I didn't pull the passenger side. The pass thru connectors looked fine.

Did pull the drivers side. Everything looked good and checked out good.

Just parked it and it is running fine. I found a site that has a pretty good deal on the new harness and gaskets. I may go ahead and replace them and be done with it.

That's what I had to do.
Mine were fried from the glow plug wire shorting against the push rod.
It burned the pass through connection to a crisp.

Bumping this one up. What a great thread.

Thought I would subcribe and maybe look at doing the 50 cent mod and tightening everything down sometime this summer.

At 270k, Ill bet my baby is a bit loose here and there.

I bought and installed the new harnesses. It has run great since then. Bought them from my local IH dealer for $280 - installed in about 6-7 hours - I am not fast - re-torqued everything.

It is running great. :-)

Now I have similar symptoms, but some differences as .well.
My engine runs smoothly when cold for few miles, or when under light load. But when driven for some time and under heavy load, like going on steep grade the "service engine soon" light comes on and on some occasions the engine is loosing about 20% of the power. That all goes away once I start driving downhill.
I went to AAAmco for scanning and there are no codes, even I had the light just few miles earlier. The dealer want like $300 and keep the truck for whole day to find the problem.
For me the engine is having all symptoms of clogged fuel filter, but I just put new filter and it didn't change anything. Also why it has no problem when it is colder? Have been driving with it for 700 miles and it is very intermittent.

Sounds kind of like you've got a fuel restriction. Most common issue (as long as you've been changing the filter properly) is plugged screens in the mixing chamber inside the tank. Here's another thread that had this problem https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-when-hot.html

I drove the truck 500 miles today and it really sucks to crawl the famous Grapevine Grade at 15 mph, when you know you should fly at 55.
So my problem is somehow heat related. For few miles after morning start the engine runs perfectly and even if the light comes on it doesn't affect the performance.
However when the engine gets warm that's when the problems start and the light is not coming at all.
Best description I've got is observing turbo boost gauge.
When I keep boost below 5 psi, what gives my flatbed about 55 mph, I can drive on flat with no problem. But when I have to push the gas, the boost goes up to 10 or more psi and for few seconds engine works like it suppose to, than the boost start surging and lower to 5 psi or even less. More I push, slower the truck go. If I have downgrade right after, the engine will recover. Also if I park the truck for like 20 minutes, the next few miles are flawless again
I eliminated tank vacuum and fuel filter. Will start digging more tomorrow.
It has to be either fuel, or turbo, right? But why everything works fine the next morning? For some time at least.

Thanks for the advice and link to the other thread F350-6
Sounds like it was the right advice and I posted picture in the other thread.
What still p.. me off is that I have a truck with OBD II plug, that doesn't talk with OBD II scanners. I have a car computer, but the darn thing can't even remember the code for few minutes. So with all that technology we still have to fix the truck by word of mouth.

Your scanner can pick up a few very basic codes, but the 7.3 engine was designed by International as a medium duty truck engine, so it is therefore exempt from meeting OBDII compliance. There are a few scanners out there can can read all the codes for these motors, but they tend to be much more expensive than the generic code readers you can get at the auto parts stores.

Don't feel too bad about relying on FTE for your info. You've got the benefit of many 7.3 owners who have seen, read about, or experienced just about every problem that can come up with these motors. Look at the bright side, you could have taken it to a mechanic who would have likely charged you to replace the entire pick up assembly when all you needed was to clean the screens.


There's a reason the in tank mods are popular, and not all of it has to do with the air in the lines. There's lots of good info available on here for free. Spend some more time haning around, and you'll be surprised on how much you learn.:-X25

HECK. That would be the easy out. When I stopped at Dealership in Escondido, CA they wanted to start with $300 for testing and keep the truck for whole day.
Thanks again,.

Thanks for the info and thanks for the invitation, but although my truck has over 200k on it, in my 3 years of ownership I drove it for about 6000 miles.
Drive Mercedes most of the time and even the Mercedes is older than the Ford, it not only gives you lot of info via the scanner, but also using clima display I can access all the sensors readouts while driving. Priceless for troubleshooting sophisticated AC system or other stuff.
Ford on other hand was catching the fire while parked for weeks.
The dump bed, 1200lb lift gate and 8000 top mounted winch are priceless for occasional HD jobs, but hardly pleasure to drive.

One thing many people do not realize is that there is a difference between OBD-II compliance, and the electrical interface that most people call "OBD-II".

One does not necessarily mean the other ;)

I am back.
Drove the truck today again (you can tell I don't do it very often) and I still have slight problem.
The truck performs on freeway, but few times on acceleration from the stop the engine would stop responding to the throttle and one time I had the famous light coming up.
For some reason it usually happens when I engage 4-th gear.
It is not a big deal. I just let it idle for 2-3 seconds and than it will continue, but it gets really annoying not being able to troubleshoot the fault.
There is still possibility that I have bad harness under valve cover, but I strongly believe that at 200k PO took care about it and than the problem is very intermediate on last 1500 miles driven. Any idea how can I get a code that appears only for 1 second?

