Thanks that's a great help. I do have a question about checking the circuits with a ohms meter. My truck is experiencing this problem intermittently does the truck actually have to be missing to get the negative ohm readings? Or will it show up because the connection is loose?

If the plug is just a little loose and it runs bad sometimes and runs good other times, then you need to check it when it's running bad. If it's running good, the connection is good enough to give you good ohm readings.

That's what I figured. Guess I will just take a stab at one side and then the other. Thanks

Ok, first of all, thanks for all the great info already in this thread. I have a 99 F350 7.3, having the same problem initially described in this thread. It was running fine, suddenly started running extremely rough, no power, and "service engine soon" light came on and stayed on. I did the ohm check described earlier, and the only one that failed was the rearmost injector on the passenger side. But when I pulled the valve cover off, all the connections looked fine, the internal harness connector was fully seated, no evidence of burning or melting, all the wires look good. So what I'm wondering is, could it be that the injector is bad and not the wiring harness? Should I just replace the wiring harness anyway while I've got it apart?

Thanks in advance for the help.

UCVH
 

I did the UVCH fix yesterday on both sides. My truck would run bad, I would turn it off and it would run fine again. Service engine light would come on. I could not do the ohms test because my truck was running fine most of the time.

I pulled the drivers side first. The plug was seperated on one side by 3/16". I used the Ford shims instead of the quarter. I pulled the passenger side and it to was starting to seperate by about the same amount. I could actually hear it click into place when I pushed on it. It got the Ford shim too.

I removed the Dog house on the drivers side to get to the valve cover bolt easier... I should have just used a open end wrench. Once you remove the Dog House you can not reuse the rubber O rings. So I have to go to Ford and pick up a set. I guess any O ring would work.

The passenger side looked overwhelming with all the crap in the way but once you get the duct out of the way you see things start to open up. I used a 3" extention and swivel plus a box end wrench to get the hard to get to bolts out. I did not remove the AC pump the valve cover came right out without much problem..

I found a good Youtube video that may help. Guy looks like a Ford Tech. I wish I had watched it before I removed the Dog House... Being a Ford Tech he used the Quarter Mod instead of the shim?

I thought the point about the temp for diagnosing which side is bad was pretty cool.7.3 Diesel Powerstroke misfire runs rough code P1316 injector wire harness connection - YouTube

I went ahead and replaced the uvc wiring harness, but it didn't fix the problem. I'm pretty sure that the issue is on the passenger side because as it was running rough I unplugged the connector to each side, and when I unplugged the passenger side it didn't change. When I unplugged the drivers side the engine died. I take this to mean that the issue is on the passenger side. But I'm not sure what else to look for at this point, so any suggestions would be great. I checked resistance on all the pins again and they all had good readings. How do I tell if the problem is with one (or more) of the injectors? Or maybe the IDM?

Okay, in looking around on youtube I found a video of what a good and bad injector looks like when running, I looked at mine and only the #3 is spitting oil like it should. #1, 5, and 7 there is no oil coming out at all. Is it possible that all three are bad or is there another likely problem?

What were the ohm readings you got? Yes it is possible a bad injector causes the IDM to shut down the entire bank. If one injector reading was out of spec, try unplugging both batteries for a while to clear the codes. Unplug the one suspect injector and then start the truck. You'll still get a CEL, but if the truck starts running on 7 cylinders instead of only 4, you've found the problem. Running on 7 cylinders will seem like a very slight miss compared to what you're experiencing with half the engine not running.

I really hate to ask this question.but what is ''IDM"
sorry but I think I need to know and I don't;(

Injector Drive Module it's what "drives" the injectors, electrically.

Thanks, I needed that, and again
I hope you don't mind dumb questions....

When I initially did the ohm check, the rearmost injector read about 6 ohms, the other 3 read in the 3.2 to 3.4 range. After replacing the uvc harness, all four read in the good 3.2 to 3.4 range, but it is still running just as rough. I ran it for a minute with the valve cover off so I could see the injectors, and like I said in my second post, only the #3 injector is spitting oil like it should. The other three have nothing coming out, so really it looks like it's only running on 5 cylinders right now. I will try unplugging both batteries when I get home tonight, but should I be looking at the IDM or at the injectors themselves? Thanks for the help.

