There's one flat connector on the inboard, center of each valve cover. Here's the outside connector with a red arrow, and the inside connector with a blue arrow. The valve cover sits on the rubber gasket between these two connectors.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...248361.520.390

Here's what the outside connector looks like when unplugged (thanks to Greg for these pics)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1301680625


The flat pins on the top portion of the picture show the pass thru connector that you will be checking with your ohm meter. The lower half of this picture shows what the connector itself looks like.

rough running, shakes, etc.
 

2002 F350 w/7.3, running really rough, but runs. Shakes like a bad road, and a slight acceleration (barely touching the pedal) is the time is is the worst.

Didn't take of the valve covers yet, but did crawl up there on a piece of plywood and remove the plugs from the valve covers and used an ohm meter to get the readings that were posted, oh, about 14 pages ago or so.

Driver side:
front to back, 9 pins
g___g___ i ___ i ___ c___ i ___ i ___ g___ g
3.__ 3._ .6 ___.6___n/a__1.___0____0___ 3.6

Pass. Side:
Front to back, 9 pins
g___g___i____i____c____i_____i____g____g
3.__3.___.6__.6___n/a__0____0____0____0

So it looks like 3 injectors and 3 glow plugs test outside range.
All at the same end of the connectors (towards firewall).

I got the above readings by laying on plywood above the motor, just taking the 2 connectors off. Did not have to remove any other component or hose or hose clamp.

Now I will take the valve covers off and check inside, as was recommended. If glow plugs or injectors are still registering bad, then I guess I need to change those while I'm in there.

Can anybody recommend a video or tutorial for changing the injectors or glow plugs, things to watch out for, and what component brands to get?

Autozone, Advanced Auto, OReilly's, and Napa are all pretty close.

FIXED--new style ford connector + different quarter method
 

OK, both sides are fixed now, everything reads right on an ohm meter and it it running smooth, starting easier too. This is what I did:

Driver's side was fixed using quarter ground as previously recommended. First attached picture is the 2 quarters, ground for the fix, next to a 6" scale so you can see the size:

My passenger side UVCH connector was broken, so I needed a new under-valve-cover-harness. The new Ford harness is different than original design (see 2nd picture for part number on box). To solve the latch problem, they added a post under each side of the latch. This reduced the unsupported length of the latch.

The original quarter-fix now won't work, because a quarter will not go in all the way--it hits the new post supports.


You can trust the new support posts to fix the problem and leave the quarter out, if you wish to. I'm a belt-and-suspenders-where-possible kind of guy so I modified the quarter some more so it will fit in with the new connector.
The 3rd attached picture shows a quarter with 2 notches added to fit between the new support posts.


Last picture is of the modified quarter being test-fit into the new-style harness connector. If you look close, you can see how it fits in between the posts.


All is well and it runs really smooth now, no more shake and the P1316 engine error code is no longer there!

A Big Thanks to all the people who posted solutions I could follow!

Help
 

OK so my truck started to do the shake of death when i was driving it home one night. next day worked fine then did it again. So after reading the 1st 5 pages of this post did the quarter trick on both sides.. No more rock of death. :-jammin then a few nights ago when pulling around 5k i felt something funny and then it felt like it was not going to shift, then hard shift, then loss of power.. no rock of death just can not get over 45-50mph. if i shut off the truck and let it sit then start it up we are back to normal. I have also noticed that it is not doing this unless its 100+ outside or i have been driving for over 50mins.

Also it is throwing a check engine light that no one so far can read but it is not giving it most of the time.

If anyone can help me im in need of it. This is my work truck and i am having to get my workers to come get me in the morning..:'(

My buddy's truck was doing the same exact thing. I had AE hooked up and couldn't find the problem for the life of me. Then about an hour into it I asked him when was the last time he changed the oil. He said he was due for a change. Problem solved.

Btw Welcome to FTE!

