Welcome to FTE.

Has anyone had the service engine light come back on after this fix ??? my truck ran great for about 2 weeks then one morning it would not start. when it finally did start the service engine soon light was back on. It ideled badly then the light went out and it smoothed out then came back on then went out and did not come back on. could it have a shorted under cover harness ??? And if so how do you replace it. Help anyone know???

You really need to hook it up to a scanner that will pull Ford enhanced codes to know what the problem is.

Well I could not locate a scanner excypt at Ford and thay want 100.00 to scan it. to bad i was not born rich LOL SOOO i took the tester and checked both sides again. And i found that the right side had no readings for the Injectors yet the Glo-plugs read fine. To make a long story short, i took that side apart again. Everything looked good the coin had not moved at all. But the plugs litle locking tabs were not hooked all the way. so the coin just moved with the plug. I wounder why ford did not put retainer clips on the inside of the valve cover,yet thay put them on the outside plug. Anyway this time i made sure the little locking tabs were up on the little cross piece and not still under it. Hope this works. Also iam getting very good at this.LOL P.S. The little plastic clip on the outside valve cover plug does not fit the inside plug its slighty to short. Hope this helps some one.Thanks for a great site. Will subscribe when i can. Butch Rankin

The Retainer clips cost $5.00 Each, from Ford. 3 Clips to a package,one is a spare.

thanks for the info. My truck is running fine at this time. It all started a couple of weeks ago on a pretty cold morning when i switched it on for the glow plugs to activate .... while waiting I could hear a humming/electrical noise coming from under the hood. I never had heard this before, so I saaid "oh well" and started her up.

She started up fine and purred like a kitten for about 10 secounds, and then it goes into this horrible radical miss like its starving for fuel ... this lasted a long 5 seconds with the service engine soon light on. After this horrible 5 seconds, the engine smooths back to a normal idle with no service engine light. Its done this radical shake/miss twice since then without the humming/electrical noise coming from under the hood.
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Early 1999 F250 CC 4X4 SB ( Bone Stock Engine ) 215,000 mi

..... my problem was the driver side
harness (partially separated & burned)
Due to a RV trip I had planned this week ... i had a reputable
diesel shop do the work. After reading some of the post, I told
them to do a lil extra work like replacing the harness on the other side also.
Also glow plugs. They told me it really wasn’t necessary but ?? (see below)

Two - Seal Ring PVC ----???-------------- 5.60
Two - Valve Cover Gasket ---------------- 172.90
Two - Wire Assembly ---------------------- 188.60
Eight -- Motorcraft Glow Plugs --------- 0.00 ( mine )

Six - Hours Labor @ $70 per hour = 420.00

TOTAL $787

Im broke but it seem to crank better.

$800 is worth it after you've pushed these trucks to the side of the road.

I seem to be having the same issues with my 02 F350 7.3 PSD. Engine light comes on intermittently; when the light is on the truck runs rough, as an earlier post stated "like driving on a (bad) road"; lack of power as well.

This all seemed to start after the recall replacement of the CPS. Any coincidence? This has been an ongoing problem. We first discovered I needed new batteries. Shortly after that the alternator went out, then the idler/tensioner needed replacing. All of which when completed I had no light for awhile. Had a test done at the dealership (only because I was passing by when the light came on) and they didn't tell me the code, but said one of my injectors was bad. Following this thread, this seems to be a common response by dealerships.

Was the UVCH clip issue ever a recall? Seems as though Ford should do something if this is happening quite often. I don't have a reader and am a novice mechanic at best. Is this something I should attempt to tackle or should I try my mechanic? If both sides need repair, how many hours should it take a mechanic? How many hours (days) should it take me? I live in the Rocky Mountains and winter is in full force now, we've had over 160" of snow already. My full size truck won't fit in my garage, so I would be attempting this outdoors. Any help/advice would be

Idk if it was recalled but they made a part for the repair. ETSM was quoted 6 hrs on the repair. It doesn't seem that hard though.

Hi Seitz / Orng
Im sure some of that 6 hours was diagnostic which i think was unesessary because of this great forum. I think you could take it to any good "gasser" mechanic and tell them exactly what to do, you would save some bucks. You dont need a diesel tech to do this simple task. I dont think franchises like pep boys would touch a diesel but your mom & pop places probably would (i.e. removing 2 valve covers)

I know ... i could have done this myself. I'll tell ya, $787 would have almost made 2 truck payments back in 1999 :-) I just appreciate you guys for helping me diagnose the problem. The diesel shop was impressed with my knowledge of the situation.

