Well thanks for the info here, pickup has had an internment miss and was finally able to catch it while acting up. Loose connection drivers side valve cover easy and quick repair and not even worried when acted up since I read this before it did. Great info on here.

Great thread here with ton of info. and support.

I haven't read though if one can experience this loss of power and "missing" without having the SES light ever come on?

I have a 2003 EX with 7.3 and it just doesn't feel like it is running right. I have noticed and a couple of my buddies have commented that it sounds like it is missing. Also doesn't seem to have the power and/or acceleration that it should. I called a shop today and described the problem to them and they told me that being a 2003 it is due to have the UVCH's replaced. Gave me a starting estimate of $620.

Thanks to everyone here, I will test it myself and if indicated I will attempt the repair myself as well. Couldn't/wouldn't attempt without you all on this forum!! :-drink

Thanks,
Tom

The way I tested mine was to get my lovely wifey to sit in the truck with it running, I unplugged the drivers side plug first, it ran the same.. unplugged the pass side, stalled right away.

Drivers took me only a couple hours, never tacked the pass side yet but will before spring.

If you decide to test it the way I did, be careful, I loosened the plugs and used a wooden extension to "pull" it out of the plug since I wasnt sure how much current was going through there and had the wifey shut it off while I replugged that side in and prepared to test the other side before restarting.

A local ford dealer can test things for you too. I went into mine and paid $100 to get it hooked up and they were able to test fuel pressure, numerous other checks on the motor/injectors and provided me with a printout of their findings.

Are you loosing any power due to leaky up pipes or manifolds?

I am going to be replacing my up pipes and also removing my manifolds to either grind down or add a gasket as I am still loosing power due to this now.

Good info as usual........I will check some of those other possibilities.

Did you have the SES light on when you were having issues?

My light only came on when it was working really bad.. Mine seemed to be at 80% power all the time, but at other times its like it lost contact for a few minutes on that side and felt like I was driving a 8 cyl engine with 4 plug wires missing.

2001 7.3L F350, Service Engine Soon, truck shakes
 

Chris,

I am new to this forum and I am experiencing the same symptoms that you describe on this thread. I am very interested in your quarter method, but have one question - are you not worried that it will become dislodged somehow and all of a sudden it will be bouncing around in the cylinder head?

Once again, thanks for the pictures and information - this is great.

BTW, I am in Keller, TX and I travel down I35 south to the Hill Country quite often. Us Texans have to stick together!

Thanks,

Russ

Welcome to the forum Russ.

No way for the quarter to come loose. its surrounded by plastic and by the valve pan itself.

I recently did my second side, and decided to check my other side again since I was this far into it. The other quarter was as tight as the day it was put in.

There is a thread on here where the 50 cent mod failed according the poster. The quarter was just gone. There is no explanation for it. I used the Ford OEM plastic wedges..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...od-failed.html

Read that thread, but I dont see anyway possible it moved unless his bottom clip was broken or cracked....?

Welcome to the Forum Russ. If you have any doubts, play with it a little before you button it back up. If you don't like the quarter, don't leave it in there.

The quarter slides down inside the connector. It cannot slide out the bottom because the bottom is closed up. It cannot slide out the sides due to the shape of the connector compared to the size of the quarter. The only two ways for it to come out is from the top where you slide it in, but once you put the valve cover back on, that part is taken care of. The only other way I know the quarter can come out is if the plastic connector breaks. And the most likely way to break the connector is when you're messing with it. If you don't break it, you should be fine.

I've had my quarters in for over 100,000 miles and have put them in a few other trucks with no issues. If you don't like the idea, Ford does sell plastic shims that do the same thing (they don't come out either)

Pics please
 

Chris,

Do you or anyone else have some pictures of the wiring piece that we are suppose to check the ohms on the outside of the valve covers to see if the it is on the driver side or passenger side? I am going to test mine tomorrow and want to make sure that I test the right thing before I take the covers.

Thanks,

Russ

I just unplugged each side on mine til I found out what was bad.

I unplugged the drivers - started fine.. replugged it back in, unplugged the pass side, stalled right away.

Ripped open the drivers side and repaired.

Thanks PEI - I guess what I am asking is what wires are we talking about? I assume that they are above the valve covers, right? Please advise.

Thanks

Russ

If your testing them to find which connector is bad. You could have the valve cover off almost before you get them tested and you will still have to remove the valve cover. Drivers side is a little easier but once you get the intercooler tubing out of the way the passenger side is not bad.

Hi Russ,

Yes, its the plugin directly above the valve cover.. I loosed the clip on mine, had wifey start the truck and unplugged it, then shut the truck off, plugged the first in tight and did the other side.

1L243 - I mean the main UVC connector, not the seperate injector wires. This unplugs the whole bank. Easy way to see if you have a VERY loose or off UVC connector before you pull the cover off.

Advice: Make sure you check for boost leaks afterwards. Wouldnt hurt to spray the inside of the boots when you put them back on with hairspray or spray adhesive. (I used the spray adhesive) and made the $3. boost detector.