I'll give it a try.

maybe a different code reader
 

The less expensive code scanners recognize all the codes common to all vehicles, but maybe not all the codes used by the manufacturer for specific vehicles. I bought the most expensive one that O'Reilly's had in stock, about $300, and it reads all the Ford codes so far, and will read ABS codes that other scanners don't pick up as well. Just saying, check what the scanner can do that you are using/borrowing.

Also, the missing problem is gone from my truck, after the post above, and it is running on all cylinders. I still had occasional shake-of-death symptoms, so looked into it further. The night before my long trip, pressed for time, I had Jiffy Lube change my oil. As part of the service, they checked the tire pressure and lowered my front tires to 45 psi because that is what the door label said. That caused the shake-of-death I was still experiencing on my trip. I keep the front at 60 psi and the rattle/shake that happens at speed, that starts as one wheel goes over a different bump than the other.

There is a Ford service bulletin about the tire inflation, and several people claim their was some angles wrong in the suspension for the solid axles, and that some lift kits actually correct the angles. I'm not in a market for a lift kit, but keeping the front tires up to 60 seems to stop the shake/rattle I was getting.

There is a couple of good You-Tube videos taken buy a car along side a guy's truck that show the shimmy that results.
Worth searching for "Ford rattle of death" and watching it.

I related that because that was the ultimate cause of my problems (after I got the "missing" taken care of by the quarters).

I don't think your problem sounds like it is suspension related since nobody else is talking about the cool-down needed to restart and continue.

Maybe getting access to a better code reader would help to get the code the check engine light is telling you about. Locally, Autozone will read codes for you for free (hoping you will buy the parts there, of course).

You probably wasted your money on the code reader. At least for your psd. Auto Engenuity is the pretty popular for our trucks. Clay in my signature sells them.

The codes from the ABS should be generic OBDII codes, which most scanners should read. The issue we have is the 7.3 diesel engine was designed as a medium duty truck engine and therefore did not meet OBDII requirements. To be sure, unplug your ICP sensor and start the truck. The CEL will come on and you should see a P1280 code.

If the CEL comes on and you don't see that code, then you will likely not see other engine specific codes.

I wasn't aware of any door panels that said 45 psi, but I agree that is too low.


There are several videos on Youtube that show the "death rattle", but they are for the 05 and newer trucks when they changed the front suspension to coils instead of leaf springs.

Does this issue occur on the 2003 model? I saw info that said the clip had been changed on the late 2002 and 2003 7.3.

My 2003 F250 is showing all these symptoms. Will do all the tests this weekend to verify.

Later trucks did have an updated harness, however there still have been some that worked loose.

2002 7.3L Excursion
 

I have this problem occurring again, at least its behaving the same.
Passenger side bank is not running.
Checked the under valve covering wiring harness connection and it was tight, the way I left it when I fixed it last time (2 years ago). So it doesn't sem to be the connector.

Any ideas on what may be causing this?
Could it be a single bad injector causing the IDM to turn off the pass bank?
Somebody else mentioned an injector solenoid being bad, causing the bank to go out. Is there a single injector solenoid for each bank? I thought each injector was a solenoid?

Thanks very much, Sean.
http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...2/confused.gif

Each injector has it's own solenoid. Yes, if the IDM detects a bad solenoid, it will shut down that entire bank. Have you ohmed the injectors yet to try and determine if any are reading different?

2002 7.3L Excursion
 

Chris,

The resistances were:
Front GPlug GPlug 3.12 3.15 3.09 3.20 GPlug GPlug Back

I should have mentioned the problem is intermittent. Although a fluke at this point if it works (on all 8 cylinders).

Thanks again!

The problem with intermittent issues is, unless you test it when it's acting up, you likely won't find what's causing the problem. Next time you take it apart be sure to inspect closely for burnt or loose pins in any of the connectors. Also keep those ohm numbers handy for comparison if you get a chance to test it later when it's acting up.