I know it's been a couple days, but I got busy with other stuff and haven't had much time to work on the truck. I left the batteries disconnected for a couple hours last night, and when I reconnected everything and went to try and start it up, **** just went haywire. All of the lights and bells were flashing and buzzing and cutting on and off rapidly. When I turn the key to on to warm up the glow plugs this goes on for about 20 seconds, then settles down and things seems to work normally. But when I go to start, as the engine is turning over I hear the electrical system clicking rapidly and see every light on the dash blinking on and off. And of course it won't actually start. So now I'm thinking I have a short somewhere in the electrical system, but I don't even know where to start looking.

If I need to move this to a different thread now just say the word, but the original problem still remains.

Double check your battery connections. Sounds like something is loose or too corroded.

Let me jump in here(if you don't mind) there has been 2 of you that sez not to use auto-lite gp's, what would you reccomend?
I have seen an add for the "ACCURATE DIESEL" brand, would any of you know if they are the best or what. If not what brand would you reccomend?
tnx

Motorcraft ZD-11 which i believe are BERU

Riffraff Diesel: Motorcraft Glowplugs

The reason for not using the autolites is there are reports of the tips swelling and breaking off falling into the cylinder.

Thank you very much:)

Thanks F-350-6
 

I didn't have any issues with a miss, but....
I was installing HPX, FRx, fuel pressure relief rebuild, plenum inserts, CCV Mod, "Hutch" & "Harpoon" mods, pre-pump filter, Oil cooler rebuild, new water pump.
So I had everything torn down to the point that it was easy enough to pull the valve covers.
Drivers side Ohm ed out the injectors & glow plugs and they were within specs.

Torqued down the rocker arms they were tight already. The injectors, all I can say is WOW I got about a one and a half turns on each.
Added the snipped off quarter to the connector before I buttoned it up.

I'll do the passenger side tomorrow. Looks as if it may be easy enough to unbolt the entire AC mount to gain the additional room to work on the valve cover.

Thanks F-350-6 I never would have thought that the injectors would be so loose.

I was able to get my passenger side valve cover off without removing the AC pump or bracket. It really came right out in about 15 seconds. Try it first before you remove the AC you may save yourself some time.

Thanks for the feed back.
Most everything is off the front of the motor already, fan, water pump, radiator, intercooler. I'm going to be installing the Fuel Rail Crossover at the same time and removing the AC and bracket will make that chore so much easier.

Okay, I had to go away for a while but now I'm back and back to trying to diagnose my problem. I think you were right about the connections, I cleaned them all and it's cranking normally. The problem is that's all it's doing, it will turn over but won't start. I'm not sure what to do about this, at least before I could get it to start and run rough, now it won't even do that.

I did the ohm test from the wiring harness at the IDM and everything checked out as it should, I followed the procedures here:
http://www.gbreman.com/docs/techbull...eplacement.pdf
On test 1, everything read 3.1-3.2 ohms. On tests 2 and 3 everything was open. If I'm reading the tech bulletin correctly, that tells me that all my wiring and the injector solenoids are all good. But is it still possible that one or more injectors are bad? Or is the IDM more likely at this point?

Thanks in advance...

Well thanks for the info here, pickup has had an internment miss and was finally able to catch it while acting up. Loose connection drivers side valve cover easy and quick repair and not even worried when acted up since I read this before it did. Great info on here.

Great thread here with ton of info. and support.

I haven't read though if one can experience this loss of power and "missing" without having the SES light ever come on?

I have a 2003 EX with 7.3 and it just doesn't feel like it is running right. I have noticed and a couple of my buddies have commented that it sounds like it is missing. Also doesn't seem to have the power and/or acceleration that it should. I called a shop today and described the problem to them and they told me that being a 2003 it is due to have the UVCH's replaced. Gave me a starting estimate of $620.