The new glow plugs makes a "big" difference at start-up! My only concern is, he didn't change the glow plug relay .... Shouldn't I have a new glow plug relay with the new plugs?

thanks again
Merry Christmas
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Early 1999 F250 CC 4X4 SB ( Bone Stock Engine ) 215,000 mi

Unbelievable!!! Just picked my F350 up after having my mechanic do the UVCH retainer clip repair and re-torquing everything as noted in this thread. OMG!!! I don't remember my truck running this well!

My mechanic said the "quarter" retainer Chris noted would've been much easier than the Ford clips. He charged me 4 hours total labor to do both sides, of which he said at least a half hour or more of that was spent trying to get those Ford clips in place.

Anyway, after the repair he cleared the codes, test drove the truck and retested. Nothing! Na da! Everything looks and runs great!

A million props to everyone, especially Chris, for providing this information. Thanks again!

Hey, welcome to FTE and thanks for letting us know.

Cool, good to hear it went well. I'm about to do this to mine. If I can convince the sun to come out. It's cold outside for me. Probably in the 50s, I can imagine a lot of you guys would be outside in shorts and sandles.

Well worth either doing it yourself or having it done! Runs amazingly.

Orng1- 50 degrees? That's pool weather here in Steamboat this time of the year. It was below zero this morning. Up to a balmy 8 right now.

LOL I live in Long Beach, it's usually in the upper 60s or 70s around this time. It's been raining, you guys probably don't remember what rain is, it's snow when it's water.

with 2 psd's both 240k + I am definately going to have to do this soon.

Quarter trick! (kind of)
 

I love this site but am mostly a lurker. I bought a 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4, 150k a few years ago and love it. Put a 1.5" leveling kit on the front, 38" military tires and Bushwacker cutouts all around. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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This is the first year I had to smog it due to CA being over regulated on everything. Surprised when it didn't pass. Tech said it failed for not having a check engine light, codes P0677, P0675 and P1690. <o:p></o:p>
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So I drove home and immediately got on FTE. Found the P0677/P0675 were related to the glow plug and most likely the wire harness. Hooked up the ohm meter and found they were open. I pulled the passenger side valve cover (very easily by the way. expecting the driver's side to be cake.) and found the back half of the plug hanging out. Ohm'd the pins and found the glow plugs were fine. I'm too cheap for a quarter so I ground a washer and it holds beautifully. <o:p></o:p>
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So what do I look for on the waste gate control valve solenoid error code P1690? Check engine light is still on. Oh, and as far as the check engine light not working, the previous owner pulled the light socket out of it and the brake warning holes! Replaced it and now working fine, as in check engine light is still on. <o:p></o:p>
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Make sure the connector for the WG solenoid is plugged in. The solenoid is mounted to the front of spider and has a green connector.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD (Post 9881135)

Make sure the connector for the WG solenoid is plugged in. The solenoid is mounted to the front of spider and has a green connector.

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It is/was plugged in. I also had checked voltage to the harness key on/off and I have 11- on and 0 off. Any other tests for it? Can I put voltage to it and with a vacuum gauge test the ports or would it ruin it?<o:p></o:p>
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I did two fuses blown find after the smog test. One in cab for #3-cigar lighter/data link connector, and under hood #5-instrument panel aux. power point.<o:p></o:p>
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<o:p>Also, how long does it take for the Check engine light to go out or does it need to be cleared (battery disconnect)?</o:p>

I don't want to highjack so if this needs a new thread let me know. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
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I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?

I don't know how the valve in the solenoid is designed but it controls pressure, not vacuum, so using vacuum to test it might not be valid.

Edit: With KOEO after about 30 seconds my WG solenoid starts rapidly operating and releasing, and I have never gotten a WG solenoid code.

[quote=PaysonPSD;9881442]I don't know how the valve in the solenoid is designed but it controls pressure, not vacuum, so using vacuum to test it might not be valid.[quote]

The solenoid is just an electromagnet that opens or closes what ever it is connected to. Yes, the WGS runs on pressure. But using vacume I was able to confirm the electrical part of it is working and controlling the valve to open and close the pressure. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

I wasn't talking about how the solenoid operates but how the valve is designed. A valve that allows pressure to pass may close with a vacuum applied and vice versa. :confused:

Did you see my edit about the solenoid rapidly operating and releasing?

PCM pin #47 is for WG solenoid control. It is tied to pin #28 on the 42 way connector.

