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FWIW, I did have to re-do mine. Put in the Ford clip this time.....we'll see.
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Originally Posted by MeanGene427
(Post 7285769)
When the 7.3 was still fairly young, I had a company truck, a '95 F250, and had just bought my '97 F250 PS 4x4 (in 1998, it was a new "leftover"). The '95 started acting up intermittantly, and from working with conventional diesels for many years, was a familiar sound, was running very steadily on 4 cylinders- but rockin' and rollin'. On the dozers & such, changing filters or startup after a runout, lots of times a hand primer pump, or on the old dozers & such, a pony motor, no need to bleed all the cylinders, just get a couple to squirt, tighten 'em down, it'll start up and the rest will bleed themselves- so the sound was pretty familiar. The harness problem is pretty well known now, but back then... So the company mechanic, who was "tractor oriented" and also had an acute case of "mechanic's attitude", took one look and sent it to the dealer. Shop kid drives it up there (1/2 hr drive), shakes and rattle on 4 the whole way, parks it in the back lot. Of course when they pull it in, it's running perfectly :-huh So they change the filter, send it back, nothing wrong except bad maintenance is the verdict- which has the predictable effect on the "mechanic's attitude" :eek: So I get about 2 miles the next day and I'm driving a rabid Pinto again- so I start looking at it, and see the wiring harness going into the valve cover- remember, this is '98, and that's a bit "different"- so when I get home, do a little checking and find out about electrically controlled, hydraulically actuated injectors, go out and fire it up, whack the valve cover with a rubber hammer, Pinto turns into a Singer, smooth as silk. Back to the company mechanic, he's glaring at me as I walk towards him :mad: I ask him, did you tell them the symptoms, running evenly on 4, blah blah, "I told 'em it's running rough, they're the experts, let them figure it out" he barks. I deliver it myself this time (I've known the parts manager since I could still buy 427 parts new), they pull the cover- the plug wasn't loose, the harness had shorted and burned up inside the cover- at least 2/3 of it was a crispy critter, caked with burned oil
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Replacing harnesses
Do you have to change the valve cover gaskets when you change to the new harness?
I know the gaskets are reusable. Seems like I read somewhere that you have to use new gaskets with the new harnesses. |
Checked both sides - Ohm out good
Good afternoon guys - we are having a great weather day in central KY, hope you are where you live.
I checked both connectors and found no problem. Both were in the range that was mentioned earlier in the post. I started the truck afterwards and let it run until it was warmed up - no issue. I took it out for a spin down the road - no issue. I shut it off when I got back abd the P1316 is gone. I didn't do anything inentionally. I did take the drivers side off because I was having trouble reading that connector. Everything looked good under there. Didn't tear down the passenger side because it was a bear the last time I did it. While I am happy it seems to be running fine now, I am nervous it may show up when I am not close to home. I would sure like some assurance it won't pop up on the road somewhere. It does not run well at all when it does run bad. What do you guys think? I don't mind putting some money into it for peace and comfort, but I would rather not fish too. I would like to drive it on a trip to North and Central Texas in three weeks. It's a long ride from here - wouldn't want it to lay down on me somewhere. On a side note - I have a Superchips tuner that I bumped the truck up to tow safe about 4 years ago. Has anyone had any issue with the trucks that have bumped up the power? I don't pull anything, so I could take it back to stock, but it sure runs better in tow safe. Thanks for the tips. |
Did you just check the pass thru connector at the valve cover harness, of did you also check where the wires plug into each injector as Dan suggested? I somehow knocked one of the injector plugs loose on my wife's truck putting her valve covers back on. Did you inspect the pins on the pass thru connector to make sure none looked burnt or bent?
I'd carry an ohm meter around with me, and if the problem happens again, take the ohm readings while the problem is occurring. That will tell you which side or injector is having the issue. |
I didn't pull the passenger side. The pass thru connectors looked fine.