Go pay a dealer or independent diesel mechanic to pull the codes for you. Even if the light just comes on for a couple of seconds, there will be a code stored in the PCM. The light does not need to be on for them to see the code.

Dealer wants $300 for reading the codes. I used AAAmco and few minutes after the light went off there was no code stored.

There's a good chance AAmco's scanner won't see the diesel engine codes. They've probably got a generic type scanner geared for standard OBDII & tranny codes. If the light came on, there will be some code stored there, even if it's just a P0603.

P1316 p0677
 

Got thesse codes last week about had a heart atack when i found out what they were had just take the ex to the dealer for the cps recall on friday and on monday it kicked out p0677 bad glow plug first thought was they f*&^*d up something at the dealer was runnnig great before the trip there cleared the code wife drove 1day and bam p0677,p1316 found this great web site and ordered the updated clips bam no more problems for know all i can say is you guys great keep up the good work will be a supporter soon as i go back to work thanks again:-x25

Welcome! This is the best site for sure, hang around and you'll see what I mean! I'm glad you got her fixxed by the way.


:-X25:-drink:-X25:-drink:-X25

wow this is a real cool site.. I have a 02 7.3 and it was running fine and then started to run rough at times just out of no where. Then was getting worse over a few weeks and the light is on
I had it checked at auto zone and thier reader says p1670 po672 and p0198 and i think it said 1316 also.
SO i replaced the camshaft sensor there in the parking lot.That sucked have to hold your mouth just right and no room under truck its a 2 wheel drive.Took 2 hourse.lol hard to pull it out. Well that didnt fix anything. So I stopped by a repair place and they out it on a snap on tools tester and it said left bank sometihng. So we looked and saw that the wires that go into the eot sensor were melted and touching the engine. So he taped them up and plugged it back in and then the truck ran normal sort of. Then retested and said everything was fine and also tested the injectors and they were fin as well.
But then the next day the truck would start real rough and felt like running on 5 cyclinders or something. Would run run real rough like timing was way off... So i bought new eot sensor and put it in and didnt fix any thing. still rough. Then the next day it wouldnt start at all. tried till the batteries went dead. So i replace the batteries plugged my engine into the house and waited a few hours and it started. But still is running rough. All fuses are ok. The connection is ok that we taped up. Would like to replace that connector with a new one but cant find one anywhere. I checked the wiring harness outside the valve covers but have not checked the under valve cover conn yet.
And went back to autozone for the free rip off buy all our parts tester nad still got those same test results even the eot sensor p0198.

FTE to the rescue AGAIN! This forum is with out doubt, the best resource a PSD owner could have in his/her arsenal. Back in November '08 I had this problem but didn't know how or where to look for the problem. Threw my baby on a roll-back and to the dealership we went. $2000+ later, she was back on the road... Fast forward to Wednesday afternoon.... As I'm approaching the driveway after work, she's starts acting up again. This, time, I'm a lot smarter (thanks to this forum)! Since the problem was on the passenger side last time, I pulled the drivers side valve cover and BAM! There it was! I grabbed a quarter, ground it down and presto! This time, it only cost about 90 minutes of my time and $0.25! Thanks a bunch Fellas!

Glad you were able to fix it yourself this time. You saved $1,999.75 doing it yourself. Now might be a good time to become a SUPPORTER. :-X03

hey guys im having the same problem with the truck shaking and running on which sounds like only half the motor. i ohmed the drivers side and pulled the cover just to be safe and everything was still connected and tight. i ohmed the passenger side and got 0.5 on all the glow plugs except for the last pin closest to the front of the motor which read nothing. i would just like some of your guys advice cause this site has helped me more than enough times. thanks katie

I think I may be having this same problem. I left my house this morning for a 70+- mile trip to Baton Rouge. I made it about 3 miles and my truck started running really rough and sort of bucking as I was going through a stop sign. No SES light (or any other idicator) I immediately headed back home with no problems at 35-45 mph. but when I slow down for turns or in my neighborhood it runs really rough again.

First I changed the fuel filter (had about 15000 miles on the old one) it looked fine. Then I headed to the local dealership to get the CPS they've been hounding me to get. The truck actually died when I pulled into the service line but started right back up. Two hours later the head of the service department tells me my truck's ready so I get excited and start walking toward the cashier to get my keys. As I'm walking out the manager matter-of-factly says, "oh yeah, that didn't fix your problem." (thanks for nothing).

I let the truck run in the driveway for about 10 minutes and listened to it. It sounds like its loping really bad and at some points like its only hitting on half the cylinders. Like a cha cha cha cha sound instead of the constant pur (more of a growl with the diesel).

I just wanted to know if this sounded like the same problem before I grind down two quarters and buy a multimeter.

2003 2WD 87,000 miles only mod so far is the 6637 filter

What were the readings on your passenger side injector wires Katie? If you leave the connector on the passenger side unplugged and start the truck, does it change anything or does it run the same? If it runs the same with the plug disconnected, you need to pull the passenger valve cover.

You can get a multi-meter pretty cheap. I'd buy one and ohm the wires. Maybe check with a neighbor and see if you can borrow one.

Thanks F-350-6. I'm gonna get a multimeter tomorrow and check it out. If this is my problem I'll probably tackle the fix on Sunday. Is there a step-by-step guide for this fix? Not necessarily this task specifically but just one on removing the valve covers.

Also, I've seen a few ppl mention re-tightening everything while they're in there. I don't have/ have access to a torque wrench can I just snug them up with a regular socket driver? Thanks in advance.

I would check with your local parts store and see if they have one of those tool loaner programs. If you choose to tighten things up without a torque wrench, make sure you do it with a small 1/4" drive ratchet so you don't accidentally break one of the injector hold down bolts.

That's a GREAT idea. I'm gonna check into that tomorrow.

the readings for my injectors were 2.9 on both. and when i disconnected it and started the truck it ran like crap and was louder than sin. then i plugged it back in and the truck ran smooth. i took it for a test drive it ran good for about 5 to 10 minutes then it sounded like it backfired with 2 loud pops and then ran like garbage again.

What do you mean they were 2.9 on both? There are 4 injector pins on the passenger side. Did you check all 4 of them against the center pin?

If unplugging the connector made it run worse than it has before, then that means it's not the entire bank that's shut down. Do you have a CEL (check engine light) associated with it running rough?

i meant i checked them both on each sides of the center pin. yes i have a CEL light on it usually always comes on when i hit 45mph and let off the pedal. i just changed the cps also.

What part of the country do you live in? Sure would be nice to know what codes your engine is throwing to know where to go from here. Maybe a fellow member has a good scanner and live close enough they will vounteer to read the codes for you.

i live in trevor wisconsin which is close to the IL border. hope i can figure this out for cheap cause my pockets are pretty much empty. thanks again

ok hey guys..today was one of those days that was good and bad all at the same time. on my girls truck a.k.a. (2000PSD BlackThunder) we checked over a few things and decided to try and change out the sensor on the back of the high pressure oil resivior, we believe its called the IPR sensor. the truck ran awesome for a good 30-40 mins and then all of a sudden when she hit above 45mph the truck started running like crap, boggin down and seeming like it was stuggling to keep going, and once she got below 45mph the seemed to straighten out itself. could this be at all an issue with the hpop or some small stupid sensor lol?

thanks a bunch

Problem solved
 

I had the wiring harness issue on my 99 7.3 Today I fixed the drivers side using the quarter method and now it runs like a charm. I have the receipt from when the dealer replaced the passenger side a couple of years ago. It cost me $560 then..... ouch.

quarter shim
 

What keeps the quarter from vibrating loose? Or isnt that possible?
I would assume if that quarter comes free its not going to be pretty :)
Can you RTV the quarter in place? or am i just worrying about nothing?
I have the dreaded 1316 code and i'll assume its the harness coming free..will see

The quarter drops down inside the plastic tabs. The width of the quarter keep it from sliding out the bottom or the sides. The edge that is trimmed off is to clear the valve cover. The only way the quarter can come out is either the valve cover has to be removed so the quarter can be slid up and out, or the plastic tab has to break.

No harm in adding some RTV to the mix if you've got time to wait for it to dry. You can also fabricate a shim out of plastic or some other material you are more comfortable with. The quarter just happens to have the right dimensions.

Thanks all
my pass side was loose and the quarter trick worked like a champ!
I fell the pass side was easier to get too then the drivers side.
And trying to ohm out the pins is real treat :(
But she's back running like a top at 254,000 miles :)

Great news Joe! The .50 mod is worth it's weight in gold.

[quote=69crewcab;9299888]
And trying to ohm out the pins is real treat :(\



You are not joking there. The one grounded to the battery was not to bad but trying to hold yourself up on the engine and use both hands to touch the tip of the pins that you can barely even see and look at the meter at the same time was not fun. I got one measurement and it was off so I decided that it would be easier to open up the thing than get all the readings. Besides, I was pretty sure it was the harness problem. I guess having a code reader would be the best option.... maybe on my Christmas list...

Service Engine soon light Fix.
 

Boy talk about being right on target.I followed your instructions. From checking for the right valve cover to look under to fixing the loose plug.And your advice was dead on.:-X22 Now my truck a 2001 f-350 drw 4x4 runs great. You saved me $800 bucks Thanks You and this site are GREAT.:-X25