Thanks to everyone here, I will test it myself and if indicated I will attempt the repair myself as well. Couldn't/wouldn't attempt without you all on this forum!! :-drink

Thanks,
Tom

The way I tested mine was to get my lovely wifey to sit in the truck with it running, I unplugged the drivers side plug first, it ran the same.. unplugged the pass side, stalled right away.

Drivers took me only a couple hours, never tacked the pass side yet but will before spring.

If you decide to test it the way I did, be careful, I loosened the plugs and used a wooden extension to "pull" it out of the plug since I wasnt sure how much current was going through there and had the wifey shut it off while I replugged that side in and prepared to test the other side before restarting.

A local ford dealer can test things for you too. I went into mine and paid $100 to get it hooked up and they were able to test fuel pressure, numerous other checks on the motor/injectors and provided me with a printout of their findings.

Are you loosing any power due to leaky up pipes or manifolds?

I am going to be replacing my up pipes and also removing my manifolds to either grind down or add a gasket as I am still loosing power due to this now.

Good info as usual........I will check some of those other possibilities.

Did you have the SES light on when you were having issues?

My light only came on when it was working really bad.. Mine seemed to be at 80% power all the time, but at other times its like it lost contact for a few minutes on that side and felt like I was driving a 8 cyl engine with 4 plug wires missing.

2001 7.3L F350, Service Engine Soon, truck shakes
 

Chris,

I am new to this forum and I am experiencing the same symptoms that you describe on this thread. I am very interested in your quarter method, but have one question - are you not worried that it will become dislodged somehow and all of a sudden it will be bouncing around in the cylinder head?

Once again, thanks for the pictures and information - this is great.

BTW, I am in Keller, TX and I travel down I35 south to the Hill Country quite often. Us Texans have to stick together!

Thanks,

Russ

Welcome to the forum Russ.

No way for the quarter to come loose. its surrounded by plastic and by the valve pan itself.

I recently did my second side, and decided to check my other side again since I was this far into it. The other quarter was as tight as the day it was put in.

There is a thread on here where the 50 cent mod failed according the poster. The quarter was just gone. There is no explanation for it. I used the Ford OEM plastic wedges..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...od-failed.html

Read that thread, but I dont see anyway possible it moved unless his bottom clip was broken or cracked....?

Welcome to the Forum Russ. If you have any doubts, play with it a little before you button it back up. If you don't like the quarter, don't leave it in there.

The quarter slides down inside the connector. It cannot slide out the bottom because the bottom is closed up. It cannot slide out the sides due to the shape of the connector compared to the size of the quarter. The only two ways for it to come out is from the top where you slide it in, but once you put the valve cover back on, that part is taken care of. The only other way I know the quarter can come out is if the plastic connector breaks. And the most likely way to break the connector is when you're messing with it. If you don't break it, you should be fine.

I've had my quarters in for over 100,000 miles and have put them in a few other trucks with no issues. If you don't like the idea, Ford does sell plastic shims that do the same thing (they don't come out either)

Pics please
 

Chris,

Do you or anyone else have some pictures of the wiring piece that we are suppose to check the ohms on the outside of the valve covers to see if the it is on the driver side or passenger side? I am going to test mine tomorrow and want to make sure that I test the right thing before I take the covers.

Thanks,

Russ

I just unplugged each side on mine til I found out what was bad.

I unplugged the drivers - started fine.. replugged it back in, unplugged the pass side, stalled right away.

Ripped open the drivers side and repaired.

Thanks PEI - I guess what I am asking is what wires are we talking about? I assume that they are above the valve covers, right? Please advise.

Thanks

Russ

If your testing them to find which connector is bad. You could have the valve cover off almost before you get them tested and you will still have to remove the valve cover. Drivers side is a little easier but once you get the intercooler tubing out of the way the passenger side is not bad.

Hi Russ,

Yes, its the plugin directly above the valve cover.. I loosed the clip on mine, had wifey start the truck and unplugged it, then shut the truck off, plugged the first in tight and did the other side.

1L243 - I mean the main UVC connector, not the seperate injector wires. This unplugs the whole bank. Easy way to see if you have a VERY loose or off UVC connector before you pull the cover off.