I see what you're saying now. And for the edit, I did see it but have to admit I don't know what "KOEO" is. So your solenoid is Obviously working. :)

So even though I have voltage with key on, I need to diagnose when it is getting the signal, or not? So the plug on the solenoid has a key on power. Is the other lead switched by the controller? And if it's not ever switching there may be my problem?

Sorry, KOEO means Key On Engine Off, which is simply key in run position.

With key in run position you have pwr on solenoid connector pin 1, so check for control ground on 2. I'm not fast enough to know if the solenoid operates as soon as the key is turned on but like I said, after about 30 seconds with KOEO the solenoid stars rapidly operating and releasing.

One thing that seems to happen often is the 42 way connector harness will chafe on the VC. Check the bottom of that harnes where it passes over the VC. If the solenoid control wire gets grounded the PCM will see it as a fault. I also once read where that harness rubbed through on the inboard side of the bracket.

Thanks, I'll have to wait until my next days off to take a look at the harness.

I have been having a similar issue. It has happened a couple times now.

Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.

Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.

Thanks,
Kevin

Sounds more like you have a cracked pick up tube inside the fuel tank. If it always happens when you get below 1/4 tank and never happens when above that level, keep the tank topped off until you have time to do the in tank mods.

Now that I have pulled the tank and installed an external fuel filter this whole UVCH thing sounds like my problem: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-warm-too.html So I am going to ohm it out and maybe get to pulling a valve cover today.

I have a similar problem but not sure if its the same?

Truck was random, but getting a lot worse now with the engine light on and sounding like its running on 4 cyl. It looses power bigtime and is stumbing along. I have a very limited tool collection right now so sorta weary about doing this myself but cant afford to pay a shop to do it :(

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...at-random.html

Ford service said they can run a diagonstics on it tuesday and takes about 45minutes ($70 hr) would they be able to tell what is happening with that test?

I was thinking about unplugging each side and trying to start, this wont harm anything? Or is it best to unplug each side one by one when its running? (with my light coming on at random and not always on, would I be able to tell or does the light need to be on and missing when I pull the plugs?)

Thanks,
Jason

It turned out the problem with mine was a bad #8 injector ground wire outside the valve cover. I was skeptical as I couldn't see how this could kill half the engine but a new pigtail was installed and it's working perfectly now!

The harness comes loose. That's where the 50¢ mod comes in.

Started unplugging the connectors on the valve covers and the pass side kept shutting the truck down, the drivers side made it sound pretty bad.. Pulled the drivers side pan and found the connector almost unplugged.

Plugged it back in and added a quarter to it. (I used a 2009 CANADIAN quarter.. will that work ok or does it need to be a USA one?:-X04)

Started back up and working great again.

I will do the other side sometime in the next few weeks.

Which side would everyone say is harder? Pass or drivers? (the rear valve pan bolt was a pain without a swivel socket)

Thanks for everyones help!!

Jason

PEI- It's harder to limp the truck home than it is to do the .50 mod. Both sides are not difficult.

better than the 1100 dollar ford quote and the 20 dollar ford shims.
installed 2 quarters and it FIXT IT!!
at 256,000 miles runs great!!!

yet another.....maybe?
 

well first off i am a novist, basic tools, and skills....so i read, and read, found this thread, and this seems to be my prob, as all symptoms fit! so i pulled the d side valve cover, and the plug is still conected, and i cant seem to push it in any further, so, now i went out and bought a muli meter 15$ craftsman, and checked the contector outside the v/c and either somthing is messed up, or im doing it wrong,, this is where i need some help, i followed test indtructions on pg 1 and the rear two injectors are reading about the same...22.6 and 23.1, now the front two injectors are 10.6 and 17.6. glow plugs are reading 0.00 on all! am i doing somthing wrong, or do i have a problem, and where do i go from here! my lowest setting on meter is 200 ohms and thats what im using. please help, and please tell me some good news.....lol!!!

Thanks to all

I would of bought an auto-ranging meter. That one will probably work though. The center pin is the common. One lead goes on the common and the other on the injector pin. Repeat for the other injectors. The glow plugs are the outter 2 pins front and back of the connector. Put one lead on the glow plug pins and the other on a good ground like the battery. If the readings are the same sounds like the plug came loose and you are getting opens on the glow plugs and poor connections on the injectors.

What is the part number for the Ford shim kit?

Here ya go.

DTS Articles - 7.3L UVC Harness Retainer Clips