Did pull the drivers side. Everything looked good and checked out good. Just parked it and it is running fine. I found a site that has a pretty good deal on the new harness and gaskets. I may go ahead and replace them and be done with it. |
Originally Posted by cavenhedges
(Post 7294027)
I didn't pull the passenger side. The pass thru connectors looked fine.
Did pull the drivers side. Everything looked good and checked out good. Just parked it and it is running fine. I found a site that has a pretty good deal on the new harness and gaskets. I may go ahead and replace them and be done with it. Mine were fried from the glow plug wire shorting against the push rod. It burned the pass through connection to a crisp. |
Bumping this one up. What a great thread.
Thought I would subcribe and maybe look at doing the 50 cent mod and tightening everything down sometime this summer. At 270k, Ill bet my baby is a bit loose here and there. |
I bought and installed the new harnesses. It has run great since then. Bought them from my local IH dealer for $280 - installed in about 6-7 hours - I am not fast - re-torqued everything.
It is running great. :-) |
Now I have similar symptoms, but some differences as .well.
My engine runs smoothly when cold for few miles, or when under light load. But when driven for some time and under heavy load, like going on steep grade the "service engine soon" light comes on and on some occasions the engine is loosing about 20% of the power. That all goes away once I start driving downhill. I went to AAAmco for scanning and there are no codes, even I had the light just few miles earlier. The dealer want like $300 and keep the truck for whole day to find the problem. For me the engine is having all symptoms of clogged fuel filter, but I just put new filter and it didn't change anything. Also why it has no problem when it is colder? Have been driving with it for 700 miles and it is very intermittent. |
Sounds kind of like you've got a fuel restriction. Most common issue (as long as you've been changing the filter properly) is plugged screens in the mixing chamber inside the tank. Here's another thread that had this problem https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-when-hot.html
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I drove the truck 500 miles today and it really sucks to crawl the famous Grapevine Grade at 15 mph, when you know you should fly at 55.
So my problem is somehow heat related. For few miles after morning start the engine runs perfectly and even if the light comes on it doesn't affect the performance. However when the engine gets warm that's when the problems start and the light is not coming at all. Best description I've got is observing turbo boost gauge. When I keep boost below 5 psi, what gives my flatbed about 55 mph, I can drive on flat with no problem. But when I have to push the gas, the boost goes up to 10 or more psi and for few seconds engine works like it suppose to, than the boost start surging and lower to 5 psi or even less. More I push, slower the truck go. If I have downgrade right after, the engine will recover. Also if I park the truck for like 20 minutes, the next few miles are flawless again I eliminated tank vacuum and fuel filter. Will start digging more tomorrow. It has to be either fuel, or turbo, right? But why everything works fine the next morning? For some time at least. |
Thanks for the advice and link to the other thread F350-6
Sounds like it was the right advice and I posted picture in the other thread. What still p.. me off is that I have a truck with OBD II plug, that doesn't talk with OBD II scanners. I have a car computer, but the darn thing can't even remember the code for few minutes. So with all that technology we still have to fix the truck by word of mouth. |
Originally Posted by Kajtek1
(Post 7499118)
Thanks for the advice and link to the other thread F350-6
Sounds like it was the right advice and I posted picture in the other thread. What still p.. me off is that I have a truck with OBD II plug, that doesn't talk with OBD II scanners. I have a car computer, but the darn thing can't even remember the code for few minutes. So with all that technology we still have to fix the truck by word of mouth. Don't feel too bad about relying on FTE for your info. You've got the benefit of many 7.3 owners who have seen, read about, or experienced just about every problem that can come up with these motors. Look at the bright side, you could have taken it to a mechanic who would have likely charged you to replace the entire pick up assembly when all you needed was to clean the screens. There's a reason the in tank mods are popular, and not all of it has to do with the air in the lines. There's lots of good info available on here for free. Spend some more time haning around, and you'll be surprised on how much you learn.:-X25 |
Originally Posted by F350-6
(Post 7499241)
Look at the bright side, you could have taken it to a mechanic who would have likely charged you to replace the entire pick up assembly when all you needed was to clean the screens
Thanks again,. |
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