Advice: Make sure you check for boost leaks afterwards. Wouldnt hurt to spray the inside of the boots when you put them back on with hairspray or spray adhesive. (I used the spray adhesive) and made the $3. boost detector.

There's one flat connector on the inboard, center of each valve cover. Here's the outside connector with a red arrow, and the inside connector with a blue arrow. The valve cover sits on the rubber gasket between these two connectors.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...248361.520.390

Here's what the outside connector looks like when unplugged (thanks to Greg for these pics)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1301680625


The flat pins on the top portion of the picture show the pass thru connector that you will be checking with your ohm meter. The lower half of this picture shows what the connector itself looks like.

rough running, shakes, etc.
 

2002 F350 w/7.3, running really rough, but runs. Shakes like a bad road, and a slight acceleration (barely touching the pedal) is the time is is the worst.

Didn't take of the valve covers yet, but did crawl up there on a piece of plywood and remove the plugs from the valve covers and used an ohm meter to get the readings that were posted, oh, about 14 pages ago or so.

Driver side:
front to back, 9 pins
g___g___ i ___ i ___ c___ i ___ i ___ g___ g
3.__ 3._ .6 ___.6___n/a__1.___0____0___ 3.6

Pass. Side:
Front to back, 9 pins
g___g___i____i____c____i_____i____g____g
3.__3.___.6__.6___n/a__0____0____0____0

So it looks like 3 injectors and 3 glow plugs test outside range.
All at the same end of the connectors (towards firewall).

I got the above readings by laying on plywood above the motor, just taking the 2 connectors off. Did not have to remove any other component or hose or hose clamp.

Now I will take the valve covers off and check inside, as was recommended. If glow plugs or injectors are still registering bad, then I guess I need to change those while I'm in there.

Can anybody recommend a video or tutorial for changing the injectors or glow plugs, things to watch out for, and what component brands to get?

Autozone, Advanced Auto, OReilly's, and Napa are all pretty close.

FIXED--new style ford connector + different quarter method
 

OK, both sides are fixed now, everything reads right on an ohm meter and it it running smooth, starting easier too. This is what I did:

Driver's side was fixed using quarter ground as previously recommended. First attached picture is the 2 quarters, ground for the fix, next to a 6" scale so you can see the size:

My passenger side UVCH connector was broken, so I needed a new under-valve-cover-harness. The new Ford harness is different than original design (see 2nd picture for part number on box). To solve the latch problem, they added a post under each side of the latch. This reduced the unsupported length of the latch.

The original quarter-fix now won't work, because a quarter will not go in all the way--it hits the new post supports.


You can trust the new support posts to fix the problem and leave the quarter out, if you wish to. I'm a belt-and-suspenders-where-possible kind of guy so I modified the quarter some more so it will fit in with the new connector.
The 3rd attached picture shows a quarter with 2 notches added to fit between the new support posts.


Last picture is of the modified quarter being test-fit into the new-style harness connector. If you look close, you can see how it fits in between the posts.


All is well and it runs really smooth now, no more shake and the P1316 engine error code is no longer there!

A Big Thanks to all the people who posted solutions I could follow!

Help
 

OK so my truck started to do the shake of death when i was driving it home one night. next day worked fine then did it again. So after reading the 1st 5 pages of this post did the quarter trick on both sides.. No more rock of death. :-jammin then a few nights ago when pulling around 5k i felt something funny and then it felt like it was not going to shift, then hard shift, then loss of power.. no rock of death just can not get over 45-50mph. if i shut off the truck and let it sit then start it up we are back to normal. I have also noticed that it is not doing this unless its 100+ outside or i have been driving for over 50mins.

Also it is throwing a check engine light that no one so far can read but it is not giving it most of the time.

If anyone can help me im in need of it. This is my work truck and i am having to get my workers to come get me in the morning..:'(

My buddy's truck was doing the same exact thing. I had AE hooked up and couldn't find the problem for the life of me. Then about an hour into it I asked him when was the last time he changed the oil. He said he was due for a change. Problem solved.

Btw Welcome to FTE!