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Sorry VROD, I haven't taken off the valve covers at this point, so I'm not sure what that measurement is, though I'm curious what you'd want it for.
I'm starting to doubt my problem is the UVCH, so I'm starting a new thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14585477. If I find out it was the UVCH after all, I'll post back here. |
Originally Posted by VROD
(Post 14553001)
Hello can someone take a measurement from the end of the plug that loosens up to the valve cover gasket thanks
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Originally Posted by Tugly
(Post 14585592)
Uh? I have an old UVCH in my "box of shame". Do you need a measurement from that?
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My intermittent, but worse when hot problem turned out to be cylinder 6 injector wire shorting to valve cover where wires exit 42-pin connector and tend to rub against valve cover. IDM code was P0276. Details in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14586703.
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no resistance on injector
Hi! great thread! My engine started running rough, I check ohms like was suggested, I had no resistance on #3 on drivers side, so took apart, but my problem was the clip that holds the lead on the injector it self came lose, don't know how that happened, but it did. Put it back together and now purrs like a kitten! hope this helps someone else! Thanks guys!
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So I just pulled my drivers side valve cover tonight and my connection was loose so I did the 50 cent mod and put everything back together and cranked it up and everything was good except now my HPOP press gauge isn't reading anything at all?? Also it sounds like my afe intake now has more of a rumble to it alsmost like I can hear inside the motor from my air filter. I don't remember it sounding like this before. Any ideas?
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Maybe you missed the CCV hose... it's been known to happen (unless I'm the only one) :-roll
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How does your HPOP guage get it's reading?
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Originally Posted by F350-6
(Post 6884659)
Welcome to FTE Darren. Most of the generic (read inexpensive) code readers will not work on our engines. I'd be willing to guess if you could read the code that is in there it would be a P1316 code. The common cause for what you're describing is a loose plug on the UVCH (under valve cover harness)
Here's what the problem looks like http://home.comcast.net/~kwikkordead/crooked_plug.JPG Now the trick is to figure out which valve cover you need to remove to plug this thing back in. Since you don't have a good scanner that can run things like a buzz test, the next best option is to grab a multi-meter and set it to read ohms. Located on the inboard side of each valve cover you will see some wires leading to a plug connector. This is a flat 9 pin connector that you will need to unplug to expose the pins inside. The 9-pin plug is wired as follows: G G I I C I I G G G=Glow Plug + I = Injector + C= Injector Common The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test. Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms. To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms If you find readings outside these numbers, pull that valve cover and check for the loose connector. We also have a 7.3 diesel specific section located a little further down the main forum listing page. We'll see if we can't get your thread moved down there so you get more input on this from other folks that have the same motor. I apologize if this is already covered. I thank you all in advance and I thank all who contributed to this thread already. It has been a big help. Terran |
Originally Posted by TerranE
(Post 16691793)
Testing the injectors "I" and "C", I had a reading of around 7.2 on a couple of contacts. After tightening the inside connector, the reading was still 5.2 on one connector. Still not under 5 ohms. The other connectors had correct readings. Should I spend the quarter and put it back together or should I investigate it further?
I apologize if this is already covered. I thank you all in advance and I thank all who contributed to this thread already. It has been a big help. Terran Starting a new thread with all your specific symptoms and steps taken thus far would be even better. |
I have the same truck as the OP with pretty much the same symptoms. Service light, low power, stalls.
I think that you've pretty much provided most of the answers I needed already. I've tested the ohms at the under valve cover connections and have found them out of range. I've already sprung for new Ford gaskets, wire harnesses, Motorcraft glow plugs, along with o rings to do the crankcase vent mod. I think I have my bases covered, thanks to you. If I have any troubles, I'll start a new thread. Thank you. |
I have not posted here for a few years, but still my go-to for information -- thank you for the excellent details, particularly at the beginning of this thread, where I landed when I pulled my truck out of work this evening & light popped on, started stuttering & losing power & I worried I'd lost an injector or something. I will confer with my diesel guy tomorrow (NOT a dealer, a very very gifted neighbour; darn job keeps me too buried & exhausted to take things apart in the yard much anymore), but I am grateful to this thread for giving me hope that maybe it doesn't have to be a $$$$$ problem.
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02 F250 300k miles CEL w/ p1316, 0733
1 Attachment(s)
First of all, wanted to say thanks to all of the posters on this thread, helped me out immensely.
Truck had been doing just fine, just rolled past 300k, and then I go to crank it up last Friday morning and the CEL comes on. Running a little rough at idle but not really crazy, didn't feel like a whole bank was gone. It's my daily driver so I headed to work. CEL went away once during the drive and then came back on. We have a code puller at work, so I pulled the codes and found p1316 and p0733. Did some research that night, found this thread and the videos to be extremely helpful. Figured I'd pull the valve covers and see if the wiring harness was loose and do the .50 cent mod. Turns out the exterior wires going to the valve cover connector on the passenger side were corroded, all the shielding on the last inch before the wire meets the connector was flaked off. ohm'd the connector and had a couple bad readings, did the same thing on the driver side and readings were worse. Pulled the valve covers and both connectors were coming loose, pushed them back into the connectors and everything read good. Start to unplug the inner connecter and the tab breaks off on the passenger side. Decided to just swap the entire gasket and harness on both sides, b/c the gasket kit from Dorman came with a new connector. Spliced the new connector in on the passenger side, closed everything up, CEL went away, so we took it for a test drive. Wasn't able to build boost, so we started digging around for loose connections or something we forget to connect, turned out we broke the MAP sensor when we were pulling the valve cover, on the passenger side. Took another trip to the parts store, swapped out the MAP sensor and test drive was good. Will post a picture of the bad passenger side connector when I get home. Thanks again to everyone on the thread, it's been really helpful so far. Now it's on to replacing a u-joint tonight... |
Hey Cowboy
That's pretty good.............. Post includes I had this problem, did some research and found this thread which pretty much covered my problem, found one cause then another, created another, here's how I fixed them and thanks to all. Nice job :-drink |
Originally Posted by dahr85
(Post 6884198)
Hi All,
My truck starts just fine, but lately, as I get up to speed (around 40 mph) the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on and the truck begins to shudder and shake like driving on a bumpy road. I can tell that the truck immediately loses power also. Sometimes the light will go off after 30 seconds and the truck drives fine and I won't see the problem again for the remainder of the driving cycle. Sometimes the light stays on and the truck runs rough the entire time. Other times, the light will come on, go off, come on, go off, etc. I bought a code scanner and it gave me a "No Codes" reading. I just changed the fuel filter and air filter last week thinking that may be the problem, but it still happens. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Darren 2001 F350, 7.3 L Turbo Diesel, Crew Cab Automatic Transmission My truck: 2001 F250 w/7.3 automatic 4WD This is an old post, but they are my symptoms exactly except mine just started two days ago. The SES light came on and the truck sputtered a little on my way home and then shut off twice while backing into the drive--my normal routine. I drove it again today -- 10 miles into town, job site, errands, and back home with minimum 12 start/stop/starts. It ran great, no trouble starting, but the light stayed on all day. I've just done the ohm tests and here are my numbers. G G I I -- I I G G passenger side 0.1 9.4 3.7 3.9 3.7 3.8 0.3 0.2 driver side 0.2 0.3 3.3 3.2 3.5 3.4 0.3 46.4 As the I to C Ohm readings are within limits (mentioned by Chris) the shuttering and cutting out are curious to me, so that is question #1--??? And then, are the "out of wack" glow plug Ohm readings what could be causing the SES light to come on? |
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