I would check with your local parts store and see if they have one of those tool loaner programs. If you choose to tighten things up without a torque wrench, make sure you do it with a small 1/4" drive ratchet so you don't accidentally break one of the injector hold down bolts.

That's a GREAT idea. I'm gonna check into that tomorrow.

the readings for my injectors were 2.9 on both. and when i disconnected it and started the truck it ran like crap and was louder than sin. then i plugged it back in and the truck ran smooth. i took it for a test drive it ran good for about 5 to 10 minutes then it sounded like it backfired with 2 loud pops and then ran like garbage again.

What do you mean they were 2.9 on both? There are 4 injector pins on the passenger side. Did you check all 4 of them against the center pin?

If unplugging the connector made it run worse than it has before, then that means it's not the entire bank that's shut down. Do you have a CEL (check engine light) associated with it running rough?

i meant i checked them both on each sides of the center pin. yes i have a CEL light on it usually always comes on when i hit 45mph and let off the pedal. i just changed the cps also.

What part of the country do you live in? Sure would be nice to know what codes your engine is throwing to know where to go from here. Maybe a fellow member has a good scanner and live close enough they will vounteer to read the codes for you.

i live in trevor wisconsin which is close to the IL border. hope i can figure this out for cheap cause my pockets are pretty much empty. thanks again

ok hey guys..today was one of those days that was good and bad all at the same time. on my girls truck a.k.a. (2000PSD BlackThunder) we checked over a few things and decided to try and change out the sensor on the back of the high pressure oil resivior, we believe its called the IPR sensor. the truck ran awesome for a good 30-40 mins and then all of a sudden when she hit above 45mph the truck started running like crap, boggin down and seeming like it was stuggling to keep going, and once she got below 45mph the seemed to straighten out itself. could this be at all an issue with the hpop or some small stupid sensor lol?

thanks a bunch

Problem solved
 

I had the wiring harness issue on my 99 7.3 Today I fixed the drivers side using the quarter method and now it runs like a charm. I have the receipt from when the dealer replaced the passenger side a couple of years ago. It cost me $560 then..... ouch.

quarter shim
 

What keeps the quarter from vibrating loose? Or isnt that possible?
I would assume if that quarter comes free its not going to be pretty :)
Can you RTV the quarter in place? or am i just worrying about nothing?
I have the dreaded 1316 code and i'll assume its the harness coming free..will see

The quarter drops down inside the plastic tabs. The width of the quarter keep it from sliding out the bottom or the sides. The edge that is trimmed off is to clear the valve cover. The only way the quarter can come out is either the valve cover has to be removed so the quarter can be slid up and out, or the plastic tab has to break.

No harm in adding some RTV to the mix if you've got time to wait for it to dry. You can also fabricate a shim out of plastic or some other material you are more comfortable with. The quarter just happens to have the right dimensions.

Thanks all
my pass side was loose and the quarter trick worked like a champ!
I fell the pass side was easier to get too then the drivers side.
And trying to ohm out the pins is real treat :(
But she's back running like a top at 254,000 miles :)

Great news Joe! The .50 mod is worth it's weight in gold.

[quote=69crewcab;9299888]
And trying to ohm out the pins is real treat :(\



You are not joking there. The one grounded to the battery was not to bad but trying to hold yourself up on the engine and use both hands to touch the tip of the pins that you can barely even see and look at the meter at the same time was not fun. I got one measurement and it was off so I decided that it would be easier to open up the thing than get all the readings. Besides, I was pretty sure it was the harness problem. I guess having a code reader would be the best option.... maybe on my Christmas list...

Service Engine soon light Fix.
 

Boy talk about being right on target.I followed your instructions. From checking for the right valve cover to look under to fixing the loose plug.And your advice was dead on.:-X22 Now my truck a 2001 f-350 drw 4x4 runs great. You saved me $800 bucks Thanks You and this site are GREAT.:-X25