diesel, or swamps diesel.

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel fuel injectors | Ford Powerstroke fuel injectors | 7.3L Fuel Injector - Full Force Diesel / Casserly

I am experiencing this same problem...
 

My 2000 F250 7.3L is hard to start in the morning and the SES light comes on, and when I put a code reader on it I get codes P0671 and P0672 which is glow plug #1 and GP #2, or circuit failure. I am starting to think that my UVCH might be slightly unplugged under the VC. So, I am going to buy all 8 glow plugs and replace them, and while I am under the VC I plan to check these other items at that time. I will know by this weekend what my real problems are. My truck starts smoothing out after it warms up for ten min...it will smooth out and not idle so shaky. Thanks for this post.

The other guys on here know a lot more about this than I do - but it looks like to me you're on the right track. If your UVCH were causing the problem (loose connector), the problem is either persistent or intermittent, rather than consistently going away with warm up. Others correct me if I'm wrong, but when the UVHC is the problem the truck will run on 4 cylinders and shake horribly, with little to no power.

Thanks for the recommendations, I was looking at:
$970 for reman injectors
Mylex International Inc.
123 Nozzle Recon Dr.
1-800-553-1821

My truck feels like it is running on 4 cylinders...
 

This 2000 F250 is not as strong running as my 2002 F250, and it feels sluggish even after it warms up. I have to change the glow plugs, so I am going to look at and fix these other things while I am under the valve covers, and the SES light is always coming on and stays on.

For the small price difference I would go with any of the builders I listed, they are well known and have great reputations.

Slightly more for Full Force rebuilds from Clay who is a forum sponsor.

Slightly less for Rosewood from Jim who is a sponsor as well. Rosewood Diesel Shop

Thanks for the advice. I ordered the 1st ones I checked, Full Force remanufactured, 18 month warranty. Sounds like they have both a good price and